www.iFourWinns.com

Hi guys -

I've never owned a power boat before, so this is my first year having to winterize an engine -- and I am clueless.

I have a 1988 Sundowner 205 with a 5.7 OMC engine and Cobra outdrive. It is cooled by water intake (I use mouse ears to flush or operate on the trailer).

Could someone give me a step by step guide to preparing the engine for winter? I know I'm supposed to flush and fill with antifreeze, but no place I can find tells you exactly how this is done. Do I use the mouse ears? Won't that leak antifreeze all over the ground (the ears aren't 100% water tight)? Same with fogging the engine -- do I do this before I flush? If I do it after, won't all the antifreeze get shot out? If I do it before, won't flushing the engine afterwards nullify the fogging (or does it not mattewr if the engine runs for a few minutes after fogging)?

As you can see, I need somne basic instructions.
I live in New England, and it gets C-O-L-D here in the winter. I would very much appreciate any help.

Thanks!

David, since this is your first boat I would suggest having it winterized by the dealer or a professional service will offer freeze protection. If you miss something you could be out of alot of $$. When the dealer does the work should something break due to freezing the dealer is responsible to repair any freeze damage. I would have them service the stern drive as well. That includes checking your engine alignment,lubing the gimbal bearing and u-joints and changing the oil in the lower unit. The cost for the following should be around $200.

1. Change engine oil and filter.
2. Fog engine.
3. Stablize the fuel.
4. Freeze protect engine block and everything related to engine.
5. Pull stern drive to check for water intrusion & engine alignment.
6. Lube gimbal bearing and u-joints.
7. Change oil in lower unit.

My first year I had the dealer do the work, now I do everything myself except for pulling the stern drive. I have the dealer pull the drive every other year. In the Spring I change the spark plugs and fuel filter. Another concern is the impeller for the fresh water pump. Your boat has two water pumps. One is just like the water pump on you car or truck. The other pumps the water from your stern drive to your engine. This pump requires service because the impeller will fail in time. I change mine every 2 to 3 years and always keep a spare on the boat. Hope this helps!

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Fred 248Vista
So much water so little time!

Hey David, Fred offered some good advice. But if you are willing, it isn't that difficult. Here are the steps in order.

1) Add recommended amout of stabilizer to gas tank
2) Run engine for 10 min at idle
3) Change engine oil and filter
4) Change water seperator/fuel filter (if it exists)
5) Run engine again a spray fogging oil into carb slowly at first, then fast to stall engine. (half can will do one engine)
6) Check engine oil level, top off if needed
7) Drain water from manifold (one brass plug each) and drain engine block (one or two petcocks per side)
Pull lower end of water hoses to drain water
9) Turn engine over with key for 1 or two seconds to expel water from water pump
10) Reinstall all petcocks and hoses removed from draining
11) Remove thermostat housing carefully to save gasket
12) Fill block with anti-freeze (approx. 2 1/2 gallons)
13) Reinstall thermostat housing
14) Remove manifold hoses from thermostat housing and fill with anti-freeze using a funnel.
15) Drain lower unit and refill
16) Empty boats water tank with demand pump
17) Empty water heater (adding a bypass kit is worth the $15)
18) Add non-toxic anti-freeze to water tank
19) Run water thru all faucets until pink appears
20) Sponge out bilges, shower sumps ect..
21) Place intake hose for toilet into anti-freeze jug and operate flush, reinstall hose
22) Pour another gallon of anti-freeze into toilet and flush (keeps the remaining waste tank content from freezing). Hopefully you had the waste tank pumped and flushed while still in the water!
23) If you have air conditioning, remove intake hose and add anti-freeze with a funnel while someone activates the system. Add anti-freeze until it comes out your thru hull and reinstall hose
24) Grease outdrive zerk fittings
25) Store with outdrive in full down position
26) Remove battery

That's it. Sounds like alot but probably 4 hours of labor your first time. Your main goal is to remove all the water so think it through as you proceed. In the spring just check for engine block leaks on your initial start-up. Good luck!

Thanks for the replies, guys.

I'm seriously considering having a dealer do it. Something curious, though -- I have one dealer who says "we drain the water out of the manifold, but there's no need to fill it with anti freeze" and I have another dealer saying, "we fill with antifreeze but there is no need to fog an inboard/outboard engine (only outboards need do be fogged)." They said they'd do it if I wanted, buit they never do it. What do you think of this?

Jak - I don' t have any other sytems to worry about beside the engine (no plumbing -- it's just a Sundowner 205), so that saves me a little time, I guess. Will all of the parts you mention -- petcocks, hoses, pumps, etc -- be apparent when looking at the engine with the cover off? It's an awfully tight space around the engine, and I don't see how it would be possible to access anything too far down or on the underside of the engine.

Thanks again.

David

Some folks don't add anti-freeze to the manifolds and some don't fog engines either. I personally like to do both for the same reason...corrosion protection. The anti-freeze gives you corrosion protection same as lubing the engine internals with fogging oil.

My Vista 328 has 5.7's with Volvo outdrives. Assuming same engine? I remove the one plug from the rear of each manifold and have one petcock per side of engine block. It's about half way back on the block, between the spark plugs and the oil pan. If you give a good look you will see them. They are brass / bronze in color. As for hoses, I'm not familiar with OMC, mine I pull 3 hoses. The larger 2-inch engine water pump hose and 2 smaller hoses at the raw water impeller housing.

I lucked out and got a heated storage area for the winter at a really decent price. The temperature is set at a constant 50 degrees. I'm going to run anti freeze in the engine anyway and also in the water system. There is electricity available so I'll be able to charge the batteries while on board. Any advice on this situation or should I do more? I plan to take it to the mechanic in the spring before I put it back in the water. I also have the fuel stabilizer in the tank.

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Alexj



1995 Four Winns Horizon 190
OMC 5.0 RL

Sounds like you are covered Alex even if the heat fails. I would still change the engine oil/filter and lower unit.

Heated storage is great. Had the same last winter as part of boat purchase. This year they were asking $2994. Found indoor cold and winterized myself for less than $200. Couldn't justify the added expense, especially after replacing the lousy tops and enclosures that Four Winns put on their boats.

The first year I had my Vista winterized I watched the dealer do it. They didn't mind just as long as I stayed out of way. Their method to freeze protect the engine was to circulate the antifreeze through the engine. They ran the engine with antifreeze being pumped into the sterndrive. The antifreeze made a pass through the engine and was collected in a large pan which the pump picked up and recirculated till the engine temp was hot enough to open the thermostat. This way appealed to me because you don't have to remove any hoses,ect. It also left the engine full of antifreeze to help prevent rust.

The next year I purchased a small pump from Graingers and made up my own system. I had a large plastic tool box made for a pick-up truck(the kind that you see that spans the entire width of the bed) that I wasn't using and converted it into a catch pan. I test the antifreeze coming out of the engine and make sure it's good to -30 F. My boat is stored in Northern Michigan and it's get really cold. After doing this for several years I would recommend this method to anyone not wanting to pull hoses apart. I keep the same antifreeze for next season and just add couple of fresh gallons of antifreeze to keep the mix strong. Since the antifreeze is toxic I flush out the engine in the Spring before my first launch. If someone is interested in making up a system like mine I would be happy to go into greater detail.

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Fred 248Vista
So much water so little time!

Seeing as how it's a lot cheaper to put in the fogging or antifreeze than it is to replace an engine I can't see why anyone would skimp on either. Even if you're in a heated garage there's still the chance of power going out long enough to crack a block. And for what, to save a hundred bucks, no thanks!

We keep ours in heated storage. $770 for the 6 month season. Some run antifreeze through the motor, change oil, sta-bil etc. some do not.

It's up to you to decide. I know our storage facility has back up generators, insurance to cover a power outage, so I am not worried. I could go on, but it will just get ugly if I do. Good luck whatever method you choose.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

I also have changed the oil, oil filter, lower unit oil and gas filter. I think it's worth it even in a heated garage. I save the $$ on shrink wrap, fall winterization, etc. All total, I save about $500.

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Alexj



1995 Four Winns Horizon 190
OMC 5.0 RL

I am lucky to have a underground limestone mine about 20 miles from my home that they use for storage. There are about 2500 other vehicles from class A motor homes to concession trailers and everything in between. It is a constant 56 degrees with no chance of freezing. I still winterize to prevent corrorsion and piece of mind in case we get a cold snap after I take it out of storage. Only cost $210 for the season.

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Inboard, outboard, onboard never bored
KUT 'N LOOSE
'99 258 VISTA

Underground caverns! Wow, that's pretty convenient. Sort of eliminates the whole argument about a trailer boat being a driveway eyesore. And you've certainly no risk of UV fading!

I decided to let the pros do it this time. I'll be storing outside (covered) over a long, cold, New England winter, so I told them to fog the cylinders AND fill with antifreeze.

Thanks for all your help.

DC