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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 1:37 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Sun May 02, 2010 8:53 am
Posts: 104
Location: Danville, Indiana
I'm shopping for 14" trailer tires and rims, and have a couple of questions:

1. What is your preferred radial tire? Basically, I can only find Goodyear and Carlisle, so let me know your preference, or if you know of another brand that is reasonably priced. I intend to tow my boat long distances, at times.

2. I've got standard 5 hole 14" white painted rims that came with the '99 Four Winns trailer, with 205 size tires. Where is a good place to buy replacement rims? These are rusted and look terrible. I'd like to find chrome-plated rims.

3. How do I tell the exact size of the rim and bolt pattern? I can't find it stamped on them anywhere, unless the rust is covering the original stamping. Do you measure the center hole and the distance between the lug holes?

Thanks for the help!
Any other tips or advice would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 2:06 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
DanW wrote:
I can only find Goodyear and Carlisle...

Good Year. But you'll get more opinions on this than you're probably expecting. There are LOTS (and I mean LOTS) of horror stories with Carlisle. But there are people out there who've had no trouble with them. At the same time, Good Year Marathon production (of certain sizes) was moved to China a couple years ago and their record isn't as good as it used to be. Check http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... hon+Radial and click on Specs to see current country of origin for each size.

With any trailer tire, the most important things are:

1) check them before every tow and keep them at the stated max cold pressure. If max cold is 65, I won't leave on a long tow if even one of them is down to 64. The weight capacity of a tire drops off dramatically as the pressure drops.

2) if possible, protect them from the sun during storage.

I happened to come across this, and am posting it only for FYI... it's got the usual ABC dose of alarmism and hyperbole, yet like most things there's probably a grain of truth somewhere. http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerindex?id=4826897

DanW wrote:
Where is a good place to buy replacement rims?

http://www.easternmarine.com. I'm sure they can help you with measurements, etc.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 2:56 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Sun May 02, 2010 8:53 am
Posts: 104
Location: Danville, Indiana
230 Mike wrote:
DanW wrote:
I can only find Goodyear and Carlisle...

Good Year. But you'll get more opinions on this than you're probably expecting. There are LOTS (and I mean LOTS) of horror stories with Carlisle. But there are people out there who've had no trouble with them. At the same time, Good Year Marathon production (of certain sizes) was moved to China a couple years ago and their record isn't as good as it used to be. Check http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... hon+Radial and click on Specs to see current country of origin for each size.

With any trailer tire, the most important things are:

1) check them before every tow and keep them at the stated max cold pressure. If max cold is 65, I won't leave on a long tow if even one of them is down to 64. The weight capacity of a tire drops off dramatically as the pressure drops.

2) if possible, protect them from the sun during storage.

I happened to come across this, and am posting it only for FYI... it's got the usual ABC dose of alarmism and hyperbole, yet like most things there's probably a grain of truth somewhere. http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerindex?id=4826897

DanW wrote:
Where is a good place to buy replacement rims?

http://www.easternmarine.com. I'm sure they can help you with measurements, etc.


Great info! I am 99% sure I've got a 4.5 inch bolt pattern, if I measure the diameter of a circle that goes through the middle of each bolt hole. I'm assuming that is how it is measured.

I still need to know if anyone knows if a 6 inch wide rim will replace the 5.5 inch wide rim without any trouble. From looking at it, I don't see how it could make a difference, as both rims will fit the same tire. It looks like the fender wells will have no clearance problems, either. I just want to make sure.

Tire rack looks like a great price on the tires. Trailer-tires.com has chrome-plated steel rims on sale for $44 bucks each, with free shipping. That works out to about 131 per tire, not counting mounting and balancing. I don't think that's too bad.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 3:11 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
DanW wrote:
It looks like the fender wells will have no clearance problems, either.


Remember, clearing the fenders is one thing, but if the wheels/tires are wide enough to throw debris up and hit your boat, you won't be happy.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 3:40 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Sun May 02, 2010 8:53 am
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Location: Danville, Indiana
230 Mike wrote:
DanW wrote:
It looks like the fender wells will have no clearance problems, either.


Remember, clearing the fenders is one thing, but if the wheels/tires are wide enough to throw debris up and hit your boat, you won't be happy.


It looks to me like they'll stay covered. I'm going to give it another look, with the tape measure in hand, to be sure.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Keeping the tire pressure at whats printed on your trailer label/tire is #1. If the pressure gets low enough the tires will overheat and literally self destruct. They run pretty warm anyway. Avoid sharp turns or jack-knifing the trailer, as it causes stress on the sidewalls. Make sure your lug nuts are tight. Check your hub oil or grease. When I replace my trailer tires I have them balanced, but lots of folks don't. I also put my whole rig - boat, trailer and all up on jacks during the winter to keep the tires off the ground. Mine sits for 6 months and I do this to help against dry rotting and flat spotting.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:57 am 
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Shark

Joined: Sun May 02, 2010 8:53 am
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Location: Danville, Indiana
Kvou812 wrote:
Keeping the tire pressure at whats printed on your trailer label/tire is #1. If the pressure gets low enough the tires will overheat and literally self destruct. They run pretty warm anyway. Avoid sharp turns or jack-knifing the trailer, as it causes stress on the sidewalls. Make sure your lug nuts are tight. Check your hub oil or grease. When I replace my trailer tires I have them balanced, but lots of folks don't. I also put my whole rig - boat, trailer and all up on jacks during the winter to keep the tires off the ground. Mine sits for 6 months and I do this to help against dry rotting and flat spotting.


Funny thing, the tire that lost its mind was the spare, which had never born any weight. It was at 50lbs cold, but again was 11 years old.

I'll follow your advice, though and jack it up off the ground during storage over the winter. I'll actually be storing indoors year-round, so I won't need to worry much about covering them from the sun. I also agree on the balancing.

I'm pretty sure I'll be replacing the wheel bearings altogether. I'm not sure they were ever greased before I did it. They're probably corroded. I never thought about the heat from wheel bearings affecting the tires, but it makes sense.

Thanks again for all the great advice and help! I'll put it to good use, for sure!

Dan

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:19 am 
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230 Mike
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I put mine in the air after the first season but after that decided it was overkill and haven't done it since. Tire balancing on the other hand is critical for anything that moves at highway speeds IMO.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 10:03 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
As far as I am concerned the only rims to use on boat trailers are galvanized rims...I never understood either painted or chrome rims on a boat trailer...here in salt water they'd last about 3 years...but then a painted trailer doesn't last here either...

the main things to check are the bearings...bearing races...seals...bearing adjustment...springs...brakes..actuator...I basically rebuilt my old 1994 Load Rite which was in bad shape axle and spring wise but the galvanized frame is still fine...put on a heavier axle...brakes...longer tongue...longer roller bars with more rollers...now of course I could have bought a new trailer...but I wouldn't have learned all that about boat trailers...
any tech questions see

http://www.championtrailers.com look in tech support...

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 11:10 am 
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I have had and do have several multiple axle trailers with 14" tires. As with anything, the higher the rating, the tougher the tire and the less problems you will have. For 15" and bigger it's a no-brainer, go with load rating "D" and your covered. With 14" however, your choice are very limited.
Most of the one's you see and are mentioned, Goodyear etc., are Class "C" rated. They hold about 50 psi and are ok.
They suck in my opinion, but................

There is one tire that I have had good luck with, Kumo. I order them from the Tirerack and they are about 115 or so a piece shipped. They are rated "D" and hold 65 psi. They are one of the only ones that are a radial. They ride nice and don't wear much and I jack mine around with a triple axle all the time....... :D

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 3:55 pm 
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230 Mike
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Stock tires on 230/240 (and larger) trailers are 15" D@65psi. Not sure about the smaller trailers. I agree the D's are best and that's what my Marathons are.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 1:58 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 3:57 am
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
Hi DanW,

I just bought a New H210SS and noticed that the trailer was fitted with nice 14 Aluminum rims but bias Green Ball tires. I went online and found some Maxxis M8008 in ST205/75R-14 and purchased 5 with Road Hazard Warranty, shipping, & valve stems for $520. The roads in NM pretty much suck, so I always try and get the best tire I can. I have never had Maxxis on a trailer before but can attest to the quality of their ATV Tires. Never heard of Green Ball, but I think going from a bias ply to a radial was a wise move. Check out Discount Tire Online. :wink:

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