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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 1:27 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:57 am
Posts: 23
Had this boat two years and no wiring problems in the past, though I did forget the plug last summer and got some water into the bilge (maybe some wires got wet??). This season my volt gauge has been flaky but all the other gauges seem to work ok. First trip out the volt gauge was dead when we launched the boat but after driving around a bit it revived and started working normal. Second trip out the volt gauge was dead the entire trip but all other gauges appeared to work fine. I have done the following so far in my garage:

1) I tested the volts at the gauge and they were around 11.5 but I am getting 12.75 at the battery. Obvious some wiring issues but I am getting enough that it seems I should have a reading on the volt gauge (gauge reads from 10+)
2) I took the wires off the gauge and the ring terminals looked perfect so I put them back on and tightened the terminal nut: gauge still dead.
3) Pulled the purple power wire off the ignition switch and put it back on, the volt gauge moved a little. Pulled the purple wire a few more times, the volt gauge came up to just under 12 volts so probably reading about right for the power coming through the wires. I figured I had some build-up on the ignition switch terminal and removing the wire a few times restored the connection surface so I figure at least the gauge issue is resolved.
4) A week later I start the boat on the hose in the yard and volt gauge is once again completely dead. Tried wiggling wires on the back of the gauge and tried the pulling the ignition wire off the ignition switch (and putting it back on, of course) to no effect: volt gauge is dead.
5) When I started the boat in step 4 I noticed the tachometer was reading 1500 RPM which I knew was wrong because the engine was at cold idle speed around 800 RPM. After a while, the tachometer settled down to what appeared to be a normal RPM indication but would randomly climb up to 1,000-2,000 RPM and bounce around a bit before slowly settling back at the appropriate reading. The engine was idling the entire time the tachometer was flailing around so the readings were obviously false.

This boat is an '03 170 Freedom (more or less a '97-'02 170 Horizon) with Faria gauges. The volt gauge is on a four-way gauge and all the other gauges on the four-way are working ok.

Only thing I can think might be an issue is I took the starter off last Fall to recondition one of the commutator bars in the starter and perhaps I didn't hook something up right?

Any ideas where to start?

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2003 FW 170 Freedom 4.3 GL/SX


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 2:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: South Jersey
It's quite possible the gauge is bad! I had the volt gauge on my 248 go, same symptoms you're describing. Ended up putting a new gauges is (because Four Winns has their logo on the gauges and doesn't sell individual gauges, at least for my boat). New gauge installed, no issues.

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-Tony
2016 Robalo R200 w/Yahama 200!

Previous boats:
2003 Four Winns 248 Vista - sold
1994 Sunbird Corsair 200 - sold
1980 Checkmate Predictor - sold


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:36 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:57 am
Posts: 23
I think you're right, taz.

I cleaned the cables and terminals at the battery and I am now getting 12.64 volts on the gauge posts but the needle is still lying on the peg so I am taking that as the gauge is toast. If there is anything that can be done to revive the gauge I am open to hearing it.

This is a 4-in-1 gauge so unless there is a trick to revive it I guess I will keep it with the dead volt needle for now. Of the four needles in this gauge cluster, the volt gauge is probably the one I use the least so that is good.

The tachometer going haywire is a new issue today. After cleaning the cables and battery terminals I started up the engine for a minute or so and the tach behaved normally while I was watching it. I am going to keep my eye on it with my fingers crossed.

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2003 FW 170 Freedom 4.3 GL/SX


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 4:31 pm
Posts: 873
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Others on this site (including me) have reported issues with Faria tachometers from the early 2000s. Try lightly tapping the face of the gauge when it acts up, or a little more firm tap of the top of the instrument panel above the gauge. I believe it is bad connection inside the gauge. These tachometers measure the firing impulses in the ignition system. On the back of the gauge there is often a selector to set how many cylinders your engine has. I think I recall someone mentioning somewhere that they noted what their tach was set at, then turned the screw to each setting a few times and returned it to its original setting. In his case it made the tach work normal again. You might try it.....

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Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon


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