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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 12:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:17 pm
Posts: 521
Location: Metro Detroit/Holland MI
My '97 did not come standard with dual batteries, it was an option. I think even the single battery setup came with on on/off switch.

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Terry
Current: 07 Crownline 255 CCR cuddy - 350 Mag MPI/B3 "Casi Cielo"

Previous:97 245 Sundowner 5.7GI/SX

Tow vehicle: 1986 GMC 2500 Camper Special 454/TH400
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 2:50 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm
Posts: 55
I went and seen it today,"It does have dual batteries and a selector switch"
I looked around the best I could,pulled on things,watched the floors when I walked opened all hatches,looked for rust stain,tapped on the transom with a hammer,Seemed good and crisp and bounced off and didnt sound different in different spots. The orange rusty color by the manifold riser area was just the sealant they used,However there was a bit of corrosion by the intake manifold,but it didnt look bad or excessive.

We called the owner to ask a few questions and only talked to his wife as her husband has some terminal sickness and now he's in a hospice/nursing type home. So as far as getting records,she claims he pretty much did all maintenance himself,so there are No records. Thats always scary,but I know I like to do most work I can myself. But there was a shop manual as well as the owners manual was on board and was used with high lighted sections,so that means nothing but makes me feel a little better anyway.

The outdrive was coated in this silver paint looked really clean,but was for sure painted. I thought for some reason that was the factory color as I seen other boats with the silver colored outdrives.
I know I read about some volvo outdrive "forget the model name" but was Complete garbage and should be avoided even if it was free,But im fairly certain this is not the model since this is the duo drive,Can anyone confirm this? The props looked very nice SS.

So I guess over all I didnt see anything that makes me uneasy or scared me,the boat was labeled all over,fairly clean,life jackets,cleaning supplies stored away neatly and he was the 2nd owner since 2002,So I made a offer of $10,500 and was accepted.

I didnt hear it run yet,so I just made a small refundable deposit and making a appointment next week with their marina mechanic to fire it up,and hes also going to pull the drive for a inspection,If all that goes well I should be on the water this spring. Sound like I did ok for myself?

If all goes well,and I got the boat less than what I thought I would I was going to just have them change the water intake pump,bellows and bearing. From your past experience what do you think they will charge for that? Im guessing around a grand,but he didnt know for sure and is going to have the mechanic call me,but he kept bringing it up and each time his estimate kept growing larger,lol,just wondering what you think it would be ,,,Thanks!

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
ProfitOfDoom wrote:
If all goes well,and I got the boat less than what I thought I would I was going to just have them change the water intake pump,bellows and bearing. From your past experience what do you think they will charge for that? Im guessing around a grand,but he didnt know for sure and is going to have the mechanic call me,but he kept bringing it up and each time his estimate kept growing larger,lol,just wondering what you think it would be ,,,Thanks!

I assume you mean to change the water pump impeller, not the whole pump. I don't know, but I would guess that Impeller, Bellows, Bearing and Labor would be maybe $300 parts and $500 labor? Plus you might not need a new bearing, but they need to check and grease the bearing and U-joints.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 3:33 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm
Posts: 55
Yes you are correct with just the impeller.
So if the mechanic says everything looks good which they charge $135 to pull the drive and check,Should I just ride it out for another year,or am I wise just to have everything replaced even if it doesnt need it?

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
ProfitOfDoom wrote:
Yes you are correct with just the impeller.
So if the mechanic says everything looks good which they charge $135 to pull the drive and check,Should I just ride it out for another year,or am I wise just to have everything replaced even if it doesnt need it?

You will probably have to take their recommendation. The driveshaft Bellows last a long time, but should be changed at the first sign of any cracking. The exhaust bellows (the lower one) is much less critical since it does not matter if they leak. In fact, most exhaust bellows have slits cut in the bottom as drain slots. The bearing also last many years, and only needs to be changed when it has excess play or other signs of wear. If they find water in the driveshaft bellows, then the bearing and u-joints both must be examined closely and re-greased, or replaced.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
If you don't know when it was last removed the drive should be removed and all the things I listed checked and serviced. Reason being is that if an outdrive is seldom removed even in fresh water it can be very difficult to remove. All it takes is a little aluminum corrosion at the point where the mounting studs come out of the pivot housing (the studs are stainless steel and the housings are aluminum).
The Volvo does not use a gasket between the pivot and the drive so it is possible for that to happen. The OMC Cobra with a similar transom design but with a gasket between the drive and pivot is not as prone to this, due to the lack of metal to metal contact.
A bit of OMC triple guard grease on the mating surfaces and on the studs will help to prevent this....

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:38 am 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:22 am
Posts: 41
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
As well as all the great advice already, I would suggest getting a certified VP mechanic to put the VP computer over it and check all software codes that come up.
That should reveal any other tell tale signs of historical engine issues still resident, given that the guy may have done all his own maintenance.
One piece of advice from LouC is critical IMO - get a compression test! Any issues with water dripping into the heads through leaks in the system will burn out valves (personal experience!), and is costly to refurbish the heads.

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2006 Sundowner 255
Volvo Penta 5.7L GXi 320HP DuoProp
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