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 Post subject: Cracked block
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 6:32 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
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The subject says it all. What can I do?


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 6:37 pm 
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Seahorse

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It is cracked up at the top of the block on both sides. 4" cracks. It looks like it could be braized without pulling the motor


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 7:29 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
sounds that and the ps cooler problem are from the same cause, lack of winterizing.
If you want a boat that will be reliable, get a new or rebuild engine, or even a used one. A truck version of the Chevy 350 will work but you may have issues with the fuel pump mounting if its a newer one (newer does not have the mount for the mechanical fuel pump because they had fuel injection with an electric pump). Engines that crack because they were not drained also usually crack internally in the cam valley as well. So forget about fixing that one.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 7:42 pm 
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Seahorse

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But the motor runs like new. No problems other than the leaking block. No water in the oil, and no water getting into the intake (judging by how it runs).


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:18 pm 
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Simply_Irresistable wrote:
But the motor runs like new. No problems other than the leaking block. No water in the oil, and no water getting into the intake (judging by how it runs).


You could do it old style and use Waterglass. But, most likely it will be short lived.
Sodium silicate

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:25 pm 
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Here is a little more on it. I was stupid at 18 and in the service when I froze up my camero 350. Head and block cracked really bad. Old boy across the street in backwoods Oklahoma told me about it and I got another almost 2 years out of it. That was trips back to South Dakota and all. I tore down the motor and could not believe how it worked.

Automotive repair [edit]

Sodium silicate can be used to fill gaps within the head gasket. Commonly used on aluminum alloy cylinder heads, which are sensitive to thermally induced surface deflection, and can be caused by many things including head-bolt stretching, deficient coolant delivery, high cylinder head pressure, over-heating, vapor-lock, etc.

"Liquid glass" (sodium silicate) is added to the system through the radiator, and allowed to circulate. Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100–105 °C sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a re-melt temperature above 810 °C.

A sodium silicate repair will last two years, sometimes longer. The repair occurs rapidly, and symptoms disappear instantly. This repair only works when the sodium silicate reaches its "conversion" temperature at 100–105 °C. Contamination of engine oil is a serious possibility in situations in which a coolant-to-oil leak is present. Sodium silicate (glass particulate) contamination of lubricants is detrimental to their function.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:28 pm 
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Make sure you change your thermostat afterwards though. Would be great for manifolds if you had a way to contain it long enough.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 12:01 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun May 19, 2013 10:04 pm
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Thanks for all the help guys. My stepdad had this boat from brand new in 89 until he passed in 2009. Kept it mint. Last summer, I decided to get it started it in the driveway and didn't have a clue about winterization. Decided to get it out this year and use it, this is the outcome. I know it's stupid but I was clueless. Live and learn I guess.


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 12:07 am 
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Seahorse

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I really didn't think freezing is what caused it. I didn't think the motor got hot enough to open the thermostat to let water in the block and push the antifreeze out


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 11:25 am 
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230 Mike
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I know this doesn't help - but in the scheme of things, a new engine is cheap when talking about a boat that didn't cost anything (financially) to acquire. And if the boat is in as good a condition as you say, it's worth doing it.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 1:22 pm 
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It really is a 10/10. I wish I knew how to get pics up on here. You guys would go nuts over this one.


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 4:49 pm 
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They are nice boats and the hull design was very good in terms of stability and safety in the water. The main reason I restored mine was that I liked the secure feeling that I got in that boat even in LI Sound. If the boat was run in the fall and froze over the winter unfortunately the engine is not the only thing that could be damaged, the exhaust manifolds/risers, the front circulating pump, and the ps cooler we discussed before all can be cracked and in need of replacement. The manifolds get water straight from the thermo housing so even if they had AF in them when you started it as soon as the raw water entered the AF would be pushed out. The engine, well its possible that it had mostly AF in it but it could have been diluted enough to freeze.

When I winterize mine, I drain everything manually and then back fill the engine and manifolds with -100 AF with corrosion inhibitors, I feel that this is the best and safest way. The engine has very little corrosion inside from what I have been able to see doing repairs (thermostats, front water pump). For sure if its in that good shape, its worth an engine repower.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 5:42 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Lake Perry, Table Rock
Simply_Irresistable wrote:
It really is a 10/10. I wish I knew how to get pics up on here. You guys would go nuts over this one.


viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1877

I use photobucket.com, but there are several sites that work the same way.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 6:27 pm 
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A little off topic but interesting all the same
Quote:
"Liquid glass" (sodium silicate) is added to the system through the radiator, and allowed to circulate. Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100–105 °C sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a re-melt temperature above 810 °C.


Sodium silicate is what was poured into the oil to seize the engines for the cash for clunkers program. Broke my heart to hear all those engine take their last breath of air before going CLUNK :(

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked block
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 8:06 pm 
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Bliss36 wrote:
A little off topic but interesting all the same
Quote:
"Liquid glass" (sodium silicate) is added to the system through the radiator, and allowed to circulate. Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100–105 °C sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a re-melt temperature above 810 °C.


Sodium silicate is what was poured into the oil to seize the engines for the cash for clunkers program. Broke my heart to hear all those engine take their last breath of air before going CLUNK :(


Your right! You put some on the lube side before it's heated and ouch.

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1992 Baja 38 Special Twin 502 Mags

03 Stingray 3.0
88 261 Liberator 460 King Cobras
95 Bayliner 1850 3.0
77 Fiber Form 20ft 350/385hp
70 Wescraft 1800 SS 455 Jet

Lead, Follow, or get the Hell out of the Way!


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