www.iFourWinns.com

I have 1998 220 Horizon with FourWinns tandem axel trailer. I removed the dust covers on the ends of the axel and found the grease zerk. Should I pump this untill I see new grease come out - I do not want to wreck any seals or have grease flinging out when I go down the road.

I also found on-line a FourWinns Manual on their trailer "Trailer Information". It says, "Do NOT use waterproof grease in trailer bearings". Is that correct? Wouldn't I want to use marine grease due water submersion.

Thanks,

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Yep, you pump the grease in until it comes out. I definately use marine grease on mine as it says on the container it is ideal for use on boat trailer wheel bearings. Never had an issue at all with it, even when towing in temps of 100 degree+. To quote from the FW manual:

Bearing Protectors should be greased three to four times a year. A grease ftting is provided.

Four Winns uses the Accu-Lube™ bearing protection system on its trailers. The Accu-Lube™ design is sub-mersible and provides for grease flow that completely repacks and protects the bearings. This lubrication system disallows water entry, thus extending the life of the bearings, spindle and hub. Lubricate the bearings as follows:

1 Remove the rubber plug.
2 Insert the grease gun into the grease ftting. Pump grease until old grease comes back out the front.
3 Remove old grease and reinstall rubber plug.

As for the grease type, again to quote from my FW manual:

If the bearings are in good condition, repacking the grease should be done at this time. Hand pack each bearing individually using a premium water resistant wheel bearing grease.

Hope this helps....

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

I have the same thing on the axle I had made for my Load Rite, the way you grease them is to remove the rubber cap, jack up the wheel you are greasing, then turn the wheel while slowly pumping in grease, till you see new grease come out the hole in the dust cover. Next (careful the edge of the metal dust cover can be sharp), clean out the excess grease around the spindle nut to allow for expansion, and replace the rubber cap.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

+1 on the sharp edge. Nothing like having greasy hands with a huge gash spurting blood all over. Luckily I had a whole roll of paper towels handy since I knew the grease would be messy.

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Terry
Current: 07 Crownline 255 CCR cuddy - 350 Mag MPI/B3 "Casi Cielo"

Previous:97 245 Sundowner 5.7GI/SX

Tow vehicle: 1986 GMC 2500 Camper Special 454/TH400

Thanks guys...

Just as I thought - just wanted to make sure. I will get the bearings greased up tomorrow night. I appreciate the help. Great site.


Jeff

Just as a note to get rid of the bloody cut fingers from removing old grease from the cavity.... it is not that hard to just take the blasted metal dust covers off first using a screwdriver and a hammer if necessary... it will give you easy access to remove the old grease. pull the rubber plugs and remove the thin metal dust covers... it will save time I promise... you can get them back in with a rubber mallet if they are stubborn quite easily

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2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A

+1, that's what I do as well. I can have the caps off & back on in about the same time it takes to clean the excess grease out, and I don't have to clean up the blood and be in pain for the next 4 days. A rubber faced deadblow mallet is a nice tool to have to put the caps back on without tearing them up. It doesn't even damage the paint.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I have a dedicated grease gun with Super Tech Marine Grease (Wal-Mart). Does anyone see a problem using that on the wheel bearings?

If that works great - Just trying to reduce the number of grease guns I own.

Jeff

The rubber caps get old and need to be replaced occasionally to keep water out of the bearings. They run about $3 for a set of two.

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2006 Sundowner 255, 5.7 GXi, 320 hp
"Simply Irresistible"

What about the FW trailer "maintenance free" bearings? They can't truly be maintenance free can they? One of my wheels has dirty residue all over the inside half of the wheel on a trailer that is only one season old. Dealership told me not to worry about it and they would check it out at the 25 hour service (boat only has 12 hours).

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Scott
2008 Horizon 210 Frenzy Edition
Volvo 5.7L Gi

I've used supertech before as well... works as good as any other I suppose.. having a dedicated marine grease gun is a good idea... always use lithium base type marine grease (it is the most common type i think...i have not seen many other base types for marine grease, they may all be that way now) . Swapping and clearing the old type of grease out is a dirty PITA job...

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2007 FW Horizon 200 5.0GXi/SX-A

To get the metal dust cover off with the nasty sharp edges (I think we have all eventually experienced this, all over the world! ) I use a piece of 2" poly water pipe about a foot long, place it over the cover and wiggle it off. To replace the cover, I put the poly pipe over it and gently tap it on with a hammer - works like a charm and doesn't damage or dent the cover at all.

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

Just remember pumping grease in from the zerk fitting only get the front of the bearing. Also, do not pump in to much or you can blow out the back seal. My boat/trailer is at the shop right now getting all new bearings. Current ones are original to the trailer so it was time.

I'm not sure what FW uses on their trailers, but the axle I had
Champion Trailers make me for my old 94 Load Rite came with Tie Down Super Lube spindles and the grease goes from the zerk, through a passage in the spindle, behind and through the inner bearing and then through the outer bearing. With this set up I have not had to manually repack the bearings in years, but I don't trailer much....

http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c718.pdf

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

That's what FW uses as well (at least since '04). As per the diagram Lou posted, new grease does get both bearings. The danger of blowing out the rear seal isn't really from pumping in too much, rather it's from pumping too quickly/forcefully, as with a pneumatic grease gun (which I've used anyway, without harming the seals, but it was at my own risk). The pumping needs to go slowly enough that the pressure can make its way to the front of the hub, forcing the old grease out. Since the pressure has to go through two bearings and a hub full of grease, there's almost as much resistance from the front as there is from the rear seal.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic