Fixing the leaky transom -1994 H180

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

So the thread below tells the history of the issue but now the decision has been made (and blessed by the Admiral) that we are going to fix the boat vs. sell and buy another boat. It is a few years till we will be in the position to upgrade to something newer and larger and we didn't want to go through next summer without a boat. This year was pretty lame.

http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=14132&start=15

So I will try to document a bunch of the progress to help folks in the future. My main goals are:

Here we go!

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:23 pm

I did the same to my boat and more (structural renovation and outside paint job in marine Imron)
And I don't regret it one bit, because the older Horizons in some ways are superior to the later model and even current ones (larger for the same model, deeper cockpit, much easier engine access, steeper dead rise, hatch to access gas tank, etc).
Here is a suggestion: When you have the engine and drive out, have whoever is doing the work carefully check the engine mount stringers, they can rot too and its not as big a job to fix them at the same time. Then you're really all good

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Ok first question. How do I easily determine that static water line on the outdrive if my boat is on the trailer? I need to know this so I can determine the minimum engine height.

Maybe I don't need to know this? Maybe I just need the engine height from a known surface (floor) so when I reinstall the engine I can get it back to that height on the engine mounts.

Thanks!

DougT01 · **Joined:** Wed May 20, 2015 6:44 pm **Posts:** 121

Yep,
Sounds like measuring from a known fixed reference should be sufficient in my opinion.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:01 am

You're mixing up 2 things
1) to align the engine you need to us an alignment tool; if you don't do it right you will have trouble getting the drive back on and eventually you might blow the coupler requiring an engine pull.
2) Static water line can only be measured with it in the water; you would measure this to make sure your exhaust risers are high enough.

Google setting up engine alignment with the tool; it's not hard but it takes time....

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

I have the alignment tool and use it yearly to check my outdrive shaft to coupler alignment each year when I pull the drive.

My manual is asking me to measure the "minimum engine height" so that it can be astertained if an exhaust elbow high rise kit needs to be installed. Since I am not changing my boat in anyway that should make it sit deeper into the water then I should take a height measurement of the engine from the floor so that when I reinstall the engine I can be sure I have it at the proper height.

I will need to also adjust the position using the alignment tool to determine which way.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

So I need two tools I don't have.

Line wrench for the lines to the trim cylinder...I will either pick one up or modify a closed end wrench to do the job. I also need the steering arm puller (PN 984146). Does anyone have one that could give me the important measurements? It looks really simple and I am sure I could make one for much less than I could buy a used one off ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-TOOL-984146 ... f7&vxp=mtr

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Aug 29, 2015 6:04 pm

As far as the trim line tool, wonder if a brake line wrench would fit? Same idea...my boat is still in the water or else I could check....

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Yes...brake line wrench. Same tool with many names.

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:05 am

tymorrissette wrote:

I have the alignment tool and use it yearly to check my outdrive shaft to coupler alignment each year when I pull the drive.

My manual is asking me to measure the "minimum engine height" so that it can be astertained if an exhaust elbow high rise kit needs to be installed. Since I am not changing my boat in anyway that should make it sit deeper into the water then I should take a height measurement of the engine from the floor so that when I reinstall the engine I can be sure I have it at the proper height.

I will need to also adjust the position using the alignment tool to determine which way.

As long as you are not changing the exhaust system then this should not change from what it was previously. There are a few ways to measure static water line but as I said the boat needs to be in the water. One way is to take a 2x4 long enough to span the gunnels and overhang one side by about a foot. Put it so it is right over the tops of the riders. With the boat in the water measure the distance from the gunnel to the water line. Then with the 2x4 over the risers measure from the 2x4 to the top of the risers. The difference is the height of the risers above the water line. It should be at least 13" according to Merc if I recall.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Who knows the trick to remove that back portion of all the interior of the boat? It seems like I need to remove both sides as well? There must be something I am missing.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Still looking for any suggestions on how to remove that back pannel of interior!

Removed the tilt rams last night and it was a bear. Note to someone doing this in the future:

1) You can't fit a line wrench on the most distal fitting. You will have to use a regular wrench.
2) Before you remove the out drive, crack all of those fitting open just enough to break the seal. It is very hard to gain leverage on a wrench when those things are just hanging in the air by the hydraulic lines not connected to anything else.

I plan on making the 984146 tool today.

LouC · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 6:47 pm

Try looking behind it with an inspection mirror and a bright LED flashlight. There could be threaded studs that go into the wood backing that then go through holes in the glass and retain the panel with a nut on the inside...that's how the coaming panels are retained on my boat.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Has anyone here ever removed the gimbal housing using the 984146 tool? I am nervous about laying down some torque on this thing not knowing exactly what should be moving and what shouldn't be.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Sep 05, 2015 9:40 am

Never had to do that yet, thank goodness because with my use who knows if it would ever come apart!
You're removing the whole transom mount for the transom repair, right?
Once you get the shift cable disconnected, the drive off, engine out, then its disconnecting the trim lines, steering ram and the nuts on the inner transom plate; The outer plate/pivot housing etc should just pull off the transom. You don't need to do any other disassembly unless there is wear in the gimble/pivot bearings or steering pivots.

www.iFourWinns.com

Fixing the leaky transom -1994 H180

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