The shifter rattle is really just the lever that you need to pull up on before you can push the control into gear. I’m sure I can stop it somehow, but haven’t gotten enough seat time to think about it. I’m pretty sure it would have been the same if the sub was mound a few inches in any direction.
As for the wiring, that was relatively straight forward. I ran a 12’ RCA cable with the remote turn wire from inside the storage compartment. I was able to pick it up by reaching under the floor while lying inside the storage locker in the floor. Then I just pushed it the rest of the way to the radio. Your radio might be at the helm which would make it a lot easer. On my 230/240 there was plenty of room, especially once I cut the hole for the sub. The power and ground (10 gauge strand wire from the Home Depot) I ran by zip tying to the steering cable. The ground I ran straight to the battery. The power wire I ran to the battery switch and attached to the same terminal as the cable to the starter for the engine. I also put a 30 amp fuse just off the battery switch to protect the circuit (got the fuse and holder at West Marine). I kind of like doing projects like this so I took my time and planned it out. Depending on how I feel next spring I might add another amp and upgrade the rest of the speakers, but it really doesn’t need it. Its just one of these things you can get carried away with.
Also, it was cheaper then I expected. I get the amp and sub for about $175. Below is the website I purchased from. I was a little skeptical at first but turned out to be excellent service. The package was delivered within three days from TX to NY with no special charges.
Tim
http://audiovideodimension.com/
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2004 230H 5.7 Gi DP - SOLD!