LouC wrote:
As I said...Electrickery....
Those of you with boats old enough to have the old fashioned glass fuses, they can look good, but be oxidized enough to cause intermittent problems. I had replaced my 27 year old alternator recently and was checking voltage levels, and found that I had no juice at the ignition terminal on the ignition switch. I checked continuity of the ignition fuse with the meter, tested good, but still no juice. Popped a new fuse in and it worked fine. Moral of the story is, continuity tests do not verify that voltage can pass through a connection.....
When I climbed out from under the dashboard, and looked at the fuse in the light, you could see oxidation on the outside, but also on the inside as well....
Time to replace all the old fuses.....
Thinking back I had the same issue with my VHF radio last summer....
Even for those of you with newer boats, I think Volvo continued to use the OMC style 50 amp glass fuses in the engine and tilt n trim harnesses on the rear of the engine, there was also a 20 amp glass fuse in there as well. Might be a good idea to take stock of what fuses your boat uses and keep spares on hand.
That is a very good point, but "continuity tests do not verify that voltage can pass through a connection....." is not voltage , but amps. So you might have 12v at the other end by using a meter and what it is powering still is not working. As Lou is pointing out. That wire could have so much rust in it that not eough current/amps can pass though it.
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