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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:10 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:37 pm
Posts: 31
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
I have a 2001 Horizon 180 with the Volvo Penta 4.3GL with 240 hours. It sees only occasional usage, but ever since I replaced the impeller and o-ring at the beginning of the season, I'm getting a small leak and water flung around the engine compartment. Is this likely a problem with the o-ring, or does this suggest the pump needs to be re-built or replaced? Should I try some RTV in addition to the o-ring? Is there a way to check the bearings and seals on the pump?

It's not much more than a drip every few seconds, so I plan to continue to use it until the end of the season, but if it's an easy fix (like RTV) I'd like to try it out while we're still on the water (probably through October.). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:22 am
Posts: 461
Location: Chicago
Had the same problem on my 99 Horizon. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me. Ended up the brass pump was wore out on the inside. Brass is fairy soft & previous owner used boat in the river. Water in rivers has lots of stuff in it that acts like sand paper to the inside of the pump.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 6:24 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
It could be dripping from your O-ring seal, or it could be leaking from the shaft seal. Unfortunately, both are towards the back so it's hard to get a good enough look even with a cell phone camera on a running engine.

Volvo Penta only sells the complete pump and does not offer a rebuild, but here is a thread where I rebuilt mine myself, saving a lot of money: http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=12060

Captkevin is right that if sand/silt has worn out the inside of a brass pump, it should be replaced. But if it is just the seal or bearing, then it can be rebuilt. Wear from sand/silt should not cause a leak to the outside...only loss of pumping pressure.

Ray

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 6:32 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2011 2:09 pm
Posts: 614
Location: South Jersey
Not sure where you boat, but I replaced mine on our 248 when I bought it. It was due for another right before I sold her, 6 years later. I flushed religiously because we boat in saltwater. They do wear out over time and at $150 (ish) for a new one, it was money well spent. You could replace it and diagnose the old in the meantime.

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2016 Robalo R200 w/Yahama 200!

Previous boats:
2003 Four Winns 248 Vista - sold
1994 Sunbird Corsair 200 - sold
1980 Checkmate Predictor - sold


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:18 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:19 pm
Posts: 5
Had same issue last year. Was the bearing seal behind the pump. Caused water to slowly drip out of the weep hole and get flung around engine compartment by the belt. 10$ for the part and prob take ya and hour to fix.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 11:33 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:37 pm
Posts: 31
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
It was the shaft seal; unfortunately, I think the water getting past the seal has fouled the bearing as well - something I was hoping to avoid. That means that I need to either rebuild the pump with a new bearing ($50), send it out to a rebuild service ($150), or purchase a new pump ($300+).

All for the fault of a $12 seal that is easily accessible when changing the impeller! Why isn't this listed as a routine wear/replacement item? It should be! For all those who do their own impeller replacement, do yourself a favor, and purchase the Shaft Seal (part #827247) for $12 and replace it every couple of impeller replacements. The only additional tool you'll need is a hook to remove the old one; the new one just presses in with your fingers.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 7:56 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Craig-o wrote:
It was the shaft seal; unfortunately, I think the water getting past the seal has fouled the bearing as well - something I was hoping to avoid. That means that I need to either rebuild the pump with a new bearing ($50), send it out to a rebuild service ($150), or purchase a new pump ($300+).

All for the fault of a $12 seal that is easily accessible when changing the impeller! Why isn't this listed as a routine wear/replacement item? It should be! For all those who do their own impeller replacement, do yourself a favor, and purchase the Shaft Seal (part #827247) for $12 and replace it every couple of impeller replacements. The only additional tool you'll need is a hook to remove the old one; the new one just presses in with your fingers.

Yes, a new seal would save a lot of headache later. I think every 5-7 years would be sufficient.

In rebuilding my pump, I paid $55 for a SST bearing, but the one from Volvo Penta was a steel bearing. A steel bearing would probably be available for less than $20. The seal is easy to replace. The bearing is a lot more work:
http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=12060

_________________
Image
"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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