www.iFourWinns.com

It did sound just fine to me, though I'm no audiophile. I don't think its a brand problem, I think it's a bad wiring problem. On the other hand I guess while I have taken apart all the stereo related areas and wiring, now would be the time to upgrade.

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2005 Horizon 250

I'm not a big fan of the Clarion speakers, but my XMD3 and Clarion amp have been very good. Even the speakers sounded decent, until they began to just quit working.

My system was installed at the factory and I would think yours probably was too.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Maybe I am talking out of turn, or failed to read something from all the past postings!! IF so, SORRY. I am reading into this problem and I think ric is right "You're troubleshooting everything but what the real problem"

First off, I would always turn the batteries off when leaving the boat. Now you are stating that only the bow speakers are working. So the head is powering the bow speakers. The amp is not turning on to power the rest of them. That only leaves about 2 things, remember too "The amp works when I supply power externally." but you are not stating how you powered it. Bad, Neg or Pos wire (could be disconneted when the new battery went in), blown fuse (which you have checked).

The auto power lead (not sure what to call it) is good because the amp did turn on. The tone generators are a great tool, but make sure you disconnect the end of the wire you are working with from any thing else. If not, it may bring the signal down, making if hard to find. If you did leave the wire on the amp, disconnect it & try again to find the other end. Sometimes it is easier to run a new wire, capping off the old one and be done with it. I would connect it to the common side of the battery switch and of course, fuse it.

Thanks Paul. Yeah I usually (and now always) turn the batteries to off when leaving the boat.
The external battery source I used to test the amp was indeed another marine battery that a friend had, 12v/27 same as my new one. I just connected a wire from it to the amp power lead screw and the sound nicely was restored. I also have connected a stretch of wire from the amp to the existing batteries' power at the battery selector box and that works perfectly well. I'm going to just run a new 10 gauge wire with an in line 40 amp fuse. Because there are already too many wires connected at the battery terminals (4 or 5), I thought I might just connect at the same lead as the starter power wire that comes off the battery selector switch, just to simplify and not overcrowd the terminals. Does this seem reasonable? I would then just remove the fuse from the old wire and cap it. I guess my only worry is that I have not been able to identify where the old wire does actually connect with power (either at the starter maybe, or just ties into another hot wire somewhere?)and if therefore just keeping the old wire in place, though inactivated, presents any risks or problems. It seems all the other electrical systems are working fine.

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2005 Horizon 250

Yes, your train of thought seams to be right!! Of course, you are there & I am not. What I did too, was to add a Neg buss and a fuse box. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=191921

Or even something like this, but I like to have it fused. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=742301

It cuts down with connecting too many wires at any one piont, as in the common side of the battery switch.

I finally installed the new power and ground wires yesterday. 8 gauge wire, with proper tinned copper wire and connectors. The ground attaches at the negative terminal of one battery, and the power wire attaches at the battery selector switch, at the terminal that the starter wire connects with. Works perfectly. The in lone fuse holder also nicely is screwed onto the same panel the selector switch is on, and covered by the case that covers up the selector switch wiring. Very satisfying that it actually works.

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2005 Horizon 250