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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 5:26 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
24 inch-lbs?? You sure it's in inches?

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 5:34 pm 
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AGE < LOA

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Positive mike, check your Seloc - for the 5.0 GI. You sneeze on them it's tight! You figure they are just lil 8mm brass screws and your backing the housing up against the o-ring.. Don't want to mash it. Looks like I'll be dropping bank soon for the snap on wrench, need 2 more to complete my collection. The pos craftsman only goes down to 25...


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 8:32 pm 
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email admin your custom rank

Joined: Sun May 28, 2006 9:33 pm
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Location: Lake Orion, Michigan
Thanks J.

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 8:49 pm 
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AGE < LOA

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bugsdoc1 wrote:
:?: Where does one get the Torque Wrench you described? :roll:


Snap on truck or fleebay :roll:


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 11:48 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Wow, nothing on a boat should be designed for that light a torque IMO. Good information.

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 7:18 am 
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AGE < LOA

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I added either loctite, sealant, or never-seize to about every bolt I removed. This should have been done at the factory IMO. Everything was in pretty good shape though - considering the environment. A little blue loctite is a good insurance policy...


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 1:22 pm 
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I fix stuff

Joined: Wed Jun 21, 2006 3:40 pm
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Location: Euless (TX)
jvalich wrote:
Be very very careful about tightning the small screws. I broke on off on my port engine. It's not leaking but I will have to deal with it at the next impeller change. I would remove the pump and see if you can't get a replacement o-ring. Any generic one shoul;d work fine as it's not exposed to any organic solvents or strong acid which would require viton.


Tip - Treat small bolts like I do when working on race bike, I use a 1/4" drive, have not broken a bolt in a long time.. learn that from a cycle mechnic

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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 2:30 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
mkivbren wrote:
I added either loctite, sealant, or never-seize to about every bolt I removed. This should have been done at the factory IMO. Everything was in pretty good shape though - considering the environment. A little blue loctite is a good insurance policy...


I find that just about every bolt & screw on a boat should have *something* on it, depending on what it does, what it's exposed to, how often it needs to be removed, the risks involved if it were to loosen, etc., etc. One of those things that would jump the price of the boat WAY up for labor if it were done at the factory, but that's a crummy excuse. Then, we'd also have endless threads about "What lube did they use on the XYZ screw connecting the widget to the muffler fluid filter?"

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
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1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2007 10:55 am 
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AGE < LOA

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haha, very true. But they did (oddly enough) coat all of the plugs that go into the risers with what is probably red loctite. Then for the nipples they didn't include anything. Then there was a conflict between the seloc on using sealant on the manifold / riser gasket. The seloc specified using gasket sealer and the Volvo sheet specified NO sealent. I deferred to the volvo install sheet.


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2007 12:17 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Smart move. Volvo is adamant that no gasket sealer be used on those, and they will NOT cover related parts under warranty if any sealant is discovered there. This has come up a few times on other threads where people found out the hard way.

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
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1998 F-150 XLT
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