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 Post subject: How does it all add up?
PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 4:37 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:12 pm
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Location: Buffalo NY
Hi, Dreaming about the coming spring, with 4ft of snow on my front yard all I can do is dream. So I was getting to be thinking bout these figures for towing etc.The Toyota I have is the V6 FWD tow rated at 5000lbs Truck weighs curb weight 4600lbs boat rated at 3100lbs trailer weight 1050Lbs total 9150lbs..I read somewhere that the GCWR should be 6120lbs so what is this figure and how do these figures add up. I will be looking to find a weigh station in the Tonawanda Buffalo area in the spring so I know what my complete rig weighs in at. In the mean time does anyone know about the stated figures :?: :roll:

Thanks Guys Ray

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 6:49 pm 
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268 Vista

Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
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Location: West Michigan
Might be worth a look here:
http://www.trailerboats.com/towrating/

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:03 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
That 6120 # sounds like your Vehicle Gross Weight Rating, the most the vehicle can weigh, not the Combined Gross Weight Rating, which is the 9---- figure you quoted. So you are probably OK on the weight, as long as the tow vehicle is lightly loaded. Your Toyota owners manual will have both figures in the towing section. I'd think again about using a WD hitch if you tow for any distance at highway speeds, I recall in your pix there was a lot of sag in the rear. When you have that much sag with the rig standing still, you get a lot of bouncing going over bumps at higher speeds, the WD hitch will really help that. Just make sure that you use one that works with surge brakes. I used simple air bags on my Jeep and they work well for short trips and local driving, totally eliminated the bouncing effect from the tongue weight of the trailer.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:41 am 
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Location: Jeffersonville, IN
I have seen many recommendations that you shouldn't tow more than 80% of the tow rating for your vehicle, as a safety precaution I guess, and, because you are right at that I would be concerned. Also, the added stuff like gasoline, life jackets, cooler, food, skis/equipment, miscellaneous things all add up quickly. I think a trip to the scales with your boat minimally loaded may be a great idea.

Are batteries included in the listed "dry weight" of Four Winns boats?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:47 am 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
He's just fishing for an excuse to buy a new truck. :mrgreen: :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:52 pm 
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230 Mike wrote:
He's just fishing for an excuse to buy a new truck. :mrgreen: :wink:



Upgrade the Highlander to a Tundra You will not be disappointed!!!!!! :evil:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:24 pm 
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Location: Connecticut shore
I think car manufacturers tend to underrate their towing capacity so in the event people exceed it, they will still be somewhat safe.......I know I'm over my tow rating, but I only travel 5miles to the marina over flat roads so I'm not too worried......My 2001 Mercury Mountainneer w/ tow package is rated to tow 5500lbs--the hitch is rated @ 5,000lbs.....the boat is about 4500 dry, trailer is 1148lbs, then with all the gear, gas, batteries, etc, etc that puts me at over 6,000lbs! I can certainly feel the weight behind me, but the car really doesn't seem to struggle that much......flat roads remember. Keep the vehicle maintained and you should be fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:43 pm 
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230 Mike
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I believe they're overstated, at least in the case of pickups where marketing departments look for anything they can find to have an edge over the competition. In the last 10 years, half-ton pickups have definitely been beefed up - but not to the point where a 10K or 11K lb. tow capacity can be taken seriously IMO.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:00 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
That's true Mike, you really have to read the fine print, and all of it is based with a VERY light load in the tow vehicle. You cannot tow with a fully loaded vehicle at the max tow rating because over a certain point, whatever you put in the tow vehicle weight wise has to get subtracted from the tow rating. I have also wondered how safe it is for 1/2 ton trucks and most or all SUVs to be running round on P-rated tires, whereas 3/4 ton trucks all have LT-rated tires, either C or D load ranges. I have though of putting them on my older Jeep for off-roading because they are built stronger but they need higher air pressures to support the same weight as a P rated tire and therefore ride harsher. I don't tow much at all because my boat is moored in the harbor behind our house all season, but if I did, I'd probably upgrade to at least XL rated P tires on my newer Jeep (these can go up to 44 psi and can carry more load than a regular P rated tire that maxes out at 35 psi).

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:00 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Good point on the pressures Lou. FWIW, I've had to buy two sets of tires in the last 9 months; both are P radials and both are max 44psi. One set is BFG Long Trail T/A's for the truck, the other is Hankook Optimo H727's which I put on my wife's Honda Odyssey last week.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:03 am
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
Happy New Year!!!

I have had 3 F-150s and very happy with them. What most CAR dealers do not understand how engine size with rear-end/differentials work. They give you the biggest number with out taking into account engine, rear-end & body type. Prime example is, a 2 door can tow more than a 4-door with all other thing being equal. Why, a 4-door truck weighs more.

The other thing too is, you must add your boat, trailer, gear, fuel & even yourself!!! To give you the total towing wight.

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