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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:54 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
Getting ready to go out, went to take the boat to get gas. hit a bump and BAM! Trailer fell off the ball and Hit the ground. I slowed to a stop and the trailer sprang forward, striking the back of the SUV.

It was my thought that the brake cable - which was attached - should have prevented this. The cable actually snapped where it attaches to the trailer. Not to mention that the hitch pin, which had apparently fallen out (i remember securing it but it was out after the accident, and when we went to test it, it pushed and pulled out like nothing secured it in) should have kept the trailer on the ball, and if it failed and the trailer fell (like it did) then the brake cable should have engaged the trailer brakes and stopped the trailer from rolling forward. Am I incorrect?

And where does the brake cable attach to the trailer? I see a small flange underneath with a hole in it right behind the hitch - or does that cable run into the trailer body further?

Luckily no apparent damage to boat. Back of SUV pushed in about 4-5" - broken taillights from where boat hit the car. But no cracks noted in gelcoat or anywhere else, just a dinged up rubrail.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 6:31 pm 
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Ouch....

Where your breakaway cable attaches depends on what kind of brake actuator you have. From what you describe, it sounds like you may have identified the correct spot where it connects - it should be a part that can move when pulled, engaging the brakes.

Post a pic of your trailer set up.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 7:38 pm 
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Actually the safety chains are supposed to keep the trailer tongue from hitting the ground, the brake emergency cable is not strong enough for that. You are supposed to hook them up in an 'X' pattern underneath the coupler to keep it from hitting the ground. So if the chains held and the brake cable did not break it may have been able to apply the brakes...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:16 pm 
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Location: Lititz, PA
On my LP 7000 actuator, the brake cable runs into the actuator and around the master cylinder. It compresses the cylinder and a locking mechanism holds the master cylinder rods in the "closed" position engaging the brakes. The hole I think you are describing under the tongue is where you release the master cylinder from the locked position in the event that the cable is pulled. Instead of the lock pin, I use an actual tongue lock because I was concerned that the pin would fall out (did not seem to be securely held in place). I have a lock like this:
http://www.masterlock.com/personal-use/product/2847DAT

Sorry to hear of your troubles. Had to be terrifying.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:18 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:24 am 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
This is the one i have:
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The cable appears to have snapped midway through the mechanism. Now to figure out how I can safely take it somewhere to be repaired. I will definitely be investing in one of those locking hitch pins.

Trying to upload pictures of everything but my phone does not want to cooperate with my computer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=139&v=qq7uBniFZ6g

Youtube on how to remove the actuator... So I remember where it is.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:19 am 
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I also have the 70LP and just changed my master cylinder-
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=14335

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:40 am 
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this is why i use locking receiver pen and ball latch lock

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 10:07 am 
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Not only that; I taught my son to do this as part of teaching him to drive with trailers:
After you have latched the coupler latch, get down and look underneath to verify that the coupler flange is actually covering the ball.
Locks are great but first you have to get down and see with your own eyes that it's really properly latched.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:31 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
Well the boat and trailer are getting a once over as well. Anything I should make sure they take a look at? The bow went into the back of the Durango -
Image
image hosting over 5mb

What I can figure is that the hitch of the trailer hit the ground, then the safety cables/brake cable grabbed it and brought the nose up as I was stopping, and between the brake cable snapping and the safety cables rubber banding - drove it into the back. I have not checked the skeg or prop, but I don't think it bottomed out on the back.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:25 am 
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fi.na.tine wrote:
Well the boat and trailer are getting a once over as well. Anything I should make sure they take a look at? The bow went into the back of the Durango -
Image
image hosting over 5mb

What I can figure is that the hitch of the trailer hit the ground, then the safety cables/brake cable grabbed it and brought the nose up as I was stopping, and between the brake cable snapping and the safety cables rubber banding - drove it into the back. I have not checked the skeg or prop, but I don't think it bottomed out on the back.

This looks like a normal result of the hitch coming off the ball. The safety chains are meant to keep the rig attached to the vehicle, so it won't hit anyone else, but as soon as you apply brakes on the tow vehicle, it is going to ram into the back. If the safety chains are crossed under the tongue, then the trailer will stay more centered, but would still do bumper damage and/or tailgate damage if the bow reaches the tailgate.

The break-away cable is meant to be a last ditch safety to apply braking to the trailer in the case that the rig completely separates from the vehicle (including the safety chains). This would hopefully stop the trailer before it hit another vehicle or building. I don't think you should expect it to do anything at all in the situation you had where the rig was still retained by the safety chains. The only way to minimize the damage is to be super easy on the brakes as you bring the vehicle and trailer to a stop.

Ideally, the break-away brake cable should be hooked to the vehicle somewhere else besides the hitch...so that it would do it's job even if the entire hitch assembly came off the vehicle.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 2:28 am 
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If you can post some pics of that hitch as you hook it up. Hard to tell from the pic you posted, but the ball latch doesn't look to be all the way down. I have same setup and mine goes down farther and I slide the thumb buster on top of it to lock it down...then slide the pin in. In essence its double locked.

I can't get it locked down if tongue is pushed in, which looks like how yours is in the pic. A side view would answer this unless your sure its locked in. As Lou said..if the lower jaw isn't in place all the locking pins don't matter.i can't see the slide lock and pin both failing unless you had a big impact.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:52 am 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
I was coming around a corner when it happened. The pin moved pretty freely after the accident - so smoothly it "could" have fallen out.

The picture is after the accident and I had moved it back home. It was on securely (guarantee you I checked it several times before I moved again) and the pin had shimmied over again during just the trip back so that just the tip was sticking out.

I had backed the trailer up square and lowered the jack on the trailer, it went into the receiver and snapped into place.

My neighbor came over and said that obviously my chains (cables) are too long, as it let the tongue hit the ground instead of catching it.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2006 4:17 pm
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Location: Reno, Nevada
I always use a keyed lock to secure the hitch pin in the receiver and a second keyed lock for the safety pin on the hitch release. It is a bother to do this, but I never worry about something "slipping" out of place or deliberate tampering while in parking lots and gas stations. The trailer is essentially locked onto the truck. If you had used locks on the receiver pin and the optional pin used to secure the hitch release, this may not have happened. Push on and pull off clips to secure essential parts holding the trailer to the vehicle are more prone to omission and tampering. But you accident is a little unusual. Are you sure the ball was fully set into the hitch? If I do not pull ahead a inch or so the ball does not always set to the full depth and it only looks like it is attached while resting on top of the ball.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:23 pm 
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Rpengr nailed it.

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