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Coupler Rating
https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7442		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  PDACPA [ Mon May 09, 2011 1:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Coupler Rating
I replaced the coupler on my trailer (single axle, 6 lug, 21ft Four Winns) for my 180. I use a 2" inch ball and the only coupler's they had were rated for 3500 GPW.

I checked with another guy who said I would be fine. I know my trailer, boat, and gear weigh less than 5k, but I am guessing with gear and fuel I could be over 3500 pounds.

Can anyone let me know if I am ok with the coupler rated to 3500 or should i search for the next one up which is 5000 pounds rating? I have been to a few places and no one has the 5000 rating coupler.
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Author:  230 Mike [ Mon May 09, 2011 2:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
I'm no expert on coupler ratings, but as a general rule if you think you might even be close to that unit's rated capacity, I'd move up to the next one.

Best advice might come from a professional trailer shop or supply though.
Author:  PDACPA [ Mon May 09, 2011 3:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
Just talked to them. They suggested the 5k. I think the 2" ball is just commonly associated with the 3500 or less weight and the smaller ball's with 2000 or less.
Author:  LouC [ Mon May 09, 2011 4:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
The reason I'd guess why you don't see a coupler like that rated for more than 3500 lbs is because once you get past that weight you need a brake system with a hydraulic coupler, if that trailer is a 6 lug axle trailer it must have come with brakes. I have a Tie Down Model 66 on my old Load Rite and it is rated for 6600 lbs with a 2 in ball. The 2 in ball on my drawbar for my 07 Jeep is rated at 6000 lbs, the size of the shank is a significant factor in ball weight capacity ratings.
Author:  PDACPA [ Mon May 09, 2011 4:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
Lou - the trailer did come with brakes. The former owner never serviced them and when I bought it they were rusted beyond belief. Not sure if the old hubs (I kept them greased) just wore out or someone stole my lugs at the ramp Saturday, but I had the wheel bust off at 70 on the highway coming home Saturday night. Wheel bounced and rolled quite a distance down the breakdown lane. Brought the boat and trailer home on the flat bed.

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When the wheel broke off it sheared the studs from the hub and the trailer fell to the ground on the brake disc which ripped off and bent the caliper as I brought it to a stop in the breakdown lane. Since my truck had no issue towing, I just removed the other side brake disc and caliper (had to cut it off it was so rusted) and mounted new hubs on both sides. The axle was in great shape as were the springs.

Since I no longer had brakes, I took off the old coupler that had the brake fluid and the mechanism and could only find the 3500 to replace it with.
Author:  230 Mike [ Mon May 09, 2011 4:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
Sheesh, what a mess. Glad you and the boat are OK. Sounds like a good time to go back in with new brakes, new hydraulic actuator, etc. Tie Down on mine too (the low profile version of the 66) and am very happy with it.
Author:  PDACPA [ Mon May 09, 2011 5:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
I actually thought the tire blew (was in the left lane) heard the "bam" looked in the rearview and saw the boat leaning way to the left and I turned into the left side breakdown lane as I did there goes my tire and wheel bouncing by and basically ran along the breakdown lane rubbing on the guardrail.

For now I am going to go "brakeless," but in the near future will probably put on a whole new set of brakes and related parts.

I have to say, I was pretty amazed at how easy the tow truck guy was able to load up boat and trailer. Used a little portable hydraulic jack as a "wheel" under the rearmost cross base. Cost was not too bad considering the distance. My buddy has a 20 Mako with T Top and he said that would have been 3x more to tow as it needs a real low flat bed or they would be taking out street lights.
Author:  ridepate [ Mon May 09, 2011 6:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
Glad everything happened the way it did, it could have been ugly!!
Author:  LouC [ Mon May 09, 2011 6:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
WOW that was a lucky outcome given what could have happened! I don't trailer much at all (boat sits on a salt water mooring all summer) but I do check the lugs, bearings, brakes every year just in case I do need to trailer it somewhere, other than to the boat ramp (1/8 mile). My mechanic is only 2 miles away but I haven't had to take it to them since 2005 or so...
I'd go with a new system, flush out the lines, etc. When I put the brakes on this trailer (2004) the disc systems out there were troublesome, so I put in a drum system, which for me works fine because I don't dunk the trailer in salt too often. I just pack the piston and boot of the wheel cylinder with synthetic caliper grease and grease up the adjuster threads with OMC triple guard grease (an excellent water proof grease by the way). That keeps them working well and I have only replace the backing plates once since 2004.
Author:  PDACPA [ Tue May 10, 2011 7:51 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
We trailer every time we go and 95% it is being dunked in salt water. The lines were so bad I just cut them off. Who knows when they last saw fluid. I am investigating adding the brakes, but for $130 i am back in business.

Are brakes that critical on a small boat? My buddy has a20ft Mako on a tandem axle with no brakes. Just considering my options .
Author:  LouC [ Tue May 10, 2011 3:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
You are right at the weight of needing brakes, if they require them for 3000 lbs and over, the 180 is probably 2700 lbs and the trailer at least 800 or so. Plus if it was packaged with brakes originally, then FW thought it needed them too. Pretty much any vehicle you are towing with, the manufacturer will say it needs brakes if the trailer is over 1500 to 2000 lbs. When I got our 88 200 the trailer did not have brakes, and towing it on the hills we have here with my old 98 Jeep (4 11" discs) was scary. No way those brakes were able to safely stop a combined weight of a little over 8000 lbs. I put on a pair of 10" surge drums and it made a huge difference. I now tow the boat with our 07 Grand with the Hemi, and 12.5 in brakes but still I'd have trailer brakes. In salt, if you dunk every time, you have to use the best stuff, but many people here do not use brakes either. It's a chance I'm not willing to take to save a few hundred bucks....
Author:  PDACPA [ Wed May 11, 2011 8:36 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
I looked up the weight of the boat and trailer and appears to be 3200 pounds. That is probably no fuel or cooler full of beer and ice :mrgreen: . So I think I can stick with the 3500 coupler (no one has the 5000 coupler). I looked at a 5000 coupler that was meant for a different style trailer than mine and the metal appears to be the same thickness. Yet when you look at the 2000 max coupler, the metal is thinner and the entire assembly is smaller.

Since I do not have a huge tow vehicle, the brakes probably need to be in the future. Florida is flat, so no hills to worry about.
Author:  robbo3 [ Wed May 11, 2011 8:40 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
I have the 3500 coupler on my stock trailer without brakes. I wouldn't want anything bigger without brakes, but I can stop it fine with my Explorer in emergency situations, although it is more wear on the brakes of the vehicle.
Author:  Paul I. [ Wed May 11, 2011 9:18 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
PDACPA wrote:
We trailer every time we go and 95% it is being dunked in salt water. The lines were so bad I just cut them off. Who knows when they last saw fluid. I am investigating adding the brakes, but for $130 i am back in business.

Are brakes that critical on a small boat? My buddy has a20ft Mako on a tandem axle with no brakes. Just considering my options .



Yes, it is the wight! I too boat 100% in salt water. I do hose the trailer down when I get home. I have had the same trailer for the past 5 years, but been boating for the past 12yrs. Every 3 years the calipers will lock up. I would just buy the whole kit, new brakes, rotor and bearings for $125 each. This year I when to stainless steal rotors and a better caliper at 175 each. I am hoping to get 4 plus years out of them.

BUT, I would never under rate anything on the trailer!! If the boat & trailer is 3600lbs, than go to a 5000lb hitch. IF that trailer was to brake free & hurt anyone!!! LAW SUIT
Author:  PDACPA [ Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Coupler Rating
Northern Tool had a 6000 pound capacity for $19. Perfect fit. I will say, there was a difference in "feel" from the 3500 pound capacity to the 6000 pound capacity yet visually, they looked identical. 3500 went back and I saved $5 and have more than enough capacity for my rig.
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