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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 11:01 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 1:46 am
Posts: 58
Hi,

I bought a new 12v accurator and am having trouble powering it up. When connected directly to the battery the hatch open and closes are required. Unfortunately when I connect to the original cable coming from the switch nothing happens. A multimeter is reading 12V+ when connected to the old cable but the accurator is not budging. Any idea's? I need to check the amp's which I suspect are being 'lost' somewhere. Anyone know how to replace the cable running from the switch at the dash?
If thats not possible Im thinking of installing a 2 channel remote that I would connect directly to the battery. The keyring remote would then be used much like a garage door opener to lift and lower the hatch. Any views? There must be a better place to connect than directly to the batteries...Help! :oops:

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Oliver
'06 V278
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:32 am 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
If it's the same wiring as on my 2004 Sundowner, the 2 connectors in the "old" cable change polarity, depending on whether the switch on the dash is depressed for "up" or "down". One +ve, the other -ve.

Wired direct to the battery it'll be something like 12.8V. Is it actually 12V you are getting between thos 2 terminals ? If so, that may welll drop further when the motor tries to turn. I'd look for bad connections/ high resistance at the dash/ switch end to begin with ( including the dash multipin connectors etc).

If it's an inherent voltage drop within the cable run, you could consider using 2 relays at the actuator end. The 12V would be sufficient to energise the low amp coils, the contacts could be connected to the battery +ve/ ground (with appropriate fuses, of course). i.e. Wired like the trim pump.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 6:38 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:22 am
Posts: 41
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Just had exact same issue on my Sundowner '06 255 - did you find what the problem was using the existing wiring? I've only done basic checks like fuse and switch operation as yet, about to pull the actuator motor out to check that. BTW, where did you buy the new one? :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 7:06 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 1:46 am
Posts: 58
I bought one through FIRGELLI in the US and ended up having to have it wired by a pro.

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'06 V278
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:46 am 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:22 am
Posts: 41
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Thanks for the tip on Firgelli - they have an aussie warehouse out of Melbourne! Cheers :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:03 am 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:22 am
Posts: 41
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
I removed the actuator and bench tested that on a 12v supply, and it was working fine. Issue turned out to be corrosion on the earth terminals on the switch itself (although somewhat 'mild' causing intermittent 12v to the actuator connectors under the 'hood') . Removed all the terminals and cleaned them up - problem solved! :D

thanks for your tips on this,

cheers!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:53 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:03 am
Posts: 2238
Location: Winthrop, Ma.
Please remember that FW likes to undersize there wires. Connect you meter at the actuator and than turn it on and note the voltage drop. if its more than 1.5V. Than I would clean any & all connection that deal with that. I would not spend a great deal of time on it. It may be easier and faster to run new & bigger wires to it. Tracing down bad wires is not that easy. Almost forgot, FW like to use non-marine wire, so go with tinned wire of you replace them. It will last a lot longer!!


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