bugsdoc1 wrote:
:?: Where does one get the Torque Wrench you described? 
Snap on truck or fleebay
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| Replacing Impellar https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=693 |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed May 23, 2007 5:26 pm ] |
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24 inch-lbs?? You sure it's in inches? |
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| Author: | mkivbren [ Wed May 23, 2007 5:34 pm ] |
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Positive mike, check your Seloc - for the 5.0 GI. You sneeze on them it's tight! You figure they are just lil 8mm brass screws and your backing the housing up against the o-ring.. Don't want to mash it. Looks like I'll be dropping bank soon for the snap on wrench, need 2 more to complete my collection. The pos craftsman only goes down to 25... |
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| Author: | AlexJ [ Wed May 23, 2007 8:32 pm ] |
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Thanks J. |
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| Author: | mkivbren [ Wed May 23, 2007 8:49 pm ] |
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bugsdoc1 wrote: :?: Where does one get the Torque Wrench you described?
Snap on truck or fleebay
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed May 23, 2007 11:48 pm ] |
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Wow, nothing on a boat should be designed for that light a torque IMO. Good information. |
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| Author: | mkivbren [ Thu May 24, 2007 7:18 am ] |
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I added either loctite, sealant, or never-seize to about every bolt I removed. This should have been done at the factory IMO. Everything was in pretty good shape though - considering the environment. A little blue loctite is a good insurance policy... |
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| Author: | scottmph [ Thu May 24, 2007 1:22 pm ] |
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jvalich wrote: Be very very careful about tightning the small screws. I broke on off on my port engine. It's not leaking but I will have to deal with it at the next impeller change. I would remove the pump and see if you can't get a replacement o-ring. Any generic one shoul;d work fine as it's not exposed to any organic solvents or strong acid which would require viton.
Tip - Treat small bolts like I do when working on race bike, I use a 1/4" drive, have not broken a bolt in a long time.. learn that from a cycle mechnic |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Thu May 24, 2007 2:30 pm ] |
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mkivbren wrote: I added either loctite, sealant, or never-seize to about every bolt I removed. This should have been done at the factory IMO. Everything was in pretty good shape though - considering the environment. A little blue loctite is a good insurance policy...
I find that just about every bolt & screw on a boat should have *something* on it, depending on what it does, what it's exposed to, how often it needs to be removed, the risks involved if it were to loosen, etc., etc. One of those things that would jump the price of the boat WAY up for labor if it were done at the factory, but that's a crummy excuse. Then, we'd also have endless threads about "What lube did they use on the XYZ screw connecting the widget to the muffler fluid filter?" |
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| Author: | mkivbren [ Fri May 25, 2007 10:55 am ] |
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haha, very true. But they did (oddly enough) coat all of the plugs that go into the risers with what is probably red loctite. Then for the nipples they didn't include anything. Then there was a conflict between the seloc on using sealant on the manifold / riser gasket. The seloc specified using gasket sealer and the Volvo sheet specified NO sealent. I deferred to the volvo install sheet. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Fri May 25, 2007 12:17 pm ] |
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Smart move. Volvo is adamant that no gasket sealer be used on those, and they will NOT cover related parts under warranty if any sealant is discovered there. This has come up a few times on other threads where people found out the hard way. |
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