DanW wrote:
To change engine oil, do you have to get a pump to get the old oil out? I'm assuming gearcase lube is changed the same way as on an outboard?
Yep as noted you pump it out the dipstick tube...there are many oil pumps on the market...both electric and vaccum...I have a vaccum one (The Topsider) that I made an adaptor for and that allows me use the garden hose fitting on the dipstick tube...this avoids using the really small plastic tube all the way down the dipstick tube which was too restrictive and made the oil change take too long...That's the easy part...if you don't have a remote oil filter mount...reaching it can be a challenge...(standard small block Chevy location is left rear corner of the engine). Some boats you can get at it (mine) some you can't easily, those should have the remote mount often on an exhaust riser...In mine I've been thinking of putting a remote mount because I have to remove the rear seat to get at the filter and move back the battery on that side..lie down next to the engine on a foam pad...
The gearcase well just follow the manufacturers instructions. Each one (Volvo Merc and OMC) is done a litle differently. Make sure you get the full amount of gear oil specified by the manufacturer in there and use the oil they specify. It also takes a special pump if you have a Volvo...the standard pump works for OMCs and Mercs....
As a new I/O owner make sure you follow the winterizing procedure in the fall exactly and do not take any shortcuts the worst of which is thinking you can winterize by using one of those kits that sucks up antifreeze through the drive using ear muffs...they do NOT work on raw water cooled engines and can result in a cracked block. Drain everything as per the manual and if you want to use antifreeze for corrosion protection then manually pour it in via the hoses...I've done this for 8 years without a problem. And as soon as it's getting down to the high 30s at night...it's TIME do not wait and they we get these posts..."will one night of 30 degrees crack and engine" well yes if it stays at 30 long enough...I do mine in late Oct when the boat comes out for the season...
At winterization I change the engine oil...filter...drive oil...fog the engine...drain everything...fill with AF (-100) and then I remove the drive...check for water in the bellows....grease the gimble and u-joints..and store the drive in the garage till spring. If I find water in the gear oil then I take the drive to the shop to get re-sealed...
In the spring I re-install the drive..lube the shift linkage....replace the impeller...tune the engine...that's pretty much it as long as nothing else breaks!
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