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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:41 am 
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Location: Connecticut shore
There are just too many differences between auto vs marine parts that I think it's just best to stay w/ the marine version...yes it's more $$, but the piece of mind AND the safety factors FAR outweigh the add'l cost of marine parts.......especially as a parent- I wouldn't want an explosion to happen because I saved a few dollars on a part for my boat. Boating cost money--if you're not comfortable with that realization then sell your boat!!
Also, there would be insurance issues to deal with if the insurance company finds out you've used an auto carb instead of a marine carb which leaked fuel and exploded! Nope, not me....wouldn't consider it.....also, you devalue your boat by putting in non-marine parts.....who wants to buy a used boat like that? Same thing as an overly modified car---the value in most cases declines! Hot rod anything you want, but you'll only lessen it's value quicker....my .02.

STeve

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 5:07 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
This long dead thread was only awakened by what appears to be a script-generated spam bot. The account of which has been banned.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:10 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:32 pm
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Location: Austin, TX
GM TBI is GM TBI is GM TBI...no magic "Marine Labled" mystic here.

This is old post but this info may be helpful to someone down the road.

CFM Technologies makes/sells its stuff for auto and marine, they sell to Mercruiser, others too. http://marine-performance-parts.com/gmt ... mance.aspx

Check out the "xtreme-fi" store on ebay too. http://stores.ebay.com/Xtremefi?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Now, with that said, you need some "know how" if you tweak a TBI unit's parts as you may have to start messing with the ECM's program too or make matters worse. The same goes for head mods, cam upgrades and so forth, you change the data the computer is looking for you can make your boat not run in a hurry. In addition to modifications and add-on parts to GM TBI units there are many guys that can power-tune your ECM, or sell you a program to do it yourself with a laptop. The WWW is a great place to learn and discover tips/tricks of what others have done and what will work. In addition most good auto parts stores have cross-reference parts books for a reason, you give them your OEM whatever branded # and they can often cross it to another brand.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:38 pm 
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^ That might be spam, but the spam is correct.

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:23 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
Yeah, this notion comes up now and then. Someone's trying to save a buck and thinks it'd be clever to just use car parts on their boat. For a number of things, sure, it'd probably work. But there are often a few details that get left out and then the clever idea turns into a bug hunt trying to figure a way around the missing details.

This was almost worth it in the days before internet searches and online resellers. Now you can search for a decent price a whole helluva lot faster and just get the correct part. No fuss, no muss, and it's here overnight.

As for reprogramming engine control systems, pfft, a great many of these "programmer folks" barely understand how to tweak setups for a car. The way a boat engine gets used has a very different set of parameters than a car (constant loads vs stop/starts). As a result the dodgy programming that barely works in on a car will have no hope of working properly on a boat. Yes, for someone that genuinely knows what they're doing it's certainly possible. But by the time you learn of what's necessary, it'd probably end up being more expensive than just buying the right parts.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:34 pm 
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Well, considering 99% of a Merc/Volvo engine (aside the cooling system, ignition system) is straight automotive. To say you can't use automotive parts isn't correct. The MEFI fuel injection system used on boats is also what's used on GM Performance crate engines sold for automotive use for the last 20 years. To give you an example, the Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI camshaft is just the GM performance camshaft used in the 350 Ramjet crate engine. There's no magical boat tuning parts. That's just what we've been fed all our lives by marine mechanics trying to charge double for something.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:52 pm 
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wkearney99

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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
Did say you can't. Said it doesn't always turn out to be the bargain one might hope to get.

That and I'm sure nobody here has any love lost for marine mechanics and what line they'd try to feed.

If you're willing to do the digging and understand how to work around potential complications then, sure, save a few bucks. Or get a known part and get back in the water.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:56 pm 
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Well common items like starters and alternators... you have to get the marine version to avoid fines and fires. Technically you don't, but I'm not taking a chance. I know people that do.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:27 am 
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Location: Lake St. Clair, Michigan
I just want to add my $.02 to the discussion.....

Last year I was having TBI problems on my Volvo Penta's. Volvo Penta wanted $120 for the idle air control valve. I took the VP part number and cross referenced it to NAPA for $38. SAME exact part down to the stamping on the valves (compared side to side). WHY would I pay $120 for the same part when I can get the same one for $80+ less?!

Of course, ignition protected (distributor cap, alternator) I wouldnt mess around, but what Ive discovered in this thread is that some people arent worried about their retirement and choose (which is fine - their choice) to blow their money on unnecessary items. Whatever, Ric - it is what it is, the people who know better will never change the ones who are 'dead-set' on buying marine stamped parts for 200+% more markup.

What I should do, is start an online marine parts store and target these forums :lol: I'd be rich!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:30 am 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:07 am
Posts: 133
Location: Freeland, Michigan
lubbs220 wrote:
ric wrote:
The ignorance in the boating world is unbelievable. People got sold on the term "marine rated' when all "marine rated" means is you're getting charged 3x more for the exact same piece because the retailer knows you'll pay it.


Although there are some "marine" parts that are interchangeable with auto parts, there are still some that are not compatible with a marine environment. A marine engine is built different than an auto engine based upon the demands put on them (ie. no transmission). I would agree with you for most "bolt on" parts, like the power steering pump. Ric, your point is well made.

I'm not sure if 30-50 hp gains by performance parts are worth the money in boats as it takes alot more for a boat to improve performance than a car... but need to have my injectors serviced anyway, so was thinking about it as long as I had it apart...hmmm.

Thanks for the input so far guys. And Mike, no worries about the "hijack"... the advice still fits for those who may browse this based upon the thread title!


I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have any updates on this topic? I need to pull my injectors to have them serviced/cleaned and was wondering if any of the TBI upgrades mentioned in this post are worth it.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:08 am 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:07 am
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Location: Freeland, Michigan
Update: I did find out my Tb's stock are already the larger bore, have no air horns, and come with the large injectors from the factory. I sent my injectors to witchhunter performance to have them cleaned and tested, and I bought & installed a rebuild kit from SPR performance. The only thing SPR said I might want to do is thin the shafts. I was reluctent to do so, so i didn't.

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