Thinking about a 2nd battery? Take this into consideration

ric · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 10:38 am

After some maths and spending a few bucks on Amazon and Wal-mart, with the help of technology I was able to save myself the hassle of installing a 2nd battery!

Here's how:

I ordered a bunch of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/150699060842?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3344wt_1396

Each SMD is 1 watt, so if you don't want it too bright make sure you get the single SMD bulb for nighttime stuff.

My VDO gauges came with 168 bulbs, they are 5 watts each with 9 bulbs = 45 watts of juice just for stupid gauge lights! No wonder the volt needle would drop a tad when I turned the nav lights on.

Not all gauges are getting bulbs (who cares about trim or mph at night) so I reduced my total light power draw also.

Standard Incandescent bulbs:
Gauges = 45w
All Round = 25w
Front Nav = 10w
Total = 80w or 6.5amp

My switch to LED
Gauges = 5w total.
All Around = 1.8w new Attwood LED
Nav = 2.4w new Attwood LED
Total = 9.2w or .72 amp

Battery runtime with standard bulbs (standard marine 75amp hour battery to 50%) = 4 hours
LED setup = 35 hours!

Gotta love technology.

Another example: Anchored out at night with the radio on...

Radio (external amp off) turned not loud = 20w
Standard all around light = 25w
Total power is 45w or roughly 4 amps. That gives me around 6 hours of chillin with friends listening to music or fishing before I gotta start er up and recharge.

LED all around? It just jumped up my night time chillin to 14 hours with the radio on. 14 HOURS!

Spending $100 in a new LED setup for my boat just saved me installing a 2nd battery and a ton of money in labor, cables, switches, etc.

When upgrading to LED/SMD technology pay attention to the wattage factor of them. Each SMD is 1 watt, so if you get the standard ebay wedge style with 5 SMD's, they are 5 watt bulbs AND REALLLLLLYLYYYYYYYYYYYY BRIGHTTTTT. Also, aftermarket bulbs to fit the old style navigation lights are less watts, but not as low as re-designed dedicated LED fixtures. A replacement LED light for the all-around is around 15 watts. Attwood's USCG rated all around is 1.8 watts. Also check for deals. I got my front led nav in white to match from walmart site to store for $25, west marine wants $60 for the same 3500 series attwood LED and only carries black.

I also got a new attwood 2 pin base for the rear just because they are $14 shipped from Amazon for no other reason but just replace the old one so everything matches nice and new.

Walt · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:30 am

Did you shop at SuperbrightLED.com? I see them pimped on this sight frequently. I have never bought, but have a few friends that have and really happy with them.

I agree with reducing overall demand... very worthwhile and LEDs will last soo much longer than regular bulbs.

IMO, everyone should have dual batteries. Afterall, I've been to the ramp many times with #1 dead. Just a flip of the switch, and am good to go! It is a hassle to jump-start the boat from the car. I've done it, and prefer not too.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:05 pm

Walt wrote:

It is a hassle to jump-start the boat from the car. I've done it, and prefer not too.

From the car ???????? :roll:

ric · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 4:38 pm

I've never had a dead battery, but again I use my boat 2-4 days out of the week. As the winter finally hits next month I might invest in a solar charger since I might go weeks without use and it has the automatic bilge. http://batterytender.com/solar/5-watt-solar-panel.html

I got my LED wedge bulbs off ebay, much cheaper. 10 "168/194" one 5050 SMD style bulbs were $10 shipped. Those LED guys wanted $50 for 10 plus shipping!!! My buddy does LED strip lighting on motorcycles and gets all his stuff off ebay and china. No quality issues.

Other then that, I purchased new LED navigation lights instead of converting the old stuff. Looks better then converted 12 year old junk.

There's no reason to not use LED lighting on a boat. Saves money, power, create no heat or spark issues, and they take abuse much better from the waves. There shouldn't be a single incandescent bulb on the whole boat.

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 5:04 pm

I think finding ways to make your electrical system more efficient is great, after all its a finite resource on a boat. But, the main purpose of a 2nd battery is to have one in reserve to start the boat in case the first one fails, which happens. I added the dual batt system to my old Horizon about 7 years ago and it's one of the best mods I did. It was not all that expensive either and it's an easy do it yourself project. A batt jump pack is not a good substitute. Most have cheap batteries, that do not have near the cranking amps of a good marine battery, and after they are re-charged several times, they are often too weak to start an engine. Do the math, the parts cost of a 2nd batt is maybe 200- 250 bucks. The cheapest insurance you will ever buy. Getting stuck somewhere because of a dead single battery and the weather turns bad is just plain foolish. Get a 2nd battery, you're not in a car and can't walk home.

ric · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 5:15 pm

Batteries just don't go magically bad, they last their specified lifespan and usually a few years longer. If you keep your boat on a trailer I'll show you the best investment you'll ever make for under $10 that will never leave you stranded at the dock again with a dead battery (and the secret to why your 2nd battery works when the 1st doesn't)

Battery cut off switch.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 5:53 pm

LouC wrote:

A batt jump pack is not a good substitute. Most have cheap batteries, that do not have near the cranking amps of a good marine battery, and after they are re-charged several times, they are often too weak to start an engine.

Total BS. Sorry Lou. I have had a jump pack for 5 years, have started over a dozen boats and cars, and it holds a charge just fine right now. For $59 it will outlast any marine battery that costs the same. It's not a substitute for a second battery, it's help if and when you need it. And you don't have the hassle of jumping your boat with the truck/car battery.

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 7:52 pm

Cap'n Morgan wrote:

LouC wrote:

A batt jump pack is not a good substitute. Most have cheap batteries, that do not have near the cranking amps of a good marine battery, and after they are re-charged several times, they are often too weak to start an engine.

Total BS. Sorry Lou. I have had a jump pack for 5 years, have started over a dozen boats and cars, and it holds a charge just fine right now. For $59 it will outlast any marine battery that costs the same. It's not a substitute for a second battery, it's help if and when you need it. And you don't have the hassle of jumping your boat with the truck/car battery.

Well Captn I've had a couple different ones of those and they have never lived up to the promise, they barely were able to start a car with a dead batt and eventually (I mean in only a few years) never really took a full charge. Maybe I got two bad ones, but I can buy a gp 27 marine dual purpose battery for less than 100 bucks every day here. So if I have 2 of those, and keep em charged, to me thats the best plan. Replace em every 5 years and you should never get stuck.

ric · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:13 pm

If your purpose is "safety" in a bowrider then that's just poor maintenance. If you own a 5 year battery there is no reason in 5 years it should fail or be dead when needed. If it is, then you have other problems. The #1 problem being the boat sits a lot with the battery connected.

Rule of thumb: Anything longer then 2 weeks, disconnect the battery. Longer then a month? Set it on a smart charger. Just buy a $10 disconnect and turn it off when you put the boat on the trailer. Solved. Turn the knob when putting boat in water. It will start. Everytime.

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:48 pm

I've had batteries last longer than 5 years but they can and will fail suddenly, the battery in your boat gets bounced around much worse than in your car, think about it the boat has no suspension, slams down from waves and wakes etc. I've owned this boat about 10 years. When I bought it I put in a Sears Marine Diehard that lasted about 3 seasons. Then put in the dual batt system with a pair of West Marine gp 27s. They lasted about 4 seasons before they would not hold a charge. Replaced them with a pair of Deka gp 27s. The boat has never refused to start, never broke down anywhere, I have Boat Tow US but never used it in 10 years. Why, well I do not wait till they fail to replace. When they do not come up to full charge on the charger they are getting sulfated and its time. You can push it but they have a finite lifespan.

This boat is moored with an auto bilge switch. Even though the covers keep out most of the water after a big storm, you will get water in the bilge. So the pump comes on and there is some drain.

I think part of good maintenance, is checking charging system voltage, and also noticing how long they take to come back up to charge on the charger. When they start taking a really long time, it's time to replace them.

www.iFourWinns.com

Thinking about a 2nd battery? Take this into consideration

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