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bndfishing
 Post subject: Re: Battery confusion
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:34 pm 
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firecadet613 wrote:
bndfishing wrote:
I just replaced both batteries and and switched from a 27 for the house to a 31, now I have all kinds of power. If I can just get my battery isolation problem fixed I will be a happy camper.


Did you have the problem before you switched batteries?


Yes the problem has been there for quite a while. The good thing is that the manufacturer of the isolator is right here in Portland so I can take it to them and have it tested. A bad isolator is the only thing I can think would cause the problem I am having, and what might have cooked my old battery.

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bndfishing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:27 pm 
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Finally got around to testing the isolator after I went to go for a ride and the new start battery was dead. Turns out, sure enough, the isolator was shot. I replaced the isolator, now when I have the house battery disconnected and flip the breaker none of the systems come on :idea: The batteries are now fully isolated, now I get to find out just how long I can stay out on just 1 battery.

FYI the Sure Power 702 (70 amps 2 batteries) isolator is a bit difficult to find except online. The next set up is a 952 (95 amps 2 batteries) The larger unit is only about $8.00 more and it is a direct replacement, the mounting holes line up perfectly. I got mine from Camping World but most any RV store will have them.

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firecadet613
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:26 pm 
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Sweet, thanks for the update. Maybe this is Flyer51's issue on his '08 278?

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Flyer51
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 2:53 pm 
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I'm wondering that too. I've got two pages of notes as to what is going on with my batteries and still haven't come to a conclusion. I haven't been to the boat for a few weeks but intend to be there this weekend. I'm going to spend a little more time looking into this and I'm going to take a look at my isolator. Is there any way to test that to tell if it could be bad? I've already talked to my dealer and plan to have him look into the problem when I take it to be winterized in a few weeks.

I wasn't at the boat last weekend because I was visiting an old friend who has a home in Ludington, Michigan. I spent Thursday night at St Joseph and walked the marina there then had lunch Friday in Saugatuck at the marina. I looked at lots of nice boats still on the water and the weather was awesome. Had dinner Saturday night at the marina in Ludington. You guys have a lot of nice areas to boat.

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bndfishing
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:18 pm 
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Flyer51 wrote:
I'm wondering that too. I've got two pages of notes as to what is going on with my batteries and still haven't come to a conclusion. I haven't been to the boat for a few weeks but intend to be there this weekend. I'm going to spend a little more time looking into this and I'm going to take a look at my isolator. Is there any way to test that to tell if it could be bad? I've already talked to my dealer and plan to have him look into the problem when I take it to be winterized in a few weeks.

I wasn't at the boat last weekend because I was visiting an old friend who has a home in Ludington, Michigan. I spent Thursday night at St Joseph and walked the marina there then had lunch Friday in Saugatuck at the marina. I looked at lots of nice boats still on the water and the weather was awesome. Had dinner Saturday night at the marina in Ludington. You guys have a lot of nice areas to boat.


Here are the testing instructions from their website. Mine failed all the tests.

Quote:
1. Remove all wires from the isolator.
2. Using a needle movement ohmmeter RX-1 scale or a digital ohmmeter diode scale, hold the Red* probe on the terminal "A" and with
the Black* probe touch terminal #1 and #2, and the "E" terminal for 3A isolators (group 2), and the "R" terminal for (group 3) isolators.
A good isolator will show a current flow from "A" to #1, #2 and "R", and no current flow to "E".
3. Next, hold the Black* probe on the "A" and with the Red* probe touch terminal #1 and #2 (terminal "E" and "R", if used). A good
isolator will allow no current flow from "A" to #1, #2 or "R" and will show current flow from "E" to "A".
4. Hold one probe on the aluminum heat sink, being sure there is contact by scratching through the protective coating. Then touch
with the other probe, terminals "A", #1, #2 (the "E" terminal for 3A isolators [group 2] , the "R" terminal for group 3 isolators). A
good isolator will show no current flow.
5. Colored terminal indicates "E" post on group 2 isolators and "R" terminal on most group 3 isolators.
*On some import ohmmeters, the red and black probes are reversed for these tests.
**If using a digital ohmmeter, a diode scale MUST be used.

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Flyer51
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Thanks for that update. I went to Sure Power's website and I could not find that information. I was looking for a diagram that showed the terminals or better yet are the terminals marked on the isolator itself. I've printed out these instructions and have already packed them to go to the boat this weekend. Hope the forecast is wrong and we get some nice weather here in the midwest.

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bndfishing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:45 pm 
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"A" is the center post and "1 and 2" are the outside posts. Basically you are looking for continuity from the center post to each outside post one way, and no continuity from the center post to outside posts when you switch the leads. If you have continuity on either post during both tests you have a bad isolator.

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