Paul I. wrote:
Wylie_Tunes wrote:
RaveOn,
The term "isolator" is kind of a loose term, as there are may types. Continuous-Duty solenoids, diode type, auto-combining/voltage sensing relay, and a good old manual dual bank switch. Given the reference to a 10 year old car system, im gathering you have a continuous-duty solenoid. This is my least favorite means to isolate a house bank from the main, yet allowing it to receive a charge from the alternator. Matter of fact, any isolator that doesnt allow me to use the house bank and an emergency starting bank, is my least favorite way. With that said, those types of isolators do function as intended.
When batteries are located on the engine bay/bilge area, I prefer a circuit breaker over a traditional car audio fuse holder.
Don't take me the wrong way! A "auto-combining/voltage sensing relay" thats a combiner not an isolator. But one might say, it depands on how its used? So knowing what you have is important and how it works.
If you are in the "engine bay/bilge area". Your breaker and fuse needs to be ignition protected. Most fuses are not and breakers more commonly are.
Thats why I opened with "loose term" in describing an isolator. An ACR/VSR is most certainly a type of isolator. When draw is high, the relay opens and isolates the two banks from each other. When the draw is low and the alternator is providing a charger, the relay closes, combining the banks so both receive a charge. So, all though they do combine, they also isolate. Some can even be controlled manually.
Being I/P is kinda stating the obvious. Thats why I like breakers, because waterproof ignition protected breakers are easy to source in a wide range of amps, where as a standard automotive will not be I/P. Some claim to be waterproof, but dont hold your breath and dont expect it to last long in a boat used in salt or brackish waters.