www.iFourWinns.com

If they're about 1/4" in diameter and white then they're probably pop-out breakers. They only pop-out when they overload. Unlike switch breakers.

HU mode is deHUmidify mode. On a Crusair AC system you put the system into this mode by pressing three buttons together all at once. The HU mode puts the AC into a cycling mode. On a configurable schedule it turns itself on and then runs a likewise configurable time. It's configurable because some areas may be more humid than others, or during different times of the year. I seem to recall it defaults to running for 15 minutes every 8 hours, or something like that. It doesn't have a humidity sensor, thus the reason for the configurable settings. The manual for this explains it nicely.

I still have to go back and read one of the many manuals all the time. Just this weekend I finally got around to resetting the time on the Clarion radio (what a pain in the ass that was). So don't feel like you're alone in being overwhelmed by all the different instruction materials!

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Guys - at risk of bumping the thread off course I thought I would report an interesting issue we had this weekend. We went down to the Cleveland airshow Monday and came home 25 miles in windblown 4' head seas. Not pleasant. Took our time and the boat did fine but we took some pounding.

Got the boat in the slip and noticed a couple of odd things. Number one was that the freshwater tank which was 2/3 full when we left was now empty. Number two was when I hooked up dockside water the water just ran, it didn't pressurize the system and then stop as usual. Third was water pouring heavily out of thrull hull fitting on the SB side. Never seen that before. So, even I was able to conclude at this point that something was amiss.

With the help of my brother-in-law, we were able to trouble shoot the issue and found the fresh water pump had become dislodged from the mounting board under the v-berth. The input hose had also become disconnected (hence the water pouring out of the boat) and was dangling. As water was turned on at the transom, it poured out of that hose, down the center of the boat and out the SB side.

I was able to reconnect the hose and temporarily remount the pump. The main purpose of the message is just to alert all of you to the main issue of what I think was a lousy job by FW to mount the pump. There are four flanges integral to the pump housing and the pump is mounted to the board with large wood screws and rubber grommets. The rubber grommets tore under the load and the screws pushed through the mounting flanges allowing the pump to come lose. Poor engineering in my view.

I'm going to come up with a better mounting method. Maybe I'll take pics if anyone is interested. Brad

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"Foursome Fun" 2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards
Lake Erie - Ohio

Previous Boat:
2003 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer

I noticed the pump mounting technique when I installed a fill bypass and an anchor washdown hose. It is a bit "less than ideal" for something as heavy as a pump. Being up in the bow like that in heavy choppy seas definitely seems like it'd put a lot of stress on how it's mounted. My pump had been replaced once (can't recall why) so it was mounted a bit better.

When taking boats out into chop it's important to avoid letting the hull pound. On large fishing 'battle wagons' it's less of an issue. But for recreational boat, often intended for inshore or lake use, it can really cause some unexpected damage. All that wood cabinetry and stuff down in the cabin weighs a lot. Slamming it around will, sooner or later, cause something to dislodge and shift. Avoiding the chop might mean a longer and wetter trip but that's certainly cheaper than dealing with damage.

The good news, at least, is that your mid-cabin bilge pump did it's job.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Battery update: just heard from the dealer that the V358 is supposed to have Group 31's, not 27's so they are replacing.

Another pump-related note: I had to disassemble and reassemble my fresh water pump while out on the hook this weekend. It was constantly running at a low level running down my (too small) battery and getting very hot. The seals were not as tight as they needed to be. Someone in the Sureflo factory must have skipped breakfast and skimped on properly tightening the screws. They probably came even looser after four months of running the boat. It now works better than ever and I got to explore yet another part of my vessel. I didn't notice sub-standard mounting, but I wasn't really looking for it.

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards

First off, for bteven and sierra, your pump and battery issues indicate problems that should not occur on BRAND NEW BOATS! It's disappointing to hear about problems like that. I hope you guys get the problems resolved satisfactorily. The factory should be advised of these poor quality design/component issues.

WK - my pop out breakers won't "pop back in." I tried pushing and pulling but can't reset them. Any advice?

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2006 348 Vista
"some days you're the bug and some days you're the windshield"

"Should not", now there's a laugh. Yeah, we can all wish that wasn't the case but no production boat is free of these niggling annoyances.

As for the breakers, they're pretty simple. If they're not working then, well, they're broken. But give your dealer a call and ask, maybe there's more to it.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

The battery capacity issue seems to be a common dilemma. The 358 has three batteries, port, starboard and house. Meaning only one battery is available for house stuff. My Searay had three batteries, starboard and two in parallel to start port engine and provide house needs. This double the house size but means you can risk running down a starting battery.

I'm surprised that neither boat had dedicated space for extra batteries. Even if they didn't install them, a spot for them would be nice.

My boat spends every night in her slip, so this hasn't been an issue.

RJrose- if you can't reset the breaker, maybe the short still exists? In that case they might reset for a split second then re-pop

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

The 348 with inboards has a shelf area underneath the swim platform. That's where I mounted my two extra batteries. The sterndrive models have enough room ahead of the engines to install a shelf across the engine stringers.

Tying the port engine battery and the ships battery together seems like a decent idea. And as long as there's a battery combiner switch you don't have to worry (much) about not having enough juice left to start it. Just tie in the starboard one and you're good to go. That might probably be enough of a solution for most situations. I've no idea what it would take to rewire all of it properly. Probably not all that much come to think of it. But it'd still be a bit more of a job than I'd tackle with an in-warranty boat. Adding more batteries was a lot simpler, circuit-wise.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I must admit that I have had NO battery issues with my new 358. Longest day on the hook was about 5-6 hours with radio going the whole time, Cockpit fridge running and cabin fridge running. DC volts got down to about 11 at the lowest point. I would think that if I was going to spend the night I would probably run the genny for the AC and this would automatically charge the batteries. Anyway once I fired up the engines and headed back I checked the dc volts after about 20 min and I was at 13volts, fully charged.

On another matter, has anyone seen rusting around any of your stainless fittings? I have orange rust colored stains around my enging compartment hinges on the swim platform. I am also noticing the same thing around some of the snaps and around the mount for the aft vertical support for the camper top.

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2008.Fourwinns V358
1999 SeaRay340 Sundancer
1989 SeaRay 260 Cuddy

Yes, I've seen rusting around the engine hatch hinges. Cheap screws apparently. On my list of things to replace. Oh, go around and check the screws on the ladder lid and the platform storage lockers. Again, cheap screws, as they seem to strip out. I'm seeing more than half of them need replacing. Fortunately a local hardware store has decent prices on screws and such. Given that I need a whole slew of them I may look into finding them online.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I find it pretty hard to believe your battery "recharged" in that short of a time. I found mine took at least 2 hours with the genset running to bring it back up to full capacity. But then my "experience" with the recharging is limited, after 3 weekends of that nonsense I got fed up and just added more capacity rather than play a no-win juggling act for power consumption. If I wanted that nonsense I'd get a danged sailboat. Other boaters I know just run their genset constantly instead.

If you let the system battery go lower than 12v you'll have trouble running the chartplotter. At least, in my experience, the E-80 really starts acting up if the power dips below 12v. If you're not opening the fridges then they won't be running their usual amount and killing the battery. My typical time period for battery issues was after about 9 hours. That's getting underway on the boat around 10am for about an hour underway, and by 7 pm having trouble on the chartplotter and noting the battery drop. I'm sure that also affects recharge time. It might be that the 5-6 hour discharge time has a much shorter recovery time that my typical 7-9 hours.

But after adding the two 6v batteries in series I've never had issues over the course of whole weekends.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I would get about 5-6 hours before issues arose. I agree the battery would not re-charge that quickly especially from the alternators. Not sure how you are calculating that.

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2008 Four Winns V358 (T 6.2L Merc Bravo III's with DTS and SeaCore)
2006 Sea Ray 340DA
2006 Sea Ray 320DA
2005 Maxum 3100 SE

The engine each have at least a 60 amp alternator. That's 120 amps of charging power, well more that the 40 amp battery charger. One battery is less than 100 amp-hours of capacity, but charging is less efficient, but again the battery may not have been totally dead. Twenty minutes to charge is probably just a surface charge, but it not going to take more than an hour to recharge a 50% discharged battery.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH

Some more observations on the '09 V358 now that it's up on the FW site...

-Good to see there are color options for the cockpit seats.

-They're showing it with the Axius setup and smartcraft vessel view (port of the wheel)

-They're not showing the Volvo 5.7 inboard as an option

-Still showing with twin stereo receivers which surprises me

-Showing with the salon TV on the bulkhead

-The settee is clearly pushed back to port where they removed cabinets. The new design looks like it makes for a convertible berth that will actually work well

-Showing with teak-look cockpit carpet

-New accent lights in forward and mid-cabins


Those are the primary items I noticed in addition to what we've discussed here before.

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards

Soley based on the pictures, I am glad we have a 2008 model. Final judgment to be withheld pending physical inspection at this year's round of boat shows!

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2008 Four Winns V358 (T 6.2L Merc Bravo III's with DTS and SeaCore)
2006 Sea Ray 340DA
2006 Sea Ray 320DA
2005 Maxum 3100 SE

A little birdie told me that the '09 V358 will be the cover boat for the November issue of Boating Magazine.

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Previously:
2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards