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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 1:19 pm 
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Damn, thats a big OB!!

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 3:10 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
same power as a V8 and approx 400 lbs less weight on the stern...
it has to have better performance....

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:51 am 
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That I can appreciate. I guess the chevy long block is just old tech :(

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 6:56 am 
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Location: Ontario
GM engineers have been poking fun at Mercruisers tech, or lack there of, for some time now.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 10:00 am 
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Location: Riva, Maryland
What were the boss' impressions of the HD270 with the new Mercruiser 6.2L 350HP sterndrive (which was in the HD270SS pictured) ???[/quote]

He didn't have a chance to ride in the I/O version. With the time available he was most interested in the O/B. He isn't a big O/B fan but came away really impressed by the 270 O/B due to the performance and all the storage inboard. We will have our factory rep at Annapolis and hopefully he'll have at least preliminary performance reports for the new models.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:51 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
blue dragon wrote:
That I can appreciate. I guess the chevy long block is just old tech :(


The difference really is that an I/O is an adapted automotive engine and as such it is not really built for the ultimate in light weight and high performance. So for engines of equal horsepower, an I/O will usually weigh in at close to double what an OB weighs. And all that weight is on the stern.
Here are a few more points. The GM small block design is a good deal simpler than a modern 4 stroke outboard. So if you keep your boat long enough to need to do more involved repairs, the inboard engine will for sure be cheaper and easier to repair. That's the plus side of the traditional I/O. But as I have said many times, the added maintenance that the I/O needs especially if it is kept in the water gets expensive if you can't do it yourself. Just the anti fouling paint for the drive, is over $100 and that doesn't include that I pay $400 to get the bottom done. (I'll do the drive not the bottom, that's where I draw the line). But all the other maintenance I've done myself all these years, so I can easily see how many in all coastal regions will prefer OBs.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 12:29 pm 
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Couple questions and yes I am fresh water only, so I appreciate the salt user concerns.

1. I assume the OB fun ship doesn't include water sports. No tow hook on that boat that I see. So you buy a tow harness, but where do you hook it....dive in and under water?

2. So you have to buy a tower or mount a floor stressing tow pole. Then every time you slow or turn you have a rope tangled or hanging on motor.

3. I'm no engineer, but even though the OB is lighter ALL of the weight is hanging off the rear. From the one I've owned the ass drags on hard acceleration. These have been fishing rigs but not desireable in pleasure boats either. Fine for casual cruising but not good if you want any decent use in water sports. That's why most add motor jacks and tabs to their boats....to try and keep the ass end up.

4. Throwing the prop that far behind the boat kills the manueverabilty of the boat. Especially at low speed...takes wider turns. Granted, my experiance had been on shallow running semi V models, which will skid in the water anyway.

Again, if your just looking for something to cruise around or fish from then OB will perform great. But if you want to use your boat for more water involved fun such as swimming and using the rear deck, tubing, skiing and boarding I would suggest trying an OB for these during the trial before I bought it, cuz I'm thinking you will be very enlightened.

Final thought....that OB hanging off the back of these type boats just looks like crap to me, but that's just my impression. I agree the V Drive would be an awesome option.

Yes its better in the maintenance category by a long shot. The cost of a Merc 350 is around TWENTYFIVETHOUSANDAMERICANDOLLARS plus tax and they do break down like everything else.....they eight less cuz they are smaller, finely tuned running machines. ADD ethanol gum to the equation and then talk maintenance. Bud had twins that were constantly out of sync due to tuning issues caused by ethanol.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:38 am 
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TX H210SS wrote:
1. I assume the OB fun ship doesn't include water sports. No tow hook on that boat that I see. So you buy a tow harness, but where do you hook it....dive in and under water?

2. So you have to buy a tower or mount a floor stressing tow pole. Then every time you slow or turn you have a rope tangled or hanging on motor.


Tow/ski Pylon. Integrated into the design of the boat. Look at pics of the H180OB. I'm sure they put something similar on the new deck boats. My 2004 has one and it works great. Never had any issues towing with it. Also with towers being all the rage, I'm not sure this comes into play with boarding.

Quote:
3. I'm no engineer, but even though the OB is lighter ALL of the weight is hanging off the rear. From the one I've owned the ass drags on hard acceleration. These have been fishing rigs but not desireable in pleasure boats either. Fine for casual cruising but not good if you want any decent use in water sports. That's why most add motor jacks and tabs to their boats....to try and keep the ass end up.


False. 1000 lbs near the transom or 500 lbs just aft of the transom is still 500 lbs less on the rear of the boat. A properly designed boat should pop out of the water under hard acceleration. What I've experienced is that my boat with OB hops on plane with barely any bow rise. Compare that to many similar boats with I/O and my boat is far quicker to plane.

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4. Throwing the prop that far behind the boat kills the manueverabilty of the boat. Especially at low speed...takes wider turns. Granted, my experiance had been on shallow running semi V models, which will skid in the water anyway.


??? Not sure how that even makes sense. Put a prop/rudder at the middle of the boat and it would do essentially nothing to change course. Put it at the end and you have a decent lever to work with.

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The cost of a Merc 350 is around TWENTYFIVETHOUSANDAMERICANDOLLARS plus tax and they do break down like everything else.....


Again, this doesn't make sense. Price out a Mercruiser "big block" or similar with a Bravo drive. This would give you roughly equivalent performance. You need the whole package to compare apples to apples. Parts can be replaced on an outboard just like a I/O. If it breaks you don't have to replace the whole thing.

Also, Mercruiser is getting away from using GM motors. They have a new V6 and V8 the are not GM based. They make them. Parts costs, repair costs etc. are really not any cheaper on current fuel injected catalyzed modern I/Os.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:10 pm 
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The Bill is in on my brothers Yamaha 300 four stroke repair.... It had cowling damage and some assorted expensive top end part damage due to a lift mishap. $ 7,500.00...the cost of repairs on out board motors can be expensive....it was 4,000 to repair the twin 250s due to ethanol.

I have worked on and rebuilt several motors but have to say that outboards are like looking at a fine tuned high power sewing machine. I like them and own one and have used them...when running great they are awesome, but they are temperamental and when something goes awry, you will swear your chasing a ghost.....for saltwater use they are a great option cuz they don't hold water...for fishing they give you needed room at the stern and are shallow running with Jack plates.....for water sports and activity in and out of water at the stern the are least desirable.

Its not a Ford or Chevy debate...it's a truck or sedan decision on which to get...it depends on how you plan to use your boat the most and where you plan to use it. For me a V Drive would be ideal.....deep fresh water use with emphasis on water aces and towing boarders.

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