www.iFourWinns.com

Well I am probably the first one with this problem on the new Fulton F2
The other night I was hooking the boat tailer to my truck. While cranking the new Fulton F2 jack I heard a pop and then jack will not go up and down. Actually, the crank handle now slides right out of the jack. I need to take it apart to see if there is a simple pin that let go but I need to buy a tool to take out the darn "star" head screws...(why couldn't they have just used regular philips head??)
Anyway, anyone already know what I will find on the inside and where I may be able to source parts??

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2009 SL262, Merc 8.1L HO 425 HP With
Bravo III "X" Drive and DTS Smart Tow

I don't have one (yet), but I'm thinking it's connected by way of a pressed-in pin.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Brand new jack? Seems like either Fulton or FW should take care of it....

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

I agree a brand new jack should be fixed free of charge. However...2 problems with this:
1. If it is a simple fix, it is not worth the gas to drive to my dealer.
2. Jack is unusable now and would rather not have to go to the dealer before my next outing

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2009 SL262, Merc 8.1L HO 425 HP With
Bravo III "X" Drive and DTS Smart Tow

ha ha. welcome to my world! My sink pops out... Winnisquam is 3000 miles away!

prop it up with a floor jack and put some wood under it... pull off the f2 and fix it!

If it can't be fixed, try to have the guys get a replacement on order and they'll drop ship it to you. (hopefully).

I tried to get ahold of Ryan today - and he was out on a boat! (at least someone is).

Good luck!

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

Wow...I feel the sympathy oozing from your post
Yeah...I will go buy the tools needed to disassemble and hopefully they can send me a part in the mail. C'est La Vie!

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2009 SL262, Merc 8.1L HO 425 HP With
Bravo III "X" Drive and DTS Smart Tow

These are called TORX head screws. They work great on an assembly line, as they can be held fast to the driver bit for quick assembly. Did you know that Phillips-head screws were developed for the same reason?

Anyway, the F2 does have a lifetime warranty .... to the original purchaser, of course. I have not seen a parts break-down for it. I don't recall if mine came with a repair parts list .. don't think it did.

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Gordon Arnold
New Hampshire

2003 268 Vista ..................................................................Prior: 97 245 Sundowner

BTW, just as Torx is finally beginning to make real inroads toward becoming mainstream (beyond just automotive and cell phones), they've now introduced Torx Plus, a "better mousetrap" compared to Torx. The outer points are a bit more rounded and supposedly the walls are truly 90 degrees or closer to it than Torx. Torx drivers will fit TP (not tightly), but TP will not fit Torx. Yet another set of drivers to stock.

My F2 arrived yesterday. What a beast! If anyone cares, the part number for the optional mounting plate is 0928061-00 and it must be ordered from a distributor. I'm lucky enough to have a great trailer shop nearby who tells me they have these plates in stock. We'll see.

BTW, the instructions for the F2 don't seem to be available online. I made a PDF from it if anyone wants it. There is no parts list or diagram in them.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I took the top cover off the F2. The only pin I can see that people could possibly be having trouble with is a 3/16" cross pin that goes through the crank shaft and engages the pinion gear:



There doesn't appear to be anything holding the pin in other than friction (pressed in). I tried to force this one out and couldn't. The pin is large enough that it seems like it would take a lot of force to break it. Another pic:



Frankly I think my bigger concern is the fact that the whole crank assembly is supported by nothing more than a 5/32"-thick plastic molding. The plastic is molded thicker where the crank rides and it's a stout piece, but I would have included at least a bronze bushing on both sides (if not a ball bearing).

Anyway, the problems I've seen online all had to do with the pin falling out. I don't see how that can happen unless they got an out-of-spec pin (which would still suggest a QC problem at Fulton).

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I still am wondering if i should spend the $ or not. My current jack works, I have several other trailer mods that are not complete yet ....... I think for now I will stick with the old unit. I do really like the beefy, modern look . If I ever complete all my "fantasy" mods it will definitely make it onto the trailer though.

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

Also, I now understand peoples' gripes about the height adjustment. In order to adjust it, you loosen 2 fasteners - a large main nut and a 5/16" hex bolt. The hex bolt can be accessed with a standard Allen wrench, but it barely clears the mounting plate and a socket will not - so I don't really see any way to torque it back down as specified. The main bolt is obstruction-free, so no problem there.

Gordon, did you have to adjust the height on yours? Mine needs to come up 1" in order to achieve the same max. height as my original (and I've always wanted it to go a bit higher).

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Yes, I adjusted it so that, with the jack fully retracted (and the trailer on the truck hitch ball), I had about 1" to 1.5" of clearance from the wheel to the ground. This small clearance could be tight on unlevel ground, but allows a nice high bow, if you want that, when it's parked.

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Gordon Arnold
New Hampshire

2003 268 Vista ..................................................................Prior: 97 245 Sundowner

Did you do anything special to torque the bolt using the Allen wrench, or did you just get it "real tight?"

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Just ... tight

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Gordon Arnold
New Hampshire

2003 268 Vista ..................................................................Prior: 97 245 Sundowner

Couple more pictures. I took the pin and pinion gear out to see if there was some sort of cut or reduction in diameter in the pin to make it an intentional weak point. There wasn't, it's just a plain 3/16" x 1" dowel pin. Although I can't tell for sure, it doesn't seem to be hardened or forged.

I had to use a punch and several good whacks with a ball-pein hammer to get it out. So... I'm not sure how they could be falling out unless some of the pins didn't get the "stamps," and I'm not sure how they could be breaking unless people are really abusing them.





The pin itself is called a "Type E grooved pin" and is .186" at the ends (3/16"), .196" at the middle, and 1" long. I'm going to grab a pack from McMaster to have on hand (their part #98400A245).

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic