www.iFourWinns.com

I'm pretty sure that if the electrical device is inherently incapable of creating a spark, it doesn't have to carry any kind of ignition rating. For example, I doubt that the light fixtures boat builders use in the engine compartment are ignition rated. Same goes for the pressure switch on the halon extinguisher, the various sensors used on the fuel injected engines, the standard off-the-shelf electric heating elements used in marine water heaters, the sonar modules that some of the depth finder / chartplotter systems use, and any of the myriad of types of multi-position wiring connectors. If all you have is a box full of solid state electronics, some wires, transformers, and no relays or switches, I'm pretty sure it would be exempt. Food for thought...

For a few $$ less, is it worth it to be safe??

I'm not sure what you're asking; I can't figure out the logic in your question when pertaining to the above post, but I think you're asking "Isn't it worth it to spend a few more $$ to be 'safe'". If there's no inherent chance of a spark to begin with on a non "marine" charger, then no. My question would be, does the marine charger even have a SAE J1171 (or whatever the UL equivalent is) sticker on it, or is it just "marine rated"?
Again, does your chartplotter's sonar interface that's mounted in your engine compartment have an ignition rated seal of approval on it? How about your NMEA 2000 fuel flow sensor? What about that marine grade stereo amplifier mounted in your enclosed front compartment?
This "ignition rating" is for devices that create sparks by their very nature; a distributor, a starter, an alternator, a bilge pump, a blower, etc... do you think that manufacturers rate their battery cables and batteries to be "ignition proof"? No, but for sure these devices are *capable* of creating a spark. Heck, if your non-ignition rated power connector that's connected to your ignition rated distributor ever gets loose, it will be creating gobs of sparks right there in the plain atmosphere of the engine compartment. It's these reasons why we have a blower fan, explosive gas sensors, and a word of caution to use our noses before starting the engine.
There's no mandate that a charger must be "ignition rated".

Edit:
Something I would buy a marine charger for above a normal charger would be if the marine charger is sealed against moisture. THAT would be the pertinent thing here I think.

Edit again:
Obviously it would be foolish to use a "cheap" automotive charger that doesn't even charge a battery properly. I'm talking more like the typical 2-output smart charger one can find in marine and non-marine applications.

Well, if a charger makes sparks internally it's probably going to create it's own fire without the need for gas fumes lol

Now, the need for something that is water resistant, that's good.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Anything that goes into a engine compartment must/should be ignition proof. Even the NMEA2k network. The older the boat the more this should be adheard too.

As too "There's no mandate that a charger must be "ignition rated" Read this and this is not complete as to what the U.S.C.G. and NMEA would want. http://www.bluesea.com/resources/120

Batterys and cables are not rated that way, I think its because of how we use them and connect them they do not generate a spark. Say as a fuse blowing, a breaker being tripped or reset, and a switch turning on of off. All of these devices should be sealed to make them ignition proof.

For me, nothing goes into the engine compartment unless it is "ignition proof". Your life as worth more but thats just me.

I yield! Common sense has been precluded by "the sticker says it's a marine device, so it must be okay".
I looked at my wiring in the engine compartment. None of the factory wiring has "marine rated" printed on it. I wonder if Four Winns knows they are in direct violation of what is written in your link?

You mean, at least I would think "the sticker says it's ignition proof"? Otherwise its too open ended for me.

Yes, that's what I mean.

I ran with scissors once. But they were marine rated, soooo.....

_________________

1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

Soooo how far did you get?

Well, here's the main thing to do...

Keep the fuel system maintained. You're only going to get fuel vapor if something breaks. Rubber fuel line only lasts a few years. Marine rated fuel line is thicker so at least it gives people a fighting chance when they never replace it like they should.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Since I discovered the charger on my Vista to be only half working, I think I found a good charger to replace it with in case I can't fix the original one...
http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/pro-nautic-1230p.html
Not a bad price, and most of all, it can have it's charge program changed for different battery chemistry. Since I upgraded to AGM batteries, I think it would be a more optimum match.