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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:11 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:22 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Denver, Colorado
was at lake Powell a few weeks ago and had the boat leave me stranded for the first time ever (knock on wood).

was cruzing down lake not more than 3300-3500 rpm at about 30ish mph when all of a sudden it died. thought vapor lock which can happen mid summer in Powell quite often. then usually 10 minutes or so and I'm up and running and off again. this time no luck. got towed back to camp then went to bullfrog to talk to a mechanic of possible over the counter parts i could throw at it with hopes of fixing it. after explaining to him the symptoms he said accelerator pump has a small tear in it. i was sceptically but when i got home i pulled it off the carb and low and behold this is what i found.

Image

after doing some reading i found that the green diaphragm verses black (auto) is used to prevent fire. so i called up the shop that does any major work for me on the boat to order the part. obviously i had to buy the entire carb rebuild kit and that sucker was 70 bucks!!!! couldn't believe it.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:42 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Any repair for under $100 seems like a score to me....

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 4:57 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:22 pm
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Location: Denver, Colorado
hahaa very true EvilZ!!! just this trip back from Powell I literally had a list going on the way home of things to fix and or do to the boat... like they say Break Out Another Thousand!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:37 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:34 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Alberta, CA
Make sure you have .010 clearance when you reinstall as not to rip the next one by bottoming the pump, always check it when changing pump cams, or removing the bowls.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:37 am 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
I recently rebuilt my Carburator (Holly 600 2bbl). My accelerator pump looked exactly like yours, except not torn. The new one in the kit was only about half as tall, so I put the old one back in.

Does anyone know why the one in the kit would look like it is not nearly deep enough? Can I get just the accelerator pump from Holley? I want to replace it before it fails.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:07 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
The rebuild kit from holley is like $35... from holley. Those "marine" guys like to up the profit margin a little....

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:23 am 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:22 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Denver, Colorado
yea i called my shop with my engine tag number so they could get a hold of Volvo and get me the EXACT kit that was needed.

unfortunately you have to get the entire kit to get the Accelerator pump.

Ric, how do i check the clearance? the mechanic that gave me the advice to look into this problem said sometimes the Ethanol in the fuel alone can make this happen. what you said about it bottoming out would make more sense to me of causing this.

i only found this due to it making the pump leak fuel and you could see it drip which is kind of sketchy having a fuel leak in the engine compartment and still having to drive the boat over an hour back to the truck. I ran with the blower on the whole time and fire extinguisher damn near in hand and a buddy lifting the hatch from time to time. i was a bit paranoid.

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2000 Four Winns 190 Horizon 5.0GL

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:24 am
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
It looks like you have the 50cc pump diaphragm instead of the 30cc that was furnished in your kit. To check the clearance on your pump open the throttle all the way with the engine OFF of course. If you removed and replaced the diaphragm then you should be aware of the bolt with the spring which pushes the pump lever that is where the adjustment is made. You should have if I remember 0.010 clearance of movement left between the bolt head and the pump lever when WOT. Check it with a feeler gauge and adjust accordingly if there is no play you can rip or bend the lever not enough you won't get the full fuel shot. I'll post pictures later.
Image
Image

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Last edited by fiznuka on Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:04 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:34 pm
Posts: 86
Location: Alberta, CA
Like fiznuka said; the lever off of the pump is pushed by the spring and bolt, you place a feeler gauge between the bolt/spring and the arm from the pump at wide opn throttle(WOT) throttle lever pulled all the way back. If the feeler gauge does not fit between them then there is not enough freeplay and the accelerator pump will bottom out, simply adjust the nut on the top of the spring until you have the desired freeplay .010-.015

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:35 am 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
[quote="fiznuka"]It looks like you have the 50cc pump diaphragm instead of the 30cc that was furnished in your kit.
Image

fiznuka: In my case your picture is exactly correct. I had the 50cc accelerator pump, and the kit came with a 30cc...so I put the 50cc back in. Should I have gone ahead and used the 30cc? If not, how do I get a 50cc to at least keep as a spare?
(sorry for hijacking hellasnow's original question)

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:21 am
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Location: Austin, TX
accel pumps...
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance- ... 2/10002/-1


and the rebuild kit for the 2bbl holley.. $16
http://www.race-mart.com/Holley_Perform ... 03-36.html

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:23 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
ric wrote:


Perfect. Thanks Rick
(and keep using that FW can cooler. lol)

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 3:28 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:22 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Denver, Colorado
dammit ric! i should have asked prior to spending 70 bucks on a full rebuild kit just for the Accelerator pump! oh well least i have an entire kit now in case i need to go through the carb in the future.

i actually just picked it up it came from Volvo with my engine number used for ordering but came with the black diaphragm not the original green one which makes me nervous cause i heard the green is to be used for fire hazard. i would think it's ok to use still since it came from Volvo as a marine kit. i go both the 50cc and 30cc but mine does take the 50cc.

hope to install tonight or the next couple days.

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2000 Four Winns 190 Horizon 5.0GL

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 3:34 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
Black is for 100% gasoline only, they're "NOS" (new old stock) since millions were made prior to E10 being standard. Green is for alcohol blend fuels (up to 100% alcohol!).

Do not use the black one if you use E10 pump gas. It will fail (rip) within a year or so leaving you stranded. Again.

Remember that Holley made the carb, not Volvo. If you have a 2 barrel it's the same carb used since the 90s (Holley 2300 series). Zero reason to visit Volvo for these parts.

E85 is getting quite popular around here in Orlando. I plan on converting my Stingray soon. It takes a few new parts for the carb (new metering block) for the higher fuel demand but the whole conversion cost is around $175.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 7:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Just coming back to report my research on Holley Accelerator Pump Diaphrams, and I see that ric beat me to it... :oops: ...but here it is anyway:

Yes, the green pumps are designed for Alcohol or Gas/Alcohol mix. The Black ones are for gas only. I would only suggest the green. All of them are available for under $15 at numerous performance outlets (or direct from Holley)

Here are the Holley part numbers:
Green 30cc 135-10
Green 50cc 135-9
Black 30cc 135-5
Black 50cc 135.7

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Holley-Accelerator-Pump-Diaphragms/
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Accelerator-Pump-Diaphragms/1391262/10002/-1

_________________
Image
"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


Top
 Profile  
 
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