www.iFourWinns.com

Add in the fact that we didn't really have a summer, and I'm not buying the whole global warming theory yet. If Lake Michigan ever get to 75 degrees, I'm a believer. We were still able to get out 2-3 times a week and was only shut out this past weekend.

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

If you are worried about freezing, I would just make sure the block is properly drained, then backfilled with the lowest temp rated non-toxic antifreeze you can find. Thousands of boats are stored this way around here every year, and we see temps of -35 deg C in January/February (geeze, I just got cold thinking of that). Stored this way, everything should be safe and sound.

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2009 H180 w/3.0 Merc
Homebuilt Minimax Hydro
2011 Zodiac Cadet 310

If my read is right, we're talking about protecting the engine and drive from freezing late into the season. In following the posts, I do not see where folks identify if they are trailering or slipping. Huge difference, folks up here tell me even late in the season if you keep the leg submerged, the block will not freeze. If the water doesn't freeze, the block won't either. From what I understand when trailering, to damage a block at least 24 hours of temps below freezing are required. Same rule of thumb I go by with my cottage that has above ground plumbing and no insulation or foundation. Out of the water I've used a 60W light bulb in the engine compartment with good results when temps dropped well into the 20's overnight. But for a cold snap with temps below freezing for 2 or 3 days, I'd want complete winterization for peace of mind.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

It's true that the water temperature will have a lot of effect on a boat that's kept in it. Pull the boat out onto a trailer and you're at the mercy of ambient air temps.

That said, given how freakin' expensive it is to replace a motor, why take unnecessary risks? Anti-freeze is CHEAP in comparison. If you want to maintain the notion of being able to use the boat "more" then recognize it'll be worth added effort to undo and redo the winterizing. You may find the desire to "use" the boat never quite lives up to the reality. But you can bet your wallet a freeze will ruin the engine just when you don't have enough time to get it done properly. Or power will go out on the docks.

I don't see the logic to gambling with this.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Depending on your engine access it doesn't take that long to drain the engine....if I had a new engine I'd for sure put in closed cooling partly for the corrosion protection...but the other benefit is that it's so much easier to winterize...even with a half system you then just drain the manifolds/risers and heat exchanger/raw water pump/lines...
For me I'd have to flush it first because its raw water cooled in salt water...you don't want to drain salt water in the bilge! (manifold above the starter drains all over the starter...I cover it with a plastic bag). So when I winterize it in Oct that's it I'm done...if we get a nice day I walk down to the beach and go fishing....or if I just have to get out on the water....I have a 10 foot Walker Bay dinghy on the beach that I can row around....maybe I'll pick up a little 2 stroke ob for just for that purpose....

That's one reason why people here like outboards...put the engine down...it drains...done....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II