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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:11 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:51 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Lake Norman, Denver, NC
When installing a new filter/separator, do you put anything on the rubber gasket like you do an oil filter?

Thanks.

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1993 Four Winns 210 Horizon
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:21 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:28 pm
Posts: 1387
Location: Kansas City
I would also like to know.

Since I am doing mine same time as the oil change, I rub some oil on the gasket.

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Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 6:56 am
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Location: Starport Marina, Lake Simcoe
I lightly coat the oring with oil. I have never had a leak or issue with it

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:15 pm
Posts: 382
Location: Lake Ontario
Timely thread for me - do you prefill the filter with fuel? I recall reading differring opinions on this. Also, is there an air bleeder valve on the Volvo 5.7GSi?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:45 pm
Posts: 104
weather wrote:
Timely thread for me - do you prefill the filter with fuel? I recall reading differring opinions on this. Also, is there an air bleeder valve on the Volvo 5.7GSi?

Put it on empty. fuel pump will fill it quick. Bleeder valves only on diesiel eng.Just make sure the old gasket is removed


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2010 4:23 pm
Posts: 487
Location: Michigan
Did mine a few weeks back.
A little oil on the seal and put it on empty. No problems.

Hard part was breaking the old one loose. :x

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 12:24 pm
Posts: 176
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Thalasso wrote:
weather wrote:
Timely thread for me - do you prefill the filter with fuel? I recall reading differring opinions on this. Also, is there an air bleeder valve on the Volvo 5.7GSi?

Put it on empty. fuel pump will fill it quick. Bleeder valves only on diesiel eng.Just make sure the old gasket is removed

I would disagree with "Put it on empty" statement. If you can fill it and put it on with out spilling it I would do so. Less chance of getting air in the system and not a good idea to run your pump dry. And you should put a film of oil or lubricant on the gasket o-ring it will make it come off easier the next time you replace it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:10 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:34 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Alberta, CA
I agree with FIZNUKA; the reason the old ones are so hard to get off is the rubber gaskets were not properly lubricated, the rubber can actually adhere well enough to damage, or loosen the inlet. further the only time I would install an empty fuel filter is if I had to turn it upside down to install it, you do not have to fill it to the brim, just put enough fuel into the filter that you can install it without spilling the fuel all over you or your boat. Tip; after pouring the desired amount of fuel in the filter place the filter inside a can that will prevent it from tipping over, and as the can has a flat bottom you can set it down to climb up a ladder etc. Less air in the system the better. I usually use white lithium grease applied in a thin layer with my finger...narry a problem.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2011 12:15 pm
Posts: 382
Location: Lake Ontario
I have to agree to pre-fill. I just changed mine (I have 4, 2 per engine). One is large and then a smaller one on the engine. It filled a bit more than a full size mason jar (have pic, kept complaining size was too big when it's not).

When I put the small one in there too, it was about 3/4 full. In my mind that's a LOT of air to run through the pump. I pre-filled each one about 3/4 of the way, so I wouldn't spill it all over. BTW, when you do this, make sure you put a large zip lock bag around the filter while you're taking it off, and have a funnel to pour out the gas into a container. I also pulled my engines oil dip stick, checked my oil level and used the oil on the end of the dip stick to lube the gasket.

One more thing off the list!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 3:33 am
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Waked Up wrote:
I agree with FIZNUKA; the reason the old ones are so hard to get off is the rubber gaskets were not properly lubricated, the rubber can actually adhere well enough to damage, or loosen the inlet. further the only time I would install an empty fuel filter is if I had to turn it upside down to install it, you do not have to fill it to the brim, just put enough fuel into the filter that you can install it without spilling the fuel all over you or your boat. Tip; after pouring the desired amount of fuel in the filter place the filter inside a can that will prevent it from tipping over, and as the can has a flat bottom you can set it down to climb up a ladder etc. Less air in the system the better. I usually use white lithium grease applied in a thin layer with my finger...narry a problem.


+1 That is the procedure I followed on mine and it started right up and ran like a champ! I just open the dipstick and rub a little oil on the jacket.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:55 am 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:28 pm
Posts: 1387
Location: Kansas City
I don't need to pre-fill, as the Bravo (Gen 4, I think) has residual fuel in the filter assembly, and tends to drain back into this assembly when you remove the element for replacement. Once complete, I cycle the key to run about 3 times (I also use a fuel press gage), and check for leaks before I start it.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 9:57 am 
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Nauti Luv

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:55 am
Posts: 2186
Location: Little Elm - Lake Lewisville TX
I always coat the ring with a little bit of oil. As for pre-fil....nope, I didnt. I just cycle the key a few times to cause the fuel pump to fill it for me before the first time I start it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:37 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:02 pm
Posts: 21
i pre-fill mine with a bit of seafoam and fuel as i'm normally doing the swap around my annual De-Carb...

Not sure with the I/Os but on the Outboard you put it post fuel tank, but pre fuel bulb... so when you pump the bulb before the start it'll fill it up. So if you're just taking it off to dump it, dont worry about the pre-fill.

and +1 on the little bit of oil on the rubber ring. had to use a filter wrench and damn near tore the mount out of the transom trying to break it loose.

Also as an FYI (again, not sure RE I/Os) but i had a nice convo with an evinrude (johnson) tech last week... they DO NOT suggest putting a filter smaller than about 25 micron on (E.G. the standard 10 micron filters from Sierra or Racor) on Carbed engines. Yes it'll run and idle fine, but that little extra bit of restriction can create a lean situation at mid to wide open situations.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 9:17 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:09 am
Posts: 273
Location: Granger, Indiana
I just changed fuel filter as well. Did lube the washer a bit, put on empty, and it fired right up. I have put 75 hours on the boat so far, how often do you change these things ??

I also changed my oil filter, but did NOT change the oil and topped off the oil with a little STP oil treatment to replace what was in the filter. My logic here was the oil was changed at beginning of season, looked a little dirty on dipstick, but not like my truck can get. Should I have changed the oil as well or am I okay for a while longer ??

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:42 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:34 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Alberta, CA
Quote:
I just changed fuel filter as well. Did lube the washer a bit, put on empty, and it fired right up. I have put 75 hours on the boat so far, how often do you change these things ??

I also changed my oil filter, but did NOT change the oil and topped off the oil with a little STP oil treatment to replace what was in the filter. My logic here was the oil was changed at beginning of season, looked a little dirty on dipstick, but not like my truck can get. Should I have changed the oil as well or am I okay for a while longer ??



I stand by my previous comments, just because it started right up, you still introduced additional air into the fuel system ...might come back to bite you one day when you do not prefill the fuel filter(once bitten twice shy). As for the frequency atleast with every oil change. As for the oil filter only change, I am of the opinion that fresh oil is some of the cheapest insurance you can buy, the discoloration of the oil is because of contaminants in the oil (primarily carbon) but bearings do not like contaminates, and engines are not cheap when you don't build them (even when you do) kinda like food...if in doubt throw it out, or in this case recycle it.

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