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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 2:42 pm
Posts: 1152
Location: Kansas City, MO
I would do a little research about your neighbors and what they use their moorage for. If they use a lot of shore power, then galvanic corrosion MAY be an issue you will need to look into and be concerned with.

I couldn't disagree more with the concept of unhooking your battery. How does an automatic bilge pump function if you get a ton of water in there from a storm, blown off cover, etc.

Good advice on the cover. In case you don't already have a cover to fit a 220H, I will now make a shameless plug for the one I'm selling that I won't be using on my 220H:

clicky

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2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:28 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
I'm guessing the notion of 'disconnecting' the batteries was through the use of the battery switch, not to physically disconnect the cables from the batteries themselves. That would be a dumb idea for precisely the bilge pump reason. I always make it a habit to turn off all breakers that do not need to be enabled. Both AC and DC. Then I also turn off the batteries at the main switch. About the only thing I leave on are the AC breakers for the battery charger and the refrigerator.

During the first season I had the no appreciable corrosion on the transom anode. The shaft anodes got lost; thrown off the shafts somehow. Their replacements lasted through the next season, and probably would've carried through to this Spring. But since I had the boat out of the water, and the anodes are cheap, I just replaced them. The engine anodes are going to get replaced next week, but still probably had enough left to 'get through' this season. I'll probably do the transom anode ($$$) when I have a diver clean the bottom (probably sometime in May). I can usually see it when we're swimming so it gets monitored on a reasonably regular basis. I do talk with nearby slip neighbors and nobody has mentioned any unexpected anode problems.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 8:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 12:02 pm
Posts: 652
Location: Dallas TEXAS
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Hull blistering is a lot less of a problem with today's gelcoat compounds and construction methods.
You keep telling yourself that. All it takes is 1 speck of dirt, 1 air pocket, one long fiberglass thread in that mold during the vacuum. Trailer it, lift it or paint or be prepared for it to look like a 10 year old boat in 2 years.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:22 am 
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All Night Long
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Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:03 am
Posts: 1899
Location: Lake Washington, Seattle, WA
For a boat left in the water 365 days a year - I agree with TXJole2... But for a boat that is pulled during the off months and spends maybe 6 months out of the year on a clean, freshwater lake - with regular cleaning maintenance and upkeep - I call BS.

How do I know that? I've owned a boat long enough around here -- and moored it for 3 seasons on the same lake. I never pulled it during the season, but I did do a hull clean at the end of each season - and when I sold the boat - the hull looked brand spankin' new.

Maybe it's different where you are from - but in Seattle, apparently our water has less contaminants or something.

Bring on the blisters! I'm looking forward to using that 2 year structural hull warranty I guess!

Coincidentally -- Law and I are actually in the same little mini-marina! Bring on the Four Winns club!

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