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Battery #2 issues
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Author:  Paul I. [ Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

The cable to the starter should be good, but it is 20 years old. Your call, but if you are going to get your hands dirty, it would not hurt. On 2nd thought, leave it alone until you resolve the main problem. You don't want to introduce a new problem. Then replace it.

Use this site, MUCH cheaper than W.M. http://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/

I make up my own or you can buy them premade from this site.

Author:  Technologic80 [ Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

Paul I. wrote:
The cable to the starter should be good, but it is 20 years old. Your call, but if you are going to get your hands dirty, it would not hurt. On 2nd thought, leave it alone until you resolve the main problem. You don't want to introduce a new problem. Then replace it.

Use this site, MUCH cheaper than W.M. http://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/

I make up my own or you can buy them premade from this site.


What gauge is recommended? I definitely want the next size bigger than what is on there now.

Author:  Paul I. [ Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

I don't know what you have now. If the runs are short, I would go with #2, if longer than 5 feet, go with #1. If you have the money, use all #1 wire.

Author:  rjrose [ Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

You stated you "never use the both setting" on the battery switch. I always have mine set on both. This doesn't pertain to your problem; I'm just curious.

Author:  Paul I. [ Fri Jul 29, 2011 2:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

rjrose wrote:
You stated you "never use the both setting" on the battery switch. I always have mine set on both. This doesn't pertain to your problem; I'm just curious.


Good question!! But there is a good reason why you should not. If one battery is failing, it will bring the other one down with it. Thats why a combiner or a isolator should be added. It will keep the other battery charged up.

Author:  Graham R [ Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

I always use battery #1 or #2, never "both". Usually #1 on the way out, #2 on the way in to keep both charged up. To make life interesting, sometimes the other way around. If both bateries were almost discharged I'd have no issue with using" both" to try to start the engine.

Graham

Author:  230 Mike [ Fri Aug 05, 2011 8:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

Graham R wrote:
I always use battery #1 or #2, never "both". Usually #1 on the way out, #2 on the way in to keep both charged up.


+1

Author:  Technologic80 [ Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

I havent gotten around to dealing with this issue - my Convertible top ripped so now Im looking at $2400 to replace that, my depthsounder stopped working, so thats going to be $200... :evil: :roll:

Ive been keeping the battery switch on battery 1, a brand new group size 27.. and have had no issues whatsoever. Cranks fast, charges at 14.7v or so... havent even used battery #2 because I know its going to stress me out knowing its got issues.

Whose idea was this boating thing anyways?! lol....

Author:  gregs [ Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Battery #2 issues

I have a comment regarding the tape on the cables. It may have something to do with ABYC standards.

My H210 has red tape wrapped around the pos cable going from the stern helm breaker to the helm. I wondered about it until I read an article by Steve D'Antonio in Passage Maker magazine. The tape is referred to as supplemental sheathing and has to do with the distance cable has to run. I cannot find the article to refer to. The ABYC standards document is something you have to pay for and is not available on line for free.

Anyhow, that may be the reason for the tape.

Greg

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