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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 6:32 am 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
formulax wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
Would not use it. First off, you can not start your engine on ether battery alone. If the 1st battery is almost dead, the 2nd battery can discharge into the first one. By starting the engine on ether battery, this will tell you that the battery is in good shape. With this system, you will never know until its to late.

A dual battery set-up is cheaper and better. It gives you full control. Later you can add a battery combiner to charge both no matter how the switch is set.


Not sure I follow all of what you are saying. I currently am going from a single battery to a dual battery setup. The switch I purchased has 3 settings, ON, OFF & COMBINE (for emergency starting). When set to ON the ACR that came with the kit controls charging of both batteries as well as keeping starting and house loads separate. As I understand it the starting battery will only be used for starting the boat and will not be depleted if I run down my house battery.


Lets say your starting battery goes dead. You can not start your engine on the 2nd battery with out combining with the starting battery. The basic dual battery switch is "1" "2" "Both" and "Off". Not the Arc as you mentioned....

A battery combiner or arc can be added later to keep both batteries charged up no matter how your switch is set. This will give you full control over them. Some combiners and arc have a control wire and you can control it too.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:04 am 
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formulax wrote:
Ok, I think I may have found it.

Image

Those two black wrapped sets of wires head back to this plate on the back of the motor. There is the 50amp fuse and a red/purple wire, I am hoping that is what I am looking for. If that is the case... I would just disconnect it from this plate and connect it to the house side of my switch correct?



Can anyone confirm that this is my fuse block wire?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 1:55 pm 
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To each there own.......

But if you do install the "add a battery" kit. Why are you touching your boats wiring??

On a boat that small, I don't think the house and starting loads can be separated. Even if you could, why?

On you first post, your adding an amp and may want to run your head unit too off the 2nd battery. Otherwise called, the house load side of the arc system.

Myself, thats too complicated as I have mentioned. One dual battery switch, one combiner/arc https://www.bluesea.com/products/7601/m ... 24V_DC_65A and a few cables.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 2:13 pm 
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Paul I. wrote:
To each there own.......

But if you do install the "add a battery" kit. Why are you touching your boats wiring??

On a boat that small, I don't think you house and starting load can be separated. Even if you could, why?


I will have two batteries. To me, the starting battery should only handle starting the boat and everything else should be ran off the house battery. That way if someone leaves my fresh water pump on (has already happened) or something else on the boat on, it is not draining the starting battery, just the house battery. A few weekends ago a friends kid had got on there and was messing around with all the switches. I came back on the boat and the blower, docking lights, and courtesy lights were all on.

Paul I. wrote:
One dual battery switch, one combiner/arc https://www.bluesea.com/products/7601/m ... 24V_DC_65A

And a few cables.


That is exactly what the add a battery kit is, a switch and an ARC.

I keep seeing the Blue Sea Systems Add a Battery kit being recommended system as the preferred system to do what I want as you just have to keep the switch set to on and the systems is smart enough to isolate the batteries when not charging. When the motor is running it properly charges both batteries. Maybe I have that all wrong and I'm just not understanding what you are trying to tell me...

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 6:18 pm 
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formulax wrote:
formulax wrote:
Ok, I think I may have found it.

Image

Those two black wrapped sets of wires head back to this plate on the back of the motor. There is the 50amp fuse and a red/purple wire, I am hoping that is what I am looking for. If that is the case... I would just disconnect it from this plate and connect it to the house side of my switch correct?



Can anyone confirm that this is my fuse block wire?

Disconnect it from the starter posts and check for battery voltage at the fuse block


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:03 am
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
formulax wrote:
Paul I. wrote:
To each there own.......

But if you do install the "add a battery" kit. Why are you touching your boats wiring??

On a boat that small, I don't think you house and starting load can be separated. Even if you could, why?


I will have two batteries. To me, the starting battery should only handle starting the boat and everything else should be ran off the house battery. That way if someone leaves my fresh water pump on (has already happened) or something else on the boat on, it is not draining the starting battery, just the house battery. A few weekends ago a friends kid had got on there and was messing around with all the switches. I came back on the boat and the blower, docking lights, and courtesy lights were all on.

Paul I. wrote:
One dual battery switch, one combiner/arc https://www.bluesea.com/products/7601/m ... 24V_DC_65A

And a few cables.




That is exactly what the add a battery kit is, a switch and an ARC.

I keep seeing the Blue Sea Systems Add a Battery kit being recommended system as the preferred system to do what I want as you just have to keep the switch set to on and the systems is smart enough to isolate the batteries when not charging. When the motor is running it properly charges both batteries. Maybe I have that all wrong and I'm just not understanding what you are trying to tell me...


On understanding, forgive me but I have mentioned this twice.

On "That is exactly what the add a battery kit is, a switch and an ARC." No it is not as I have mentioned. You can not start your engine on ether battery alone. You must combine the two just to use the 2nd battery in stating. Which can discharge into the #1 battery and more...

And on "To me, the starting battery should only handle starting the boat and everything else should be ran off the house battery." So true. But hard to do on smaller boats since there not wired that way. But it can be done.

Also with the Arc I mentioned. By using the ground wire as a control you can turn it off and on. This is very useful with a on board charger.

Enough said as far as I am concerned, unless you have a direct question. Good luck..


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:58 pm 
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I researched this back when I installed my dual battery system back in 07 or so and I felt with the fact that engine & house loads are not wired separately on the smaller boats it was simpler to just use the manually operated switch. It has worked fine in this boat all that time. I suggest that you periodically put a digital voltmeter on whichever battery is being charged since the dash gauges are not all that accurate. I had a dead battery once and was able to start on the other one and then switch to both to bring the other back up to charge.
I use a pair of group 27 dual purpose batteries which are more than adequate for my boat's needs.

The reason why I say to periodically check the rate of charge is that you can have under or over charging that may not show up on the dash gauge. This will for sure shorten battery life.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:04 pm 
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Why not address the voltage drop between the batteries and gauge and then B, swap the analog needle gauge for a digital that reads two decimal places.


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