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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 12:53 pm 
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I need a new battery charger to replace my guest 20 amp 2 bank charger. I don't trust it any more since I found 2 cooked batteries this weekend and one actually exploded when I went to start the engine. Well I should say my wife doesn't trust it so I need a new charger no questions...
I don't mind replacing it with the same make model but should the wiring be the way the factory put it in. It seems like they wired it to the battery switch(haven't taken anything apart yet). Should I rewire directly to the batteries, plus fuses? I question that the long run from where the charger sits, right next to the batteries, to the switch and back to the batteries could have given the charger a false low voltage. Am I over thinking? Everything is factory as far as I can tell and the new batteries are optima's.
The guest chargers seem to have a pretty good rating but should I switch to something else or are they all pretty equal? I don't want to go crazy on this as I don't think I will trust leaving a charger on all the time anymore.

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--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 3:00 pm 
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Maybe it isn't the charger and you just had a bad battery. Were they the red tops?
As a battery ages, it loses water, leaving the top of the lead plates exposed to the air inside the battery case. Over time, this can lead to warpage of the plates.When you start the engine, the heavy demand for power can cause these already warped plates to flex, touch and thus spark.(short in the plates) Another cause is loose cables cause higher amp draws and sparks


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 3:43 pm 
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The batteries were 2 year old "regular" lead acid. It might not be the charger like you said but I "need" a new one to make the wife feel comfortable. I will use this charger for something else.
Learned my lesson to check the levels but now both batteries are optimas.
The surviving battery is low so I assume the other one was low as well. They worked fine about a month ago when I first put the boat in but haven't used it since and it has been charging the whole time. After the fact I noticed the surviving battery was very weak which it was not a month ago. So it is a toss up on the charger cooking the battery or the level was a little low and it just kept charging and made it worse. It's a piece of mind thing.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 5:09 pm 
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Location: Ontario
A new school digital battery charger is worth every penny in my opinion. They are even capable or repairing batteries that will not take a charge in some cases.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 5:25 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2013 4:37 pm
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Location: Sweden, Northern Europe, close to the arctic circle
For some strange reason, my charger had both "banks" connected at the switch to the house batteries, never charging the start. Not great...

I bought a CTEK M300 that charges both banks. Wired to the start battery on the poles. I have an automated relay that when over 13,2V (ie motor on or charger on) connects the banks, hence charging both.


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 7:33 am 
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Haddock_ wrote:
For some strange reason, my charger had both "banks" connected at the switch to the house batteries, never charging the start. Not great...

I bought a CTEK M300 that charges both banks. Wired to the start battery on the poles. I have an automated relay that when over 13,2V (ie motor on or charger on) connects the banks, hence charging both.


The CTEK chargers look impressive. The M300 doesn't seem to be a US model and the other models are not for dual batteries so I would need 2 which gets $$.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 7:40 am 
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Location: Bush River, Maryland
As a rule of thumb, I don't trust any of the wiring on my boat. If you think that the wiring is incorrect, you should investigate yourself to see if it is done correctly.

As for circuit protection my Promariner requires circuit protection within seven inches of the battery connection. I've rewired and used Blue Sea Systems terminal fuse blocks, they are expesive for both the fuse and the blocks but I like the connection.

Promariner charger manual excerpt:

Battery cables, connections and installation must comply with ABYC E-11 and A-31 standards. To avoid risk of injury, fire or an explosion, ProMariner requires that when making a wire connection to EACH BATTERY(s) Positive (+) Post, install the positive cable with an over current protection fuse within 7 inches of connection to the battery or battery connection point. The fuse rating should be at least 10 amps higher than the rated full output of the charger. See ABYC E-11 for specific requirements. Over current protection within 7 inches of the charger’s negative (-) DC output post is not required as the ProTech-i is self limiting and can not exceed its rated current output. The internal fuses protect the unit against reverse polarity.

Blue Sea Terminal Fuse Blocks: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... &id=983740

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 8:03 am 
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I am leaning toward the ProMariner ProSport 20 Generation 3 20 Amp. It seems to be a good deal right now on Amazon and has a slight advantage over the Guest 20 amp besides a better price. It can charge all 20 amps on one battery if needed.
I believe wiring it like you(noexcuses) stated is the way to go. It is actually an easy installation other than having to remove the old wires so they don't cause issues. That charger comes with the fused wiring with eyelets also.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 8:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Hubbard Lake Michigan
I have the Pro Mariner. Very happy with it.

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 10:09 am 
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Very hard to decide. I am down to NOCO Genius GEN2 20 Amp 2-Bank or ProMariner ProSport 20 Generation 3 20 Amp which both seem to be top notch.
One question on the 110 volt wiring. The current charger is hard wired internally. These seem to have plugs. Whats the recommended installation in the engine compartment. A generic waterproof 110 box mounted on the bulkhead with connections inside? Or do I need a special box.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:03 am
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1512412

I would go with this line of ProMariner. It displays both Volts and Amps, so you know wants going on. Not just a green LED that says charging.

I would call them!!


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 12:58 pm 
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Paul I. wrote:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289966&id=1512412

I would go with this line of ProMariner. It displays both Volts and Amps, so you know wants going on. Not just a green LED that says charging.

I would call them!!


Thank you, I was looking at the wrong style with the plug. This style is for hard wiring. I am looking at the 1220P for 2 banks I don't need 3 banks and it seems just right. This model has the automatic dockside power mode so it doesn't get false readings from using the lights or whatever. I am also looking at C-Charger 2000 SP which is very similar without the readouts. I decided not to rush into this purchase, an extra week won't matter. I will check the wiring currently on the boat and if it has fuses inline. Then buy whatever I need at once.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 2:32 pm 
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babbot1 wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289966&id=1512412

I would go with this line of ProMariner. It displays both Volts and Amps, so you know wants going on. Not just a green LED that says charging.

I would call them!!


Thank you, I was looking at the wrong style with the plug. This style is for hard wiring. I am looking at the 1220P for 2 banks I don't need 3 banks and it seems just right. This model has the automatic dockside power mode so it doesn't get false readings from using the lights or whatever. I am also looking at C-Charger 2000 SP which is very similar without the readouts. I decided not to rush into this purchase, an extra week won't matter. I will check the wiring currently on the boat and if it has fuses inline. Then buy whatever I need at once.


I was not saying to buy that one, but that line/model of charger. If it was me, I needed a 2 bank charger, I would by the 3 bank one. First off, in all the Promariners the bank will load share. Meaning that if you were to use a 3 bank charger rated 30amps and only used 2 of the banks. All 30amps could be split between the 2 batteries. Not 10/10/& 10. AND, the price differnce is so small there would be no problem in adding a 3rd battery!!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 1:30 pm 
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I made a mistake the 1220P is a 3 bank not 2 bank charger. The 1230P is quite a bit more $$. So I ordered the 1220P through defender.com which is local for me. They came pretty close to price matching Amazon so I got a great deal and they are a great company to deal with as usual. Only problem is it wasn't in stock so I have to wait a little.
The manual also notes to connect the negative and charger case ground to the negative bus so I do have to go to the battery switch (where I assume the bus is located) and not directly to the batteries, at least for the negative wire.

Paul, thanks for the recommendation it looks like a great charger when comparing to other brands.

_________________
--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 9:23 am 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
babbot1 wrote:
I made a mistake the 1220P is a 3 bank not 2 bank charger. The 1230P is quite a bit more $$. So I ordered the 1220P through defender.com which is local for me. They came pretty close to price matching Amazon so I got a great deal and they are a great company to deal with as usual. Only problem is it wasn't in stock so I have to wait a little.
The manual also notes to connect the negative and charger case ground to the negative bus so I do have to go to the battery switch (where I assume the bus is located) and not directly to the batteries, at least for the negative wire.

Paul, thanks for the recommendation it looks like a great charger when comparing to other brands.


Your welcome!


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