www.iFourWinns.com

So, similar to other posts, it seems like the brakes need adjusting on our trailer. They don't have nearly the stopping power they used to and our Jeep seems to be doing the lion's share of the work. I need to find some place to inspect / bleed / adjust them, but standard brake shops don't seem to be able to work on them. Any ideas where we could take the boat other than a FW dealer? They're a bit of a hike to get to from where we keep the boat.

Thanks!

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2008 H210 - Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi - 130 hrs on the clock
2011 Chevy Tahoe LX - 5.3L V8 w/tow package

Look for a trailer shop. Some areas have them, some don't. There's a good chance they just need bled and fresh fluid.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

In the Dallas area by chance?

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Current Boat:
2004 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer "Nauti Luvin'"

Previous Boats:
1999 298 Vista "Seas The Day"
2008 H200SS "Nauti Luv"
2006 Tahoe Q4

Nope... Denver. And most "trailer shops" are on a 2-3 week timeframe apparently. Will lube up the mechanism and check that the brake fluid is full and hope for the best. Thanks, though.

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2008 H210 - Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi - 130 hrs on the clock
2011 Chevy Tahoe LX - 5.3L V8 w/tow package

Bleeding your brakes isn't very hard to do if you're a little mechanically inclined. It's easier if you have a helper but isn't impossible to do alone. There are lots of online instructions for doing it.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Keep in mind that if you have disc brakes (and you probably do) there is no adjustment, disc brakes are by design self adjusting. Drum brakes (what I have on the old 94 Load Rite) are adjustable. If you have a lack of braking action the things to check are fluid level and the mounting bolts for the calipers. The calipers must be able to float back and forth slightly and if the mounting bolts (which usually have an inner sleeve that can be lubed) are not lubed or getting sticky then they may not move enough to give full braking action. The other point is that if you have any air in the brake lines it will reduce your braking substantially. It is not hard to bleed the brakes if you go and buy a one man brake bleeder (I have one made by Lisle, it is a simple plastic cup with a lid and plastic lines attached). But if you had to bleed the brakes it is likely that there is a leak somewere which may be nothing more than a loose fitting that needs to be tightened. So in order of most likely faults, I'd look for leaks first and check the fluid level. If you find a leak then that has to be corrected (often can be done easily with a flare wrench so as to not strip the brake line fittings) and then the air needs to be bled out...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

+1 on Lou's comments.

In addition:
Check for damaged/pinched brake lines. Mine had a pinched line and I was running with one brake for an unknown amount of time....

If you have a removable trailer tongue (and possibly regardless), check for quick disconnects and ensure that they have clipped together correctly to allow fluid to pass.

My guess is low fluid at some point leading to air in the lines. Pep Boys or any other auto shop will have inexpensive bleeder kits and it's a matter of pumping the fluid through the system one side at a time to displace any air. See your instruction manual for your brake actuator for instructions on this process.

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

Also check for leaks on the brake lines - on mine one of the line connections was loose at a union (probably from the factory). Only noticed it by chance when I had it parked on my downhill street with the trailer constantly pushing on the actuator - tiny pool of fluid appeared on the road. Tightened up the loose fitting, checked all of the others and bled the brakes - good as new ever since.

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport