www.iFourWinns.com

Hey all. As mentioned in the past I am upgrading the factory stereo and I have made it to the point of building the sub box and wiring in the ground and power for the amp. So a couple of quick questions as something has occurred to me. I would simply experiment myself but I would love to get his finished tonight and I thought you guys would have already thought of these and found some answers.

- Has everyone wired directly to a battery or has anyone wired to the battery switch? I was just curious but I am thiniking since I can Isolate 1 of the 2 batteries from the switch am I not still protected against sucking them both dry on the hook? Plus this way I could select the battery I want to jam to and alternate the drain on either (I was told it is a good thing to let an auto battery to drain & re-charge every now and again - same diff?)

- Secondly, can anyone tell me if the head mem power (not acc or illumination power) is wired to the always hot like the bilge pump or is this the same frustrating arrangement like my last boat where everytime you throw the battery switch that all the head settings like bass / fade / stations are erased? If this is the case I am going to change that. I think the always hot is Orange w Brown Stripe?

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

Yep, orange/brown 12v+ full time.

Auto batteries do not need to be drained. You will want to hook the amp up direct to a single batt, then throw the switch to where you do not pull from the other. Use a deep cycle for the amp, keep the cranking for the starter.

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H210SS 6.2
F150 Platinum

You can also wire your positive amp lead to the hot side of the switch for said deep cycle battery, and the negative to that battery's ground post. I believe the memory wire for the head unit varies by make, with Clarion it is yellow. The FW Bilge power wire is BRN/ORG. By default FW wires this to the harness and to the optional battery switch such that turning the switch to a/b/or off the bilge will still run, whereas truning the swith to off will wipe the head unit's pre-sets with default wiring. Rather than wiring to the battery via the bilge power wire, you might look at some of the after market 9V battery style memory savers, these work even if the ground wire is pulled from the battery. I am surprised that the 210 has the factory second battery with switch option, my manual shows this as an option for 220's and up.

I wired up my amp almost a month ago, but hope to begin building my sub box this weekend. You started late, but may end up reaching the finish line before me. What did you decide to do with your sub box - under the bench, facing sideways? I'm leaning towards under the bench and forward facing. I expect me and my drill will have to do some creative venting.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

I was going to cut the sub box tonight but it is starting to run late and I am just getting the power/ground all straightened out. I have decided to try the side fire stratagy with some hidden venting. If it turns out lame then I will just go ahead and move it to the kicker like I should do in the first place. I figure I can try this way and if it is not so great I can change it without doing repairwork. Once I cut the hole for the kicker spot it's really a done deal.
I think for the moment I am just going to run the heads memory to the bilge power - seems rediculous that it isn't already - especially on a dual batt setup. Surely the memory doesn't draw that much power. I never have mine left that long uncovered or unattended so if she takes on that much water it would be because I have neglected it. I am not sure she would sink - man I am finding there is a lot of foam in these things
Pretty heavy boat though - probably only enough foam to buy you a little time . . . .

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

Guess I'm still going back and forth on forward versus side firing. The side firing box would be a lot easier to craft - only 90 degree angles. Maybe trying side firing first is the way to go.

On the memory/bilge I left the memory wire where it is for now. But I did not like the stock bilge pump arrangement at all. I pulled the stock rule 500 and now have two Rule 1500 pumps, one wired to each battery. I agree that the memory lead won't draw drain a battery enough to make a difference. But I do leave mine unattended for up to two weeks at a time, although it's up on a lift and securely covered. I upgraded the bilge pumps for those unforseen circumstances, like having to change an impeller while afloat, or to buy some time should the hull get ruptured. Or even to allow for a leasurely cruise back to the ramp should I forget the drain plug. But then, my old boat was filled with water to the point where the starter was toast three times. Once while on the trailer! Upgrading the bilge pumps felt like the right thing to do to me.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Hey Blessed...

You are spot on if you can snag a wire to run the stereo memory from. I didn't change mine, and it's getting annoying that I have to reset EVERYTHING when I switch the power off. Definitely something I will be changing at some point.

As for wiring the amp... You can go direct from the switch - althoug the safe bet is a direct + and - straight to the battery of your choice. Pick one and remember that's the one. i used bat #1 for example... That's my main running battery, although I will switch to "both" on occassion just to make sure the other is always charged up.

Lookin' forward to seeing pics of your install!

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2008 318 Vista -SOLD, but I am still around!
All Night Long, Seattle WA

HOLY $H!T !!!!!
Is that the reaction you had CC? I can't believe the sound out of just those 4 speakers! Ohhh this was sooo worth it, I would do some postin' but I got a freakin thumpin headache now (part of that is just tired though)!
Can't wait to get the sub in. After tonights sneak preview, I am definately reserving tomorrow eve for that. I am going to go for the side firing - it will be non destructive - hidden and even if it only works half a$$ed it should be more than plenty with the kit so far. Thanks for the guidance gang this setup is the everything I wanted to accomplish with it and more . . . and more

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

Jim_R, I just got what you were describing. Ooooooh. I was just taking final measurements (for the third time) and I see how you were thinking of leaning the sub forward. That seems to be a better idea although you are also right in it getting more complicated with some unusual angles. However a cubed box gives me a 10 1/2" face - the sub is 10 1/2" overall I think but the hole only needs to be 8 3/4" so in a cube scenario it would only just fit.
With the face leaning out at the top I think I get another 1/2" in the face height - plus the sub is leaning toward the floor which should be good - closer to Tx's setup than firing horizontal.
I notice that the kick panel has a void between it and the bench structure - maybe as much as 3" in places and across the full width. Maybe cut the vent hole in the bench frame front (the front panel doesn't support much anyway) and a let it blast into the entire kick panel void? If required you could even do a couple of 2" vent holes on either end (where they are hidden) of the kick panel fascia?
I am going to give it some thought tonight as I cut the box. I think I will take advantage of the sloped bench frame either way to claim some needed volume in the box. Maybe I will just try it first in some 5/8" cabinet ply I have laying around and see how it works out.
As for rattling - I did find something that makes quite a bit of noise - that panel behind the bench that gives you an access to the engine front. It only has 2 screws holding it on and you only have to knock on the bulkhead to make it rattle. I will be straightening that out.

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

That's exactly what I was thinking. Make the angle of the business side of the subwoofer enclosure match the angle of the star board seat wall, get the extra mounting height, and cut a circle in the star board to blast out towards the fiberglass 'front' of the bench. For a time, I was even thinking of using small offset holes to make a grill in the 'front', but like you I want to hear the sound without additional venting first.

I just have to manhandle my '87 Maxum 1700 BR (for sale) out of the garage this weekend to dig out the old shopsmith mark 5, and I can start fabricating. Lucky I have a three day weekend. I even have a good cover story - making a window box planter for the admiral. "Gee Honey, those angles are pretty complex, it's taking me longer than I thought. I also need some brackets and mounting screws, one or two more trips to the hardware store ought to do it." She's silly, she just wants to spend time using the boat, and so is against me spending time upgrading it.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

"She's silly, she just wants to spend time using the boat, and so is against me spending time upgrading it. "


They just don't get it. The best part is, they don't realize how much they enjoy the upgrades you do.

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H210SS 6.2
F150 Platinum

I made some progress on my box.

Piece parts.


Some assembly required.


Tight fit.


Skinned it.


Almost there.


Had to take the rotozip to enlarge the under the seat access a bit to be able to get it in and out via the seat access. Still need to wire up the subwoofer and mount it to the box, then install into the H200. Next weekend!

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Almost forgot. The Admiral got her window box too.





Blessed, how is your sub install progressing? Did you go forward facing or side? BTW - I found the angle FW used on the sunsport seat frame is either 75 or 105 degrees, depending on how you look at it. It does allow for 11" of height on the face, although just.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Jim - You beat me. Actually, if I had taken pics - they would look exactly like yours except I went wider to try and meet the suggested cu.ft.
Spent the weekend off & on at it (mostly running back & forth to Home Depot & the coffee shop) but it is complete to the point of hanging in the garage drying.
Angles I used were 9 & 15 deg which I guess is pretty close to the same thing. I was in such a rush to get it completed I did not take any assembly pics (the phone was dead) but I will draw out the design to a .jpg if it fits right - and if anyone is interested in doing the same thing.
Going to stuff the box a bit (its slightly less than suggested cu.ft.) and second coat tonight so I should tackle the install tues.
Did you try it out yet Jim? Hows it working? The planter looks like it could take 4 @ 6" mids - hmmm. If the admiral finds her forget-me-nots in a pile under the window I guess we'll know where to look -

Oh, almost forgot - the RotoZip can be a dangerous thing. IF YOU FIND YOURSELF IN THE BOW YOU'VE GONE TOO FAR!! It is fun, I found myself looking around for other things to cut before images of a flat black hull flashed through my mind . . . and I put it away.

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

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H210SS 6.2
F150 Platinum

My suggested cu.ft is .66, what's yours?

I didn't get to try it out yet, maybe Thursday - still plenty of time for you to regain the lead.

On the flower box, I do actually have two Polk Audio db 650's that I'm still looking for a use for... instead maybe one day I'll figure out a way to mount a Clarion 6.5" speaker cover over them and put them in the boat.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP