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 Post subject: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2016 7:03 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:43 pm
Posts: 19
Is there a way to bench check an alternator for bearing noise? l have a 2000 H230 with 5.7 l V8 350
GSI engine.
Fixer.5


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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2016 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5662
Location: Long Island NY
You can use a mechanics stethoscope or just remove the belt and spin the pulley to feel for roughness in the bearing. It should be perfectly smooth.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 6:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
If you decide to replace it, you must use a Marine Alternator, not an Automotive Alternator.

For my 2000 Horizon 240 (1996-1999 type model) with VP 5.7GS:
I ordered a new alternator from http://www.rareelectrical.com
AC165618 M59819
Back in Aug 2013 it was $77.48 Great price.

I don't know if your model is the same, but they were able to cross reference numbers from my old alternator (sorry, I don't have those numbers anymore).

Ray

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
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'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 11:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5662
Location: Long Island NY
Another good source is Arco Marine

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 4:23 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:43 pm
Posts: 19
Thanks to all for your replies. I'll check for the play in the pulley. If necessary I'll look at the web sites
You mentioned.
Fixer.5


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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 4:31 pm
Posts: 873
Location: Minneapolis, MN
You might check with your local auto parts store on whether they can test the alternator. If you need to change the alternator, absolutely use a marine alternator.

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Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon


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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 8:07 am 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 8:22 pm
Posts: 274
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio
I had mine rebuilt due to the expense of replacing it. That only cost about $65 3 years ago, so that may be an option for you as well.

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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2016 8:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:24 pm
Posts: 618
Location: Lake St. Clair USA
Capt. Hoss wrote:
I had mine rebuilt due to the expense of replacing it. That only cost about $65 3 years ago, so that may be an option for you as well.

If you have a local alternator/starter repair guy, they can be very worthwhile. About 5 years ago, I had a starter rebuilt for an Aprilia Motorcycle. The new OEM replacement would have been north of $600 but was only $40 to rebuild.

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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 6:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
After you install a new or rebuilt alt, always check the charging voltage at the battery with a digital voltmeter. The reason why I say this is because your dash gauge may read lower than the actual charging rate. On our boat my dash gauge would read 13V or a little higher but at the battery I was getting 15.5V! This was probably due to 2 different problems, that had the same cause, resistance in old wiring. On the OMC wiring harness, the alternator S wire (voltage sensing) comes from the ignition wiring circuit and over time, resistance can build up in some of the connections. So what happens is that this wire brings a lower than true reading on the actual charging rate of the batteries to the alt, which results in the alt raising its charging rate but that can over charge the battery. The dash gauge may read low for the same reason, resistance in old wiring. When I checked the voltage at the sense wire it was 9-10V whereas the batts were at 12.5. I got this information from Arco Electric. They advised not using the sense wire and instead installing a jumper wire from the large B+ terminal on the alt, to the S terminal on the alt. This will basically read batt voltage because the large B+ if you follow it back it terminates on the B+ (large terminal) on the starter solenoid which of course is connected to the battery or battery switch. After doing this, I got 14.2V at idle. So don't rely only on that dash gauge!

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 6:48 am 
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Shark

Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:52 am
Posts: 139
Location: Huntsville, AL
Another good source that I have purchased several alternators and starters from thru the years is http://www.dbelectrical.com/
Just another option to check for pricing.

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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 9:49 am 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 5141
Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
GottWhat wrote:
...The new OEM replacement would have been north of $600 but was only $40 to rebuild.


Now that sounds like an honest shop.

We used to rebuild them ourselves all the time. Getting the pulley off is the hardest part of the whole job (and with the tools many people have on hand these days, that isn't hard either). New bearings, regulator, diode pack, brushes, and recondition the commutator - 2-hour job. It's criminal what they charge for a rebuilt alternator, marinized or not.

Glory days...

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
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 Post subject: Re: Noisy alternator
PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 2:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:24 pm
Posts: 618
Location: Lake St. Clair USA
230 Mike wrote:
GottWhat wrote:
...The new OEM replacement would have been north of $600 but was only $40 to rebuild.


Now that sounds like an honest shop.

We used to rebuild them ourselves all the time. Getting the pulley off is the hardest part of the whole job (and with the tools many people have on hand these days, that isn't hard either). New bearings, regulator, diode pack, brushes, and recondition the commutator - 2-hour job. It's criminal what they charge for a rebuilt alternator, marinized or not.

Glory days...

They have been in business for a long time and recently moved to a larger building. With that said, the starter didn't need a complete rebuild. The positive power post spun causing an internal wire to detach. He was able to take make that repair with a stern warning not to over-tighten. I'm just glad I didn't have to buy a new one.

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