'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2016 9:48 am

Jdpber wrote:

GottWhat wrote:

How long do you think it would take to install bearing buddys?

Good work on the wax/polish, nice and shiny!

Without rebuilding the hubs... About 10 minutes. You simply use the rubber hammer to knock the old caps off. Then you bang the new ones on.

Rebuilding the hubs..... Took me about 45 minutes start to finish, and that was pulling out the jack and tools, rebuild, cleanup. It is a very simple and straight forward task. ****NOTE that you may need to sand the rim of the earring buddy to get it to mate with the hub. One of mine was a thousandth too large so I hit it with 1,200 grit on the big belt sander to take a little f the machining off and she hammered into the hub nice and snug.

Good too hear, I have to do some trailer maintenance anyway and they sound like great things to have. Thanks for the info!

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2016 9:49 am

I learned how to do this job on drum brake equipped VW Beetles, circa 1972 or so, when we had that lousy yellow fibrous grease. The stuff we have today is so much better. If you need to change bearings and races, there are are few other tricks...
1) bolt the hub/drum or hub/disc rotor to the wheel, that makes it easier to knock out the old races and install the new ones, because its not moving around...
2) before installing new races leave them in the freezer for while, it makes it easier to tap them in, and using a bearing driver, makes it easier still and prevents any damage to the new races...
3) when adjusting the new bearings, I tighten the spindle nut to about 20 ft lbs while rotating the wheel, then take the big socket off the extension and use it to loosen the spindle nut a bit, then just tighten the nut by hand (snug) with the socket, and install the cotter pin or locking tab whichever one you have. There should be next to no play when rocking the wheel...

Its surprising that they put a 6,000 lb axle on that trailer with no brakes...were there any originally, or were they never installed? Here in NY that boat would be over the limit for needing brakes legally (3,000 lbs).
I had a new axle made years back with the Tie Down style Super Lube hubs and they are great. They are very easy to maintain and being able to flush out all the grease each season makes the bearings last a very long time. In fact I installed this in 2004 and have the same bearings in it since then. I changed the seals once (only because I had the drums off doing brake maintenance) and that's it.

As far as brakes I go against the grain sticking with drum brakes. With a few minor mods and using better quality parts (galvax coated drums, o-ring seal wheel cylinders, galvanized packing plates) and some regular maintenance (every other season remove drum, put a bit of grease on pivot points, adjust shoes) they work very well, do not drag like disc brakes do and do not need a troublesome back up solenoid like disc brakes. Drums can be designed to be free backing.

I took standard aluminum wheel cylinders and made them less prone to seizing by packing the piston with brake grease and sealing the dust boot to the cylinder with high temp RTV. This prevents the seizing of the piston due to corrosion which also happens with disc brakes, at least in salt water.

BTW, for those of you used to electric brakes, I found (on trailerpartsdepot.com) a company that makes galvanized electric trailer brakes. In freshwater I bet they would work great, with better control than surge brake and far cheaper than electric over hydraulic brakes. Here in the salt I prefer to sick with surge, but in fresh water I'd give them a try....

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/p-422- ... galvx.aspx

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/p-419- ... vx-7k.aspx

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2016 10:30 am

Our boat is rack stored with in/out service but if we towed it more often, I would look into converting my surge brakes into electric over hydraulic. The conversions look pretty straightforward but is $$$. Otherwise, the surge brakes with discs work pretty good.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2016 10:58 am

LouC wrote:

Its surprising that they put a 6,000 lb axle on that trailer with no brakes...were there any originally, or were they never installed?

This is how this Sun Sport was ordered from the factory. I am more shocked that it was not a tandem axel from the factory than the fact that it does not have brakes. If i hauled it long distances and frequently then i could justify the money for brakes. But I tow short distances around town so i dont have much issues stopping the boat with my big SUV. if i was towing with a small ligh truck or something like that then i could see the need for trailer brakes but my needs i dont see needing them at current.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2016 11:08 am

I agree, no brakes and a single axle trailer are really surprising. Like Lou said about NY, Michigan has a similar limit for a trailer with no brakes and going without would likely open an owner up to a lot of extra liability. Even if you are towing locally, adding brakes might be a worthy upgrade in the future.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2016 12:16 pm

GottWhat wrote:

I agree, no brakes and a single axle trailer are really surprising. Like Lou said about NY, Michigan has a similar limit for a trailer with no brakes and going without would likely open an owner up to a lot of extra liability. Even if you are towing locally, adding brakes might be a worthy upgrade in the future.

Yes i have thought about this a few times before nad simply not done it. would be nice to have.

Galv back plates, Galv drums, brakeaway, 7pin conectory 6', 10ga wiring, $377 on Etrailer. not terrible may happen over the winter.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Jul 20, 2016 7:50 am

been busy and was out of town last weekend. But last night i did get a couple little things done. THe only picture worthy item is the rear vents. They were a pain because i had to use a 90* phillips so it simply was slow as i am used to my impact driver.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Aug 02, 2016 1:07 pm

well back from a 15 day vacation it is time to wrap up a few little details on the boat. And as some of you have noticed i am always upgrading or improving and element on the boat.

Ok lets get started.. No radio has gotten to me and the fact that my little first mate has started to love music and to dance i have to get it jamming for this weekend. So the solid SS stud terminals went into the rear speaker housings, along with the internal wiring. I am going to have to pull a new starbord side speaker wire as before it was all ran on the port. SO TONIGHT the amp rack carpet, amps, wiring and rear sub will be installed.

> Last night i replaced the old brittle factory white plastic thru hull cooler drain with a solid SS thru hull.
> Made and installed the speaker terminals and wires.
> got the hoses and filler along with the vent plumbed for the shower. (caught hell with adapter fittings SOURCE OF MY MASSIVE DELAY)
> mounted the stern light inside the engine hatch.

My new dual switches arrived so that i can change the way i have my bilge wired, and combine anchor and running lights to free up a space for the shower pump and a dual USB charging switch.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2016 2:51 pm

got the amp rack carpet in last night. installed the amps. ran new wire to the starboard rear speaker. Pulled the power and ground freeds to the rear house bank. started wiring the speakers up. and then the rain came. BIG fat rain. So i called it a night. Tonight i shall finish the install along with fixing the speedo and installing the new prop that is due to arrive today. Ordered 2 Polyform Poly balls for raft ups. iBoats has a 40-55% off special on them at the moment.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Aug 08, 2016 10:19 am

nothing spectacular with photos. I have pulled new nicer heavier shielded speaker cables throughout, installed the stereo and tuned it. WOW what an improvement the second 12 with more power made over the previous rear 10" bazooka. The new rear speaker boxes and location improved the SQ dramatically. I did a couple dB test and laid out 93dB with a 10% power pull with 12.38v at the amps so i was very happy with that.

Just been doing little things. Swapped in a dual rocker switch to combine navigation and anchor lights into one dual throw rocker. This freed up a slot for a dual USB charging rocker. I have swapped out the last of the interior lights all but 1 with LED. Had to run all of the wires and snake and hide them for the amps and stereo so that too the better part of 3 hours as contorting my 6'2" frame in the small cavities is not that efficient. BUT it is done. The built in cooler is installed along with the new on/off ball valve drain and polished SS thru hull. New hose for the speedo was snaked along with a new transom pickup.

But overall we have been using the boat every weekend at least once, most of the time both days or combo in an evening dinner cruise in the week.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Aug 09, 2016 7:42 am

So I installed some clips on the inside of the engine hatch for storing the stern light and the bow table post. And UPS delivered my Polyform PolyBalls Im ready for raft up

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Aug 17, 2016 10:11 am

Had to order a new fuel sender last night. What an easy task it was to lift my rear bench seat and set a 4x4 under each side to allow access the the fuel hatch, slide it full forward resting on the ski locker allowing full access to the entire fuel tank. Love the way i now have the fuel setup. New Moeller Marine sender will arrive tomorrow Love you Amazon Prime. in time to hit the lake Friday with some friends for our long weekend camping trip on the island we scouted last weekend. I planned out how i will route the NMEA-2k fuel level wiring and fuel flow sender while i had everything open.. (WINTER PROJECT) I am looking forward to getting some of the digital gauges up and running on the new screen this winter. No i have not decided on a screen but it will be at least 7" touch that will be NMEA equiped.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Aug 22, 2016 10:43 am

potential new chart plotter location

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Aug 22, 2016 11:33 am

Good spot. Where are you going to move the tach to?

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:36 pm

Well i have to measure more in the day light and see. but my thoughts at the moment are to use a combination gauge.. like these. But i am fearing that i will not be able to fit 2 combo gauges to have back up mechanicals. and the screen centered. Now that the camp put weekend is over i am going to (at some point soon) make a cardboard template and see what gauges are available in a combo layout to see what i can do. As i feel centered would look the best. But If i mount it as shown offset i will move the tach to the speed position and this would only loose SPEED and Trim int eh large small small arrangement as shown. I will shoot Faria an email later this week and see what is available and my options.

www.iFourWinns.com

'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

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