www.iFourWinns.com

Nice Job! Another triumph over the 'no user serviceable parts inside' mentality of today's manufacturers.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks for the help I ordered it and a new impeller since the old one was three years old.

_________________
'96 200 Horizon 5.8l VP/SX

I need to replace the pulleys on my engine since they are rusty just like yours and I have seen the side of my brand new belt beginning to get white after only 3 hrs of use. Did you get to change those in your engine and if so do yuo have any pointers as to who has the really good replacement parts. I was thinking murray's performance parts down in South florida but not sure if they will have what I need. I want to pick them up in stainless steel so I won't have to replace them in the future. Chime in if you have suggestions guys.

That is more or less a chronic problem with inboards, the thing that you can do is take off the belts, sand the rust off as best you can and then coat the rusted areas with rust converter, let that set up and then follow with a couple of coats of Rustolem rusty metal primer and Rustolem paint. I've fixed a lot of rust on cars here in the land of salted roads in winter and salt air in summer. The rust converter really helps. It makes the rust inert which is important.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I just had to replace my pump bearing and seal. Not sure if the bearing went first damaging the seal or the other way around. Anyway the bearing was rusted and wobbly causing water to run out the back weep holes. When I pulled the brass housing the bearing was frozen in the housing so I had to use a drift and chisel to drive the bearing out enough so I could get a pilot bearing puller in to grab the bearing. Then I used a slide hammer to get the bearing out.
I also was told by the local boat repair place that the bearing/housing was not serviceable and a new assembly would be $450. I told him I know that was what the manufacturer said but I was willing to try replacing the bearing myself to save $400. I got the bearing and seal on amazon for $45. No problems with the reassembly and it seems to be working well.
Thanks for the great writeup.
Rob

_________________
Anything Worth Doing Is Worth Overdoing
2001 Horizon 180

Great.
Did you use Freeze and/or heat to put the bearing back on the shaft, or did you use a press or hammer?
Ray

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

I put the pulley and shaft portion in the freezer and used a block of wood to tap the bearing/housing over the shaft. It went on with just a little tap with a hammer. To install the bearing into the brass housing I used locktite on the outer bearing race then tapped it in using a block of wood. Then lightly peened the brass housing to capture the bearing.

_________________
Anything Worth Doing Is Worth Overdoing
2001 Horizon 180

Very good. The procedure worked again.

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

Many thanks to rpengr for this highly useful post.

I wanted to add to it from my experience.

I have a 2004 H230 with a 5.7 GXI-F. It has a serpentine belt instead of v-belts. I don't know if that is original equipment. My pump part # is 21214599.

First, here are the options I found (pricing as of September 2014):

1. New pump from Volvo Penta dealer: $400 plus tax and shipping

2. New pump from on-line retailer: $280 on ebay with free shipping was the cheapest I found.

3. Used but rebuilt pump: about $200 on ebay

4. Get pump rebuilt: ebay seller 123gojoe offers to rebuild your pump for $160

5. Full rebuild kit: ebay seller 123gojoe also sells a complete rebuild kit (bearing, seal, circlip, impeller, o-ring, glycerin, and screws) for about $80. You do the work.

6. Buy parts: if you're willing to put in some time you can probably save a few dollars more sourcing the parts elsewhere, but the total savings will be small so either your time must be worth very little, or you'd better enjoy the process.

7. Just the seal: the seal is pretty easy to come by (google the part number: 827247) My local Volvo Penta dealer had it in stock (but still told me there are no repair parts for the pump).

For my pump, it turned out my bearing was in good shape, so I'm just going to replace the seal.

My pump was a little different that rpengr's. Instead of the bearing being held in by peening, there is a large circlip. This is a view from the backside, after the pump was pulled off the pulley/shaft:



Because of this, both the bearing and housing must be pulled off the shaft together, and then the circlip can be removed, and the bearing driven out. While I didn't remove mine, I did come across a nice trick for doing it. The problem is there isn't an easy place to drive against to move the bearing out. The trick is to use L-shaped allen wrenches, placed through the shaft hole against the bearing, arranged back-to-back, and then driven lightly with a hammer a couple of taps; rotate about 90 degrees; tap tap; repeat. A picture should make it clear:



I tried it, and it worked great. I was afraid the wrenches would buck and twist all over, but they were pretty stable.

I hope this helps and adds to the collective wisdom.

_________________

2004 Horizon 230
Volvo/Penta 5.7 DuoProp

The key is regular inspection. The seal fails well before the bearing fails as a result. Keep an eye out for unexpected corrosion, especially on engines used in saltwater. In my case, there was no water in the bilge, but the paint was bubbling on the pump/ pulley and surrounding areas; tit was spotted early enough, the bearing was OK.

I love it, what a clever bunch of do it yourselfers keeping boating affordable....
We have the Volvo experts (you guys) the Merc men and then there is the lonely OMC crew ( yours truly).....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Don't be too lonely. I had my OMC for 18 years. That's what let me into a Volvo Penta, which happened to be in a Four Winns... a brand that was previously unknown to me. I'm happy I got it.

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

I'm keeping it as long as I can get parts...

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Nice DIY. I referenced it to swap out the pump bearing on the 3.0L Penta in my '06 Stingray. However, I just have to wonder if the OP's bearing housing wasn't missing something... namely the circlip that holds in the bearing? From the pics it looks like there's a groove, possibly for one, in the housing, and the marks around the face of his housing don't look to me like peen marks to keep in the original bearing (as they don't even go into the inner bevel), but just cast marks like most of ours have? And if it were peened in, how would the bearing have even come out?

Anyway... maybe a PO had swapped the bearing once before and never reinstalled the original c-clip... or maybe they're just a bit different on the V8s? My bearings, both stock and replacement, also seem to sit a bit deeper in the housing (which looks to be identical to the one in the pic, which can be misleading), and not practically even with the rim of it. I'd personally be a bit hard pressed to trust Locktite/bearing retainer and a peen job to hold my bearing in there... although it was admittedly a PITA to get it to come out. I really wish I'd read on and seen the allen wrench suggestion added further in, as after slowly wedging it out from the side holes as far as I could with a couple different screwdrivers and a hammer, I put 2 arms of a gear puller through the center hole of the bearing with the lips facing outward under the bearing, screwed the end of the center bolt down tightly against the center of the 2 arms (essentially locking them out and under it), and then put a socket thru the seal side against the bottom of the arms and hammered it out the rest of the way. It ultimately worked pretty well (as another option), but the allen wrenches are pretty ingenious, too!

Hey... whatever works!

In my case, there was definitely no groove for a circlip. That dark ring at the top of the bore is just the beginning of the chamfer. The picture with the installed bearing show the bearing almost flush to the top of the housing, and it was definitely pressed all the way in. The original bearing was press-fit into the housing, and required the gear puller to remove the housing from the bearing...which was also press-fit onto the shaft. Fortunately for me, the housing pulled off the bearing with less force than the bearing pulling off the shaft. So my sequence was to pull just the housing first, then the bearing second (in both cases, the bearing puller was pushing on the shaft).

Other years or models may be made with the circlip, which makes more sense. It's rare to have two press-fits on one bearing.

Ray

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings