www.iFourWinns.com

I've been meaning to get one of these for a long time and would love a recommendation from those who have them. The guy at my auto parts store told me the ones they carry are junk, reaffirming my belief in a little research since there are a lot to choose from out there. I've read some favorable reviews of the Black & Decker units. I'm looking for the most compact unit that will give me the best bang for my buck. I don't care if it has lights or an air compressor as some of them have. I would actually prefer one that was straight forward, well-made and easy to store.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards

We have a Black & Decker like this one.
It works fine for us.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

Costco around you should have them. I picked one up a hear ago or so and find myself using it for the most random things...

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

You kind of have to decide what you want in one. I started with one that had a tiny air compressor and hose, etc., and returned it because it had a bunch of stuff (and weight) that I didn't want to haul around or pay for. I bought a Husky HSK012HD which I'd recommend wholeheartedly except they're no longer made. They were made by a company that I believe has been bought out by Black & Decker. That thing has jumped several dead batteries in a matter of seconds and has only been recharged maybe 3 times in the several years I've owned it. I like the fact that it has a 3-LED work light (no spare bulbs to worry about) and a 12V outlet - and nothing else. I always take it on the boat in case someone else has a dead battery, it might keep me from having to tow.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Also note that most of them do not have a very smart charger built into them. They're typically powered from a cheap wall wart. Leave them plugged into it and eventually it'll cook the battery in them. Many are not supposed to stay plugged into the wall for more than 12 hours.

That said, I've had decent luck beating the crap out of a couple of harbor fright units. One has to be well over 12 years old and still seems to work. Even after patching the wall wart cord three times due to rodent suicides. That and leaving it plugged in for at least MONTHS straight. Perhaps it's quality construction is the rare exception to typical HF nonsense.

When it comes to carrying it around, I agree a simple one is better. I have both kinds, one with the air pump, jump start and inverter and then one that's just a jump box. The one with more features sees more use, but I wouldn't want to have to make room for it in the trunk of the car.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

My experience was like wKearney's. I thought it would be good to leave it on the charger until needed. Well, when that happened, it had no a** behind it. Couldn't start my car. Admittedly, it has a large motor (460 in a street rod) and requires a lot of torque, but I still thought it would at least turn the motor over. It didn't. Boats have big motors too. Anyway, the lesson is that you should make sure it's designed for how you'd use it, and Kearney is probably right about making sure you charge it properly.

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2008 Four Winns F224
5.0 Volvo Penta
Towing with Audi Q7 4.2 V8

Bill's point is a good one. I've got one of those Brother Ptouch label machines and used it to put labels on both the wall wart and the car charger as reminders of how long to limit charging. I'll give the Husky credit for at least making it clear in the owner's manual that charging needs to be watched carefully.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I have had a several jump starter but I ended up with a DieHard Portable Power 950 Jump-starter by and I am very happy with it. It has 950 peak Amp for starting and no other junks build-in other than DC and USB Power Source which are very useable. Since I keep the jumper in my trucks so the bottom line is you have to re-charge it sometimes since when you needed it you want to have all juice can get and avoid to get into a situation that "A Jumper" need a jump. The funny things is I never have to use the jumper for my own vihicle so far but be able to help my firends........

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08 H260 VP 8.1Gi DP.....Previous
2013 Crownline E6 Merc 8.2MAG BIIIX, DTS/SC

I keep a "Mastercraft" from Canadian Tire (Canada) unit on board at all times. I connect it to the starting battery so that it is always charged ( I connect after the boat is started for the first time of the day and disconnect at the end of the day)

I have used mine to power up my buddies windlass on his 32 ft Carver whenever the solenoid failed.

Coincidentally. my other buddy (1988 FW Vista 245) has three of these units one attaches to each of his batteries so he has extra house capacity and like me extra starting capacity. The one on the starting battery has an inverter built in and he uses it to power a dvd/tv combo and his laptop.
He bought most of them at yard sales real cheap because people had either lost the cords or were frustrated because they were never charged whenevr they needed them.

I would never rely on one of these to jump start a cold engine in the middle of the winter. They are more for warm weather starts IMO. I use mine alot for the lawn tractor (damn kids leave the lights on!)

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

I picked one up at Radio Shack about 5 years ago. Seems like it was in the $50 range. It is smaller and has the 12v outlet and that's it. Nice because it dosen't take a lot of space, so I can keep it on the boat.

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Norris Lake, Stardust Marina, Andersonville, TN
2005 Four Winns 230 Horizon 5.7L Volvo Gi/DP
2001 Maxum 1900SR 5.0L V8 (Sold)
2011 Nissan Armada Platnum