www.iFourWinns.com

Got "off track", well depends on the topic.......ric, does Melissa look like the picture on the mud flap above?

Ok, back to trailers.

Sorry couldn't resist. Really didn't mean to start page 4.

Mike.

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Current Boat
- 2001 Four Winns 328 Vista "Hour Decision"
- 2010 310 Mercury Inflatable

Previous Boats
- 30' Doral Prestancia
- 25' Doral Citation

I have a weight distributing hitch and will never tow something without it. They make a big difference and if you pick up the right one, they work fine with surge brakes.

G-d damn, those duck waffles look good! Anyone know the hunting laws in Indiana? Here ducky, ducky......

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2006 Vista 258
2007 Yukon Denali

Actually, I'm hearing more about people switching to electric brakes on boat trailers. I don't know how good an idea that is, but if they're reliable they would be a thousand times better than surge IMO. I'd never towed anything with electric brakes until about two years ago, and it was a near-religious experience compared to surge brakes.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I'm right there with you. However, when I switched to a Ram 2500 and went to set it up, it was not needed. Followed directions, called the manufacturer, and when set up it had no weight on it to distribute. It made a huge difference with my Durango, as I'm sure it does with your Yukon.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I'm definitely with you Mike re electric trailer brakes. Towed a trailer with them recently - awesome. Then towed my boat with surge brakes - OK, but definately not as good as electric. I think one of the key things with electric brakes is the controller - get the best you can - I got a Tekonsha.

With both surge and electric brakes I use a weight distribution hitch as I am towing with a regular sedan - Commodore VE / Pontiac G8

Now all we gotta do is find someone who sells electric brakes that can handle getting dunked in salt water and a conversion kit...

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

Yep. P3 for me. I love that thing. Wish I could adjust my boat brakes on the fly by pushing a button.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Yep - exactly what I got Mike - the P3. Went to the local GM dealer and got the wiring harness making it a fairly simple install.

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

I have to say even though this thread got a little off course I got the answers I was looking for! I have noticed a trend with the electric brakes...everyone who has posted that they've used them love them.

I was set on getting electric brakes until I talked an owner of a dealership I trust who gave a compelling argument against them....but I haven't heard anything negative about them since. That's not to say I wouldn't buy a trailer with surge but if it's an option I would really like to have the control of electric brakes. I'm happy to see the good reviews here on the P3 since that's the controller I'm planning on using if I end up with electric brakes.

I have another question: One of the tandem trailers I'm looking at has the option of upgrading the tires from 15" to 16" How big of a difference am I going to see in that 1"? Worth it or put the money into other things like led lighting? Thanks for all the great input so far!

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Our Boating Blog: http://ben-dana.blogspot.com/

2005 268 Vista "Sea Pickle II"
1979 AMF Alcort Puffer
Previous:
2003 FW190 Horizon
1973 Startcraft 18ft "Sea Pickle"

I'd look at what replacement tires are available and in what load ranges. I believe I have 15" and getting E's is hard to find....so I put D's on this past season. LED lights are worth it, I went LED this past year also.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I don't have any experience with 16", but I would think it could be a good thing as long as you aren't already at the limit of how far your tow vehicle has to back in to load or launch. If that extra inch (1/2" of ride height theoretically) means you have to get the TV back another foot in order to load, and you're already up to the differential as it is - that's one thing you need to consider. Otherwise, the 16" might give you a better selection of tires to pick from. With some boats, a foot further forward or backward makes no difference. With mine, if I don't get all the way in to the max, I can't get the boat all the way up on the trailer.

On the electric brakes - if I were buying a new trailer I'd spend some serious research time on that topic, so as to either a) get them if at all possible, or b) know exactly why not to get them. I've heard of a couple of different people switching to them lately, but I think they're both in fresh water and are doing it only because of specific conditions they travel through. I have no specifics though.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Never had electric brakes but a controller is built into the F-150. I thought this "might" be good info if you own one.

"The F-150 offers an available fully integrated Trailer Brake Controller (TBC).* This first-in-class feature** synchronizes vehicle and trailer brakes for seamless braking (even with the heaviest loads) to provide added driving control and confidence." from their site.

I do boat in salt water so from time to time the fuse for the trailer lights would blow. Changed over to sealed LEDs, never had the problem again.

If you are all talking only freshwater, I guess they can last, but if they are not the marine rated style electric brakes, they are still drum brakes that are prone to corrosion. In salt water it's not even a possibility. Just to keep your trailer lights working, in salt you have to run a separate ground wire, you can't depend on the frame to provide a continuous ground because of corrosion. I would not want to depend on electric brakes in salt, and even though we have a lot of hills, I'd stick with surge.

For the OP, I'd go galvanized or aluminum, and if you want bunks, you can have an extra pair of bunks added forward to help center the bow and provide more support. Here, with a 6' water depth tidal change, we have to use rollers. My FW has no problem with a roller trailer, it's easy on and easy off. I just grease em all up 2x a year and no problem with rollers. I could never get the boat on and off at low tide with a bunk here.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Many of the newer trucks do come with integrated controllers. A friend has a new F150 Platinum with one and he's happy with it. Others, I've heard aren't too impressed with them. All controllers are definitely not the same.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

The tundra he's got is pretty much a 3/4 ton and has same tow cap rating as most do in standard 3/4 ton trucks. The rear diff is the same size plus the rear leafs are counter to act as built in sway bars. The truck can hang I assure you.

I would go loadmaster over 4w...and electric drum over surge anything. If the trailer gets squirly you tap controller to gain control. If driving in rain I would WAy rather have electric stops. Simple. Ask any trucker if they want brakes the can control or surge.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

Even though it's more expensive, the only electric brakes I'd use here are electric over hydraulic, they are made to be marine rated, the electric drums you can buy for trailers are really just RV brakes, and ultimately they will corrode. Raw cast iron, non stainless springs, etc.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II