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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:52 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:09 am
Posts: 14
When I have water in the bilge, the bilge pump kicks in (or I can manually turn it on) and I can hear it running. It was working fine but as of a few days ago nothing is shooting out outlet on the hull. Does that mean it burned up?

Where can I look up specs on something like this? Does it have a 3/4" hose connection? There are a lot of cheap ones on ebay, is there a brand used in four winns I should get to plug and play replace this one?

Looking under my engine it looks about like this but I don't know much about bilge pumps.
Image

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:08 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
There's no such thing as a "plug and play" bilge pump. Unscrew the old one, undo hose, cut the wires. Screw new one in , splice in the 3 wires, connect output hose. The wires are color coded. Ground, power from switch. Power from battery. Impossible to mess up unless you're color blind.

There's 2 kinds of automatic bilge pumps. One that has a float switch (external or internal) and one that tests for resistance every few minutes. The latter suck. They drain your battery.

Go on walmart, use the ship to store option and pick this up. It's what I used in my H180.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Sahar ... C/14150751

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:22 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
You sound new to boats. There's one thing you need to understand about all boats. The brand of the boat is just who made the fiberglass hull, design layout, windshield, and the boat's wiring (but not the engine wiring). Everything else like gauges, motor, drive, cup holders, bilge pumps, hinges, latches, port holes, switches, virtually everything else.. is generic parts purchased from 3rd party manufacturers and not specific to your boat. They are nothing like cars. There's zero reason to ever goto a four winns dealer for parts unless it's for something fiberglass or a windshield.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:30 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:09 am
Posts: 14
ric wrote:
You sound new to boats. There's one thing you need to understand about all boats. The brand of the boat is just who made the fiberglass hull, design layout, windshield, and the boat's wiring (but not the engine wiring). Everything else like gauges, motor, drive, cup holders, bilge pumps, hinges, latches, port holes, switches, virtually everything else.. is generic parts purchased from 3rd party manufacturers and not specific to your boat. They are nothing like cars. There's zero reason to ever goto a four winns dealer for parts unless it's for something fiberglass or a windshield.


Got it, thanks.

Why would you recommend a $70 pump when there are seemingly quite decent $20 ones?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:25 am 
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hughk wrote:
ric wrote:
You sound new to boats. There's one thing you need to understand about all boats. The brand of the boat is just who made the fiberglass hull, design layout, windshield, and the boat's wiring (but not the engine wiring). Everything else like gauges, motor, drive, cup holders, bilge pumps, hinges, latches, port holes, switches, virtually everything else.. is generic parts purchased from 3rd party manufacturers and not specific to your boat. They are nothing like cars. There's zero reason to ever goto a four winns dealer for parts unless it's for something fiberglass or a windshield.


Got it, thanks.

Why would you recommend a $70 pump when there are seemingly quite decent $20 ones?


Because if your bilge pump isn't working, it could be the float switch or the pump. There's ways to test if you wish, but the one I posted is 750gph. The factory one is 500. Pumps more water and is self contained with an internal float switch. In all reality your boat should really have a 1100gph bilge pump at a minimum but that requires upgrading to 1in hose and drilling the hole in the side of your boat bigger with a bigger thru-hull. That's a Four Winns mistake, a large one. Search for posts where people almost sunk their boat cause of it.

500gph is good for rain water that's about it. In an emergency situation where you're having waves splash over from a storm, or taking on water somehow... Something that small is just as bad as not having one. In a perfect world your boat would have two bilge pumps of large size.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 8:10 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
That little 500 gph pump the boat comes with honestly is a piece of crap. Throw that in the garbage and get a Rule 1100 gph at least and if you can find a Sure-Bail switch they are very good.
A bilge pump is a critical piece of safety equipment. You really should have 2.
Even on a small boat. As a back up I have a big Rule 2000gph hooked up to alligator clamps and a bilge hose. If my main pump ever fails I can hook that up to one if the batts and hang the hose over the gunnel. All boats should have more than one battery and more than one bilge pump.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 8:52 am 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
I hate to say this, but I agree with Rick. Lou always.

Me, relpace the the 500GPH with the 750. Than add another 750 pump. As Lou said as a back up! It cheap Ins. and could save your boat. If you have a dual battery set up, hard wire the 2nd pump to the 2nd battery to share the load.

What people forget too. Is that 750GPH pump and all pumps are rated at 0 hight. Now if it needs to pump UP, say at 2'. Now the pump needs to work harder and the rate goes down, say to 600gph. My numbers may be off a little, but this does happen. In other words, the higher it pumps, more the rate goes down.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 9:58 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
1100gph is what it *should* have. It's very easy to enlarge the through-hull, buy a new through-hull fitting. Make sure the hose connected to the bilge pump has a loop in it. Without a loop, in rough water it can act as siphon and put water back IN the boat!

Image

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:26 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
Not to beat a dead horse but no amount of money is too much for a bilge pump when you take a big wave over the bow, or if a cooling hose fails, the inpeller will pump a ton of water in that little bilge before you know it. Go back at your vid of the freeze pushed out core plugs and see how fast water will come in. Keeping electrical power (dual batteries) and pumping capacity (extra emergency pump) are not options they are necessities. If the bilge of that boat is too small for a second pump permenantly installed then you do as I said above, rig up an emergency pump you can drop in the bilge and hook up to one of the batts....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 12:23 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:09 am
Posts: 14
OK got it. I went ahead and purchased the top selling bilge pump on amazon, it was a 750 gph auto that uses a 3/4 inch hose, and was $29 shipped. Hopefully it will do the job. Thanks for all the input!!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B0L ... WAZEF2L4T3


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:22 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
ric wrote:
Go on walmart, use the ship to store option and pick this up. It's what I used in my H180.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Sahar ... C/14150751


This got me thinking about upgrading my Attwood V450 pump on my Horizon 180RS and found this pump for sale, here in Oz:

http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/prod ... 1487#Cross

Is Rule-Mate deemed a reputable brand?

_________________
2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 7:10 am 
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deafwish wrote:
Is Rule-Mate deemed a reputable brand?

Yes, very.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 7:48 am 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
deafwish wrote:
ric wrote:
Go on walmart, use the ship to store option and pick this up. It's what I used in my H180.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Sahar ... C/14150751


This got me thinking about upgrading my Attwood V450 pump on my Horizon 180RS and found this pump for sale, here in Oz:

http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/prod ... 1487#Cross

Is Rule-Mate deemed a reputable brand?


I have seen that one under another name for a lot less.

Go to Defender.com


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:07 am 
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Location: Melbourne Australia
Hey Deafwish, Rule is a very good brand, a lot of their gear is used on sail boats, and they don't put cr@p on.

This is the page for the defender bilge pumps. Looks reasonably priced and might even be cheaper than BCF even with freight?
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?pa ... id=2234227

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Mark
Melbourne
Australia

Boats:
Current: 2004 FW 190
2001 Mastercraft X5
1998 Malibu Response
1999 Sea Ray 180
17 ft Scimitar Barefoot (200hp Yamaha)
16ft Scimitar Ski (Yamaha 115)
1988 Ski Nautique ( Called Ski Antique)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 10:03 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:09 am
Posts: 14
I received the new auto pump I purchased from amazon. OK I'm not completely incompetent but getting to the old pump and separate float was a big pain in the backside, because they are directly under the motor and very hard to reach. I was barely able to reach and unclip the pump from the thing that holds it to the floor and after reading a bit here and on amazon comments I decided to try cleaning it out. Direct full pressure garden hose water spray at it, the slotted holder screwed to the floor, and the auto pump. Tried turning it on not in the base and it worked fine. Clipped into the base, made noise but no pumping. So, more garden hose, lots of garden hose, and now everything seems to be working fine. The new pump was cheap enough and I like the 750 gph, but to remove the old one and put the new one in would be a big pain in the backside, so I simply put the working old pump back in and called it a night.


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