Apart from undoing the 2 hydraulic connections, I've removed the rams several times ( for painting on antifouling paint). If you're asking about changing the whole ram, it's pretty easy. If you mean changing the internal seals, then it is not as easy ( I'm not sure the seal kits are still available from VP, the instructions on how to change them are in the '99/ "WT" MY shop manual, but VP may prefer just to sell you a whole unit!).
Removal:
Support the weight of the drive when it is in the down position.
Remove the bolt holding on the ground cable.
Unscrew the hydraulic connections, discard the "O" rings.
Remove the plastic caps, "E" clips and washers at each end of the ram.
The ram should now just slide off the 2 pivot rods.
If it doesn't, a soft drift/ mallet can be used to drive the pivot rods out of the bores/ in towards the outdrive body. Whilst you're at it, you might want to remove the rods completely and coat then and the internal bores in the outdrive with waterproof grease, to preclude the chance of any corrosion.
Refitting;
The reverse of removal, using new "O" rings on the hydraulic connections and waterproof grease on all the pivot points/ washers/ clips. You might want to source some new "E" clips, as they can break sometimes especially if a single screwdriver has been used to remove them. Don't forget to reconnect the ground cable.
Bleeding (out the air, not your knuckles!)
With the drive fully down, fill the reservoir to max with fluid.
Take the drive up is short steps, filling the reservoir close to max each time
When it is fully up, fill to max.
Cycle it down and back up 5 times to dispel any air, keeping an eye on the fluid level, finally top reservoir to MAX.
Graham
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So Im wondering if I get the one shipped from ebay, and install it, it would just be a 1 hour job. I dont know though... the thought of buying a used one and having it leak too kind of gets me nervous.