OK the things to check, fall in the categories of mechanical and hull/composites... Mechanical With the compression test, you are looking for consistent readings, 150-175 or so across all cyls. While they are at it, make sure they check the cyls and spark plugs for the presence of any water (ie water shoots out of a cyl while doing the comp test, or spark plugs have rust on the electrodes, or the center insulator is an orange color). This would point you toward leaky exhaust riser gaskets (look for rust trails emanating from the joint between the riser and manifold, if you see this on outside, you can guess that its been leaking on the inside too). If this becomes apparent, there is the specter of more expensive repairs in the future, due to corrosion inside the engine (ie wear on cyl walls due to corrosion on them and the piston rings, and sticky exhaust valves which will cause rough running when warming up). I'd also look very carefully at the dipstick for any sign of milky oil, and take off the oil fill cap, look inside the cover for milky oil deposits (looks like mayo) in there. If so, this could be anything from: leaky exhaust riser gaskets/rusted through exhaust manifolds/risers blown head gasket cracked head cracked block rusted out intake
Outdrive/transom mount: mechanic should pull the drain plug and look for water/milky oil coming out, this would point to leaking seals, need for a pressure test and re-sealing the outdrive ideally, the outdrive should be pulled off and the mechanic should check the bellows for water and cracks in the rubber, smooth movement of the gimble bearing and ujoints, and rust on the ujoints themselves. The gimble should turn very easily when turned by hand with the drive off. This should be done every season on I/Os but a lot of people neglect it, and cost themselves a pile 'o cash when the bellows starts to leak, rusts the gimble, it gets noisy, etc. Or, the drive gets corroded on and becomes a horror show to get it off. Check trim rams for leaks, proper operation. If one is leaking they can be rebuilt with new seals.
Hull/composite: I'm not sure when F/W changed from wood cores to full composite, but I bet that boat still has wood stringers, deck, engine mount pads and transom. You want to check for soft spots on the deck (floor), ie springyness when walking on it. Look in the ski locker, for signs of dark colored rotted wood. Engine mount pads, look for cracked fiberglass due to the wood inside rotting. Transom, look for cracks in the gelcoat/'glass suggesting rot inside. BE VERY CAREFUL looking for rot. Repairing it is not fun, been there done it will never do it again.
Water test: it should start easily and run smoothly. Engine temps should range from 160-175. Oil pressure, from 40-60 at speed, not less than 20 or so at hot slow idle. Drive should shift well, not grind or jump out of gear. Make sure to try reverse. Trim should function well up and down. Engine should pull up to its max rpm (ie about 4800). After you run it on plane, and bring it back to idle, check the oil pressure and temp. Temp should not be over 175, oil press not lower than 20 or so. Notice if there is flexing in the hull, windshield, etc. They are good boats, but due to the age of it, there could be a lot of issues. Mainly due to lack of regular maintenance and improper storage.
My next boat will be close to new, and outboard powered. I'm done with the maintenance needs of I/O power in salt water..... Evinrude has a 10 year warrantee, I might go for this.
_________________ 88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl 2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5 2008 Walker Bay 8
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II
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