www.iFourWinns.com

*update!* (see manifold riser pics below)
Finally picked up the Vista! I was just taking a closer look at the motor and noticed rusty water stains from the circ pump down onto the crank pulley. The vista is an 00 and has lived it's life thus far in salt water during the seasons.


first pic is upside down; crank / water pump on top, circ pump on bottom..

looking down on the circ pump..


Also, what is the difference between the water pump on the crank and the circ pump?

Thanks!

Basically, the water pump on the end of the crank sucks in water from the outside and passes it to the engine and exhaust manifolds/ risers, also the fuel cooler on some engines. The recirculation pump on the engine circulates water through the engine, the mix of cold and hot water through the engine being controlled by the thermostat. You'll probably find there is water leaking out of the "weep hole" beneath the circulation pump; due to worn seals and/ or shaft. This results in salt water being thrown everywhere.

I only ran the engine in my '99 boat for one season in salt water after two years use in fresh water before I fitted closed cooling. I also had a circulation pump leak. Part of the FWC kit was a different thermostat/ housing. I was amazed that after only one season in salt water that there was so much rust and debris in the thermostat. It's worth checking the thermostat the same time as you fit a new pump or repair the old one if it's only the seals that have gone. It's going to be difficult to get it apart to get at the seals as there's going to be a lot of rust ( I had to buy a new one in any case as I could,'t get parts in the UK, you might be luckier in the USA). The marine pump is not the same as the automotive one; it has a stainless back plate, not a mild steel one). If you do fit a new one, I'd recommend you check the pulley alignment after fitting it; Mine was very slightly out, I had to use thin spacers between the pulley and boss on the pump shaft to get mine to align property.

While you're at it, it's probably as well to check the impellor in the inlet water pump.

Regards,

Graham

While your tearing things down, in addition to Grahams suggestion about the water pump impeller, I'd also get a set of new gaskets and take the time to pull the exhaust elbows and inspect them. Failure of the exhaust elbows is the leading cause of most engine failures/hydrolocks.

_________________
Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Thanks for all of the advice guys! I intend to replace all of the above, and any other tips are welcome as well So now I need to ask, where is the best place to get these VP parts and the shop manual? Is there anyplace online that offers these parts a bit cheaper then a FW dealer would sell them for?

J,

Are the exhaust elbows located in this 'fiche?

http://www.dougrussell.com for parts.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

28. There are several plugs, etc that seal holes used in the application of some other engine installs. If you have a vacuum check valve on the inside of each elbow, I'd suggest you replace them as well. They are responsible for breaking the vacuum left once the engine has shut off. Volvo had some water injection issues back when and that was the solution. Mine would corrode over time and stop functioning. They are pretty cheap. They should go into the spot where #30 goes on the inside side of the elbow...if you have them.

Also make sure you get gaskets. Volvo gaskets are a coated metal that require no sealant. As a matter of fact, sealant was used by a mechanic on my 248 Vista and Volvo refused any help so I ate the cost of a repower alone.

_________________
Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Thanks so much for the valuable info! I'll def be using new gaskets too, thanks for the heads up. On a side note, the plastic hatch door has a split, and I was quoted $900 for the complete assembly today

Might be making that piece of plastic out of wood or hell, carbon fiber!! They are going to look and see if they can just get the door alone for less $.

I run mine in salt water too and I fould that the thermostats get sticky after 2 seasons, I usually replace them a the beginning of each season. I'd get that leak fixed fast, you don't want salt water leaking in the bilge.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I pulled out the circ pump last night and sure enough, the underside where that weep hole should be was just flaking with rust! I'm happy to say that I'm salt free where I'm at, but I've gotta say I'm impressed how well she held up for her first 6 seasons in the salt water. I'm going to replace the thermostat for sure and probably even the housing because it doesn't look that great inside. I spoke with parts at Doug Russel and they said they typically don't see issues with the manifold's +risers on the volvo's it's the merc's that seem to have problems there. Nonetheless, I'm going to yoink them and inspect them.

Thanks for all the help guys, I've been working all day on her.

Pulled the thermostat, manifold and risers over the weekend. I'm glad I did! The water jackets look like clogged arteries. There was actually evidence of a very slight leakage at the mating surface of one of teh manifold / riser pairs and luckily there is a low spot where the head meets the manifold or I would have probably had some water getting into the head. Caught it in time The thermostat housing is just plain nasty all around. Again this boat was used in the saltwater for 6 seasons but the owners claimed they did use the fresh water flush. All will be replaced with new hopefully this weekend!