www.iFourWinns.com

I have a 2008 FW H240 tadem axle trailer.

I've replaced the factory tires and the ride is much nicer.

I've got this exact same issue on my 268's trailer. I plan on measuring tomorrow as well as changing out the bearings since I already have a spare set and have yet to do that on this trailer.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

No, I'm thinking, "Must be a FW trailer."

I'd say you should find a decent trailer shop and have them evaluate the situation. One or both axles may need to be moved. If you have an axle that's out of position by an inch, no amount of changing bearings or anything else will fix it.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I might have to check mine - left rear also.

My issue has been some tire wear / cupping but figured I'd hit 6 years and have to replace them before they actually wore out. I had to put a new seal in the left rear last year, and by eye it looked like the stub may have been welded in crooked, but I thought I might have been imagining it so took it no further. Will get the tape measure out this weekend for a quick check (great idea by the way!)

So, how do you fix your problem? Somehow have to move the axle further back on the spring. I'm not sure how the axle locates on the spring, but suspect it doesn't and relies on the U-bolts to position it. So my first thoughts are back off the U-bolts, move the axle to the correct position, check and re-check both sides, then tighten the U-bolts up. You would also have to measure that the front axle was square to the trailer before you started taking any measurements off it.

In the past when building race car chassis, I used to drop a plum line to the ground from the various points and mark the shop floor with a felt marker, then measure beween these marks. This is probably the best way to do your trailer. Mark the coupling centre point, then the rear corners of the trailer, then start measuring the axle tips to each of these points. You'll soon figure out where the problem is and end up with a trailer that tracks ultra straight.

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

I was hoping I wasn't the only one experiencing this and that it is a "FW trailer" problem. Finding a good trailer shop has been more difficult than I thought it would be. I have been considering a auto body repair shop who straighten frames. Perhaps they have dealt with trailers. (Aussie_Horizon_190) I like the plumb bob/marker idea.

I have had an issue with the Carlisle tires, sidewall cracked on one, and the Turbo Lube seals leaking all over the backside of the wheels. Trailer tires seem to be such a hot topic, apparently hard to source tires not made offshore. I used to subscribe to the theory of only using proper trailer tires but now I am not so sure that using a light truck tire might not be a bad idea.

I have embarked on a bearing and seal replacement project, one at a time. The stuff is all made in china as are some of the suspension components. I am replacing them with name brand bearings and seals.

Trailer is a 2008 tandem but it only has a about a 1000miles on it and the tires show no significant wear. I also check the tire tread temps when trailering and have have noticed no anomalies that would relate to bad alignment.

Greg

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2008 210SS 6.2L DTS Bravo 1 Now featuring MercMonitor w/SmartTow

I understand that the trailer is a FW. But I am willing to bet that someone else makes it. Can you call them to see what they would say?

I have a Loadrite, and there are more than helpful when I call. Hopefully they will be the same.

Four Winns makes all their trailers in house in a seperate building at the Cadillac plant.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

OH, I did not know that. But my piont is, can you call them for help??

Found a great local trailer shop and just got off the phone with them. Sounds like I may have a small toe out problem, and after discussing it with him I am going to just rotate the tires out. I've had it for two years and it is bad enough to rotate out, so I will just rotate them yearly and then put new tires on when they are all worn. 5-6 years is about all I'd want on a set of trailer tires.

It cost me $363 for all four new tires two years ago, which is roughly the same price as a new axle swapped in. Since we may slip our boat in the future it makes sense to just leave it with the increased tire wear as long as it doesn't get worse.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I am heading to the Colorado River/Lake Mohave (Laughlin, NV.) this weekend and will store the boat in an enclosed garage from now on.

I must admit guys, contrary to popular opinion, I've actually been pretty impressed with my FW trailer...

About my only gripe (as Mike230 knows) is that I wish FW had used stainless nuts and bolts and hardware on their gal trailers rather than just plated ones as they rust out pretty quickly in salt water as did the clearance lamps.

I've towed my boat many thousands of miles on some pretty crappy Australian coastal roads at 60-70 mph in temperatures of 90 degrees plus and never had a problem (now I'm tempting fate...!!).

I'm pretty fussy on my trailers as well having built several large car carrying ones in the past, and I can't actually find much at all I would change on my FW trailer given the chance. Although when I purchased my boat at the time I was very specific on wanting a tandem trailer, galvanized and gatorhyded, with 4 wheel disc brakes and LED lights. Well worth the money in my opinion.

On tires, in Australia, you can't even buy trailer grade tires (some Govt. safety regulation I guess), so everyone here uses light truck tires. Tire issues do not appear to be very common here at all.

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

I actually like my trailer too, but I've put a good $1,300 into getting it that way:

- Replaced tires shortly after delivery
- Replaced all lights with LED's
- Boat Buckles at transom & bow
- All bunks replaced with wider ones; outboard bunks extended to next frame member (associated welding, brackets, etc.)
- Brake line secured properly (vs. the original double stick tape )
- Replaced original tongue jack with Fulton F2, with welded bracket
- All other hardware replaced with stainless

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Mike: Did you replace the bulbs with LED's or the whole light assembly?
What did you use to replace double stick tape and where to buy?

Jim, I replaced the entire light housings. Optronics has LED units that match the dimensions and mounting hole locations of the originals, so no new holes were needed. On the brake line, I just used those stainless wire clamps with the rubber linings.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic