Bow Stop

Capt. Hoss · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 2:07 pm

As in my previous post you guys are aware that I had to buy a new trailer. Now that I have it wired up and the boat on it, the boat is too short for it, by about 2-2.5 feet. The only issue is the bow stop post is not ajustible. So I am going to make a new one out of square steel tube. I am going to cut the arm off inbetween the roller and the post and add an extention to it. My F-I-L suggested weilding the piece in, but I was thinking of making it ajustible and using bolts and nuts with several holes drilled in. Once it is build it should be as strong if not stronger than before, as well as painted to match. This would also prevent rust from starting. I come to you guys cause I have learned alot from here and wanted to see if there are any thoughts on something like this, or if any known issues could arise that I may be overlooking.

ric · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 2:18 pm

Silly question, but last I purchased a trailer the dealer fitted it to the boat included in the price. Did you buy it used?

NiagaraChillin · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:28 pm

I'm not much of a metal fabricator, but one other issue I would be concerned with is the weight being distributed incorrectly towards the back of the trailer. Boat trailers are usually made to the size of the boat, having a shorter boat could stress the rear axle, assuming it is a dual axle trailer.

If that isn't an issue with your particular setup, I would recommend welding the new beam in place. Bolts tend to wallow out from constant "back-and-forth" movement and could fail.

fiznuka · **Posted:** Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:17 pm

I would recommend that if possible slide in another piece of tube into your extension at-least 8" longer both forward and behind the cut. Then weld and bolt with 5/8 or 1/2" bolts. My trailer has a detachable tongue with pins and as Niagara said they wallowed out. You Could stop that by welding on some washer that are fairly thick to each side of the extension. Also keep in mind it will change your tongue weight.

Capt. Hoss · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:17 am

I did but it used, got one heck of a deal. As for hardware I was going to use like 1/2" stuff. With the boat sitting so far forward it is making the tongue a little heavy, so moving it back should help and even it out. I was thinking of wielding sleeves to put the bolts thru in the post and in the fabbed arm so no wallowing could occur. Also one thing I fogot to mention was that I am going to be adding some brackets to make sure that I am not going to lose the structural integrady of the post.

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

If I am thinking right the weight distribution should be 60/40 with single axle with 60 percent in front of axle.....on tandem its more like 50/20/30 with around 20 being over the axles. In short your fine with moving it back, just make sure you don't put too much behind.

What you described sounds fine....I would go with heavier hardened pins like the swing tongue style lock pins....I suggest including a welded ring for retention chain since the bow post isn't stopping the boat if you wreck.

rpengr · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2013 4:29 pm

I believe the Tongue Weight should be 5-10% of the Boat+Trailer weight. Example, 5000# rig should have 250-500 lbs Tongue Weight.

Capt. Hoss · **Posted:** Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:33 am

I haven't done my math on this yet, as the weather is keeping me indoors staring out the window at the boat. I CAN'T wait till warm weather gets here.

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Bow Stop

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