i was going to replace the block,the internal parts are all in good shape,if i rebuilt it,it would be a complete motor from airfilter to pan with the risers,motor mounts,flywheel,belhousing and whatever else i dont need for the chevy swap. if i put 1000 in it and get 2000 out,thats 1000 towards the chevy swap,:-) the motor is out,but the drive is still bolted up to the transom,it was like that when i got it,as far as i can tell,the transom looks ok,ill pull the drive as soon as i have a chance,and look at it again,the engine bay was coated with an epoxy sealler from the factory,it wasnt just fiberglass over wood like some ive seen,where you can still see the wood thru the glass coating,mine looks like yours where its all grey with the sealer on it. where the stringers were rotted/soft was where the motor mounts bolted to the stringer and under the floors where the ful tank sat,,some of the floors area has soft spots as well but i was planning on replaceing the floors/stringers/from the cubby to the transom,will be a lot of work but ill feel better knowing its all replaced,ill have to get some picture of the area and post them as soon as i find out how to, what type of plywood/wood and resins did you use to replace your stringers,a local lumber yard(lowes) has marine grade plywood(green tint) and lots of untreated types, and different types of fiberglass resines,i would like to buy localy to save time and money, they have an elmers fiberglass resin that i use a lot and its not all that expensive,how would i find out if it will work in a marine application. thanks again for the info and responces,mike
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