formulax wrote:
It looks like on the diagram they are showing some sort of breaker box. All I am adding is a second battery and a single audio amplifier. Will I simply connect the amp directly to that upper left post on the switch? (fused of course).
Also, and this is probably sad, but how do all of the other electronics in the boat wire to the battery? Right now on my single battery setup there is only a negative wire that goes directly to a ground and the positive that goes directly to the starter. When I add the second battery and switch will I need to re-wire the other electronics in the boat to go to the accessory post, or is it all smart enough to run the starting battery as a starting battery only and everything else will switch over to the house battery?
Thanks!
Ok
basically you are doing what i did but i added 2 batteries for my house bank.
1) LEFT rear post so you will disregard the breaker panel and think of that as your resettable breaker for the AMP(s) then a long lead to the amps.
2) LEFT upper post goes to your existing fuse panel that feeds your switches and gauges.
this leaves only the motor pulling power from the starting battery. run the stereo dead and just turnt he key and your start battery fires the engine.
WIRE your bilge pump to the start battery so that if for some reason house goes dead and you take on water bilge still has power. This will be the only change in wiring that you will need to do. You will simply wire the hot constant float to the start battery and that was it. The manual engage wiring stays the same as before.
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Not Penny's Boat
1993 190 Horizon 5.0L EFI http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111361977 14' CMF Skiff SOLD
2015 Emotion Stealth Angler 11