www.iFourWinns.com

I am replacing the disc brakes (and hubs) on my trailer and am trying to decide between 2 brake sets. I have a tandem axle trailer with surge brakes on one axle (3,500 lb axles), 14" rims and 205/70/R14 tires (also to be replaced soon). If it matters, my tongue/actuator is a TieDown Engineering 70LP which I don't intend to replace. I have narrowed my choices down to two options in my price range. With current promotions, both options will cost around the same. The two options I have are the Tiedown G5 and the Kodiak SS/Dacromet brakes. I am leaning towards the TieDown G5 since it is all stainless (caliper and rotor) while the Kodiak disc is "Dacromet" coated (stainless caliper). I'm not sure what Dacromet is but I know it isn't stainless. The Kodiak has what appears to be a two-sided vented rotor while the TieDown has a single ventilated rotor. I'm not sure which one is "better". Most of my trips to the lake will be around 1 hour round trip with the occasional 2-hour round trip if I go to another lake. I intend to use my boat only in fresh water (maybe once a year in salt water but lost likely exclusively fresh water). Does anyone have any experience/preference with these brands that may help me make my decision? Thanks for your help.

Kodiak HRCM-10-DAC-SS (Dacromet (non-SS) coated hub, rotor, and mounting bracket, stainless caliper)): http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/index.php?option=com_productbook&func=detail&Itemid=51&id=8

TieDown G5 (all stainless steel except for galvanized hub and mounting bracket): http://products.tiedown.com/viewitems/trailer-brakes/g5-stainless-steel-disc-brakes?

You'll hear a lot of criticism of Tie-Down, but all my components are from them and I've never had the slightest trouble. I do have 2-sided vented rotors though and would prefer to stay that way.

My rotors are e-coated, and I've had no issues with corrosion. According to Kodiak, whatever Dacromet is, is a step up from e-coating. So of those two choices, the Kodiak might be the better way to go.

Are you replacing brake lines? Steel or rubber?

If I were doing this, I'd give electric brakes a hard look. But that's easy for me to say since it's not me.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks for the feedback. I have a rubber line from the actuator to just past the break away tongue then a steel brake line running to the rear of the trailer that I thought I would keep in place and use new rubber lines from the existing steel line in the rear to the new brakes. I want to stick with the hydraulic surge brakes to avoid additional cost......I've been spending way too much money this season on this boat and trailer.

BOAT - break out another thousand.... FW trailers are junk so don't expect to get away cheaply...Sorry

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2008 H220 Frenzy - 5.7L VP SX Drive
2013 Tahoe LTZ Tow Vehicle (admiral's ride)
2011 Ford F150 XLT Ecoboost Tow Vehicle

What brakes did it have on it to begin with? What year trailer? The stainless Tie Downs are pretty new and not much is known about them, I think they got a bad rap because the calipers on their first gen stainless brakes self-destructed (galvinism) in salt water. The later models with the vented rotors seem much better, and I noticed that they came standard on both Load Rites and Ventures. It looks like the stainless TD's and the vented TDs use the same or a very similar caliper. I did some measurements on my trailer, thinking of putting discs on it a few years ago, and I found that the Kodiaks needed quite a bit more clearance for the calipers to clear the trailer frame than the vented Tie Downs. So first you might want to take some measurements. I know on my trailer the TDs would work but not the Kodiaks.

BTW, I have been able to make drums last a pretty long time in salt by some simple tricks, I pack the area under the rubber boot for the wheel cylinder with synthetic caliper grease and I also grease the threads on the adjuster and the pivot points with OMC/Bombardier triple guard grease. Doing that I have not had trouble with them. I like drum brakes in a surge application because the strong return springs allow them to run a lot cooler than discs. I measured my temps in normal driving at 90* at the hub, and my Jeeps rear discs were at 115* (normal suburban driving). Also drums are self energizing, and work better with lighter trailers. Keep in mind that in an auto application discs have to use a power booster even on a light car, whereas drums do not.
They also have a larger area of friction surface (shoes vs pads) than discs.

In your case if the trailer originally came with the TD vented rotors, I'd stick with that, esp if there is not much clearance between the calipers and the trailer frame.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

jacknbella - At the rate I've been spending, I have a BOAST (break out another several thousand). I just bought the boat in October (my first if you don't count the one I bought just 2 months earlier). Right now, the boat is in the shop having the bottom paint and engine paint removed, gelcoat reworked, and new decals installed. They are waiting to get the trailer back from me so they can install new bunks. The trailer is in my garage getting cleaned for painting and then I will install new springs, hubs and brakes. The previous owner kept the boat in salt water and only had snap-in bow and cockpit covers so the exterior is pretty bad and the trailer brakes and springs were rusted up badly (as well as most of the bolts). Of course, I knew all of this when I bought it and factored it into my offer.

LouC-
The trailer is a 2005 FW trailer and came equipped with TD vented rotors. They were so badly rusted, I'm not sure they even worked. Maybe I'm wrong but I thought the surface of the rotors would have been shiny from friction/use (like my car). These rotors were rusted from top to bottom. I hadn't considered the clearance issue and will check that out. I think you are correct about the calipers being the same on the vented and stainless TDs (at least they look identical to me). I won't be using the trailer in salt water much, if at all. If I do, after seeing what salt water can do to the trailer and brakes, I will spend a lot of time rinsing the trailer and brakes down afterwards.

Was it previously a salt water boat? Bottom paint and lots of corrosion on the trailer would suggest that. If so make sure you check the exhaust risers and manifolds, if they rust out or clog up with rust you can have big problems. I am in salt so I'm used to this stuff.
Back to the brakes, I seem to recall that on the Kodaik website there were measurements, for clearance. Check it out.
I replaced so much on my boat I think I lost track of the costs but it is 24 years old. New deck, stringer repair, all new seating, covers, etc. Now finally its getting painted in Imron so I don't have to ride around in a pink boat.
Just bust out several thousand....

but a new one stickers at 52 grand, and has less room inside, and you can't get at anything on the engine. My old one is much roomier inside and the engine is easy to get at.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

90, were the rotors just surface rusted, or really torn up and pitted? Any rotor can get a thin layer of surface rust if they sit long enough without moving. It sounds like the originals were the same as mine.

Is the trailer the plain painted steel version? If so and it's a saltwater boat, I would give that trailer a VERY careful look before spending any money on it, vs. replacing the whole trailer. I don't say that because "FW trailers are junk" as some believe (I don't), but because a plain painted trailer, regardless of maker, should never be used in saltwater.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

It was previously a salt/brackish water boat and I did have everything checked out pretty well. The boat has a fresh water cleaning system (factory install) so the previous owner must have used it pretty regularly. The rotors, calipers, hubs, springs, u-bolts, and any bolt on the trailer were all rusted pretty badly (more than surface rust). I've had to cut some of the bolts off since I couldn't break them loose. Some other bolts sheared off rather than the nut coming loose. Since the boat is off the trailer getting worked on, I thought it best to bite the bullet now and replace everything so I can start fresh. The trailer is galvanized but had a heavy coating of what looked like calcified salt on it....not sure what it is but after several hours with an angle grinder and a wire cup, I've managed to get everything off and get down to a fairly clean galvanized finish. Next, I intend to etch prime it and spray it with a truck bedliner paint. I know the primer and paint aren't really necessary but the trailer looked kind of crappy under the boat so I've pushed common sense aside and am tackling this project. I got estimates to have it coated from Armorguard and Line-X but they wanted way more than I wanted to spend. I'm using a bedliner product called Raptor which I got from an automotive paint supply house and had it tinted to match the boat. I'll post pics once I get it finished (which won't be soon enough for me). I considered replacing the entire trailer but the trailer itself is sound....I'm not sure why some may think the FW trailers are junk. Mine seems well made to me.

If its a galvanized trailer, consider spraying it with cold galvanizing spray. Truck bedliner type sprays are not rust proof and if there is any rust under it, the rust will spread. Those coatings are really just to keep the painted truck bed from getting all chipped.
When you replace the running gear, smear marine wheel bearing grease on the springs, all over the threads of bolts, on any fastener. Then flush it good after you take it out of the water. I spray all the roller bars, all the fasteners with Corrosion X or similar 2x a season. That kept most of the fasteners I replaced (basically all of them except the ones for the crossmembers) rust free for the past 5- 8 years since I rebuilt it.

Again, the manifolds and risers should be checked. If you see rust trails emanating from the gasket between the riser and manifold, there could be water leaking in from the joint to the cylinder which will cause big problems. Another sign of trouble is the risers getting very hot, that means they are starting to clog.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II