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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:48 pm 
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I put four new tires on my trailer almost two years ago. Noticed today the back left tire is VERY worn, and the other three are about even, and all look new.

My trailer has disc brakes on the rear axle only. The rear hubs are often 10 degrees hotter than the fronts after a long tow, not too suprising since it has brakes.

The past two trips out, I've noticed a greasy smell coming from the rear left tire. It has not been running hotter than normal or any excess grease/dirt coming from it. Taking the tire off to check the brakes out this evening is how I noticed the worn tire, which I rotated to the front on that side. Brakes looked good and were not sticking.

Where do I start? Thankfully I've never had any problems like this before.

This is after I rotated, the rear tires normally always get the dirt/grease look in no time compared to the fronts.
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The worn tire, notice how much of Lincoln's head you can see.
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And a bit hard to see, but this is another tire.....see how little of Lincoln's head you can see.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 9:55 pm 
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You you checked the bearings? Jack up the trailer, try to rock/move the tire around. In other words, put one hand at 9:00 & and the other at 3:00. Push with one hand & pull with the other. It should only move about a 1/16". It it moves more, I would pull the wheel. When was the last time you repacked the bearings?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 10:02 pm 
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I'd consider the +10* difference on the rears normal. I'd ask the same questions as Paul but also, on the worn tire, is the inside portion of the tread as unworn as the outside is worn? And when you jack it up and do that "shake test," be sure you have that 1/16" of play. If you have none, your bearings are too tight.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 10:44 pm 
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I would without a doubt repack and check all your bearings on all four spindles. Also check the races or cups as some would call them or the things the bearings spin on in the hubs to make sure they don't spin should be a tight fit. They sometimes will spin in the hub and cause a wheel seal to leak which in turn spits out the grease -heats up the hub and bearings and then comes apart. I'm sure you have seen that guy on the side of the road. Don't be that guy. And have the tire shop check the rim could be bent.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:13 am 
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230 Mike wrote:
I'd consider the +10* difference on the rears normal. I'd ask the same questions as Paul but also, on the worn tire, is the inside portion of the tread as unworn as the outside is worn? And when you jack it up and do that "shake test," be sure you have that 1/16" of play. If you have none, your bearings are too tight.


I'll repack the bearings this week and try that shake test. Whats the best way to remove and install the inner races that the bearings ride on?

As for the tire wear, that one worn tire is worn more on the inside than the outside, but its still worn quite a bit on the outside.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:15 am 
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fiznuka wrote:
Whats the best way to remove and install the inner races that the bearings ride on?


Lay hub assembly on the ground and use a punch from the opposite side to catch the edge of the race. Tap your way around till you knock it out. I use a kit like this to install the races and seal...works great.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:29 am 
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I put four new tires on my trailer almost two years ago. Noticed today the back left tire is VERY worn, and the other three are about even, and all look new.



Hey Fire...maybe try measuring the difference between the axle centerlines on each side to make sure you don't have a shifted axle or bent spindle? Even a slight shift could cause a toe-in/out situation which would result in excessive tire wear.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:11 pm 
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Bliss36 wrote:
fiznuka wrote:
Whats the best way to remove and install the inner races that the bearings ride on?


Lay hub assembly on the ground and use a punch from the opposite side to catch the edge of the race. Tap your way around till you knock it out. I use a kit like this to install the races and seal...works great.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html


+1. I use a long punch and a 3 lb sledge. It's a bit of work to get the races out. I wouldn't assume you need to replace them though, until you get a better look at what's going on.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:28 pm 
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May want to also check to make sure you don't have a broken leaf spring on that side of the axle. This would cause the axle to shift and cause the tire wear.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 11:46 pm 
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07H200SS wrote:
May want to also check to make sure you don't have a broken leaf spring on that side of the axle. This would cause the axle to shift and cause the tire wear.


Good idea, thanks. I'll check it out.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:10 pm 
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you might want to invest in some bearing buddies also.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:50 am 
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I've had those before but they will not work with a Four Winns trailer. IMO Four Winns has a grease setup better than Bearing Buddies as it puts the new grease in back forcing water/old grease out the front, inessence you can repack all the grease easily.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:32 pm 
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Definitely invest in a race and seal kit as Bliss36 has suggested, also a long brass drift punch to take out the cups if you need to do so.

But if you are only repacking the roller bearings, all that needs to come out of the rear is the seal, (replace with new one) leave the cup in the hub unless it is damaged. Always replace cup and bearing as a pair.

Greg

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